Nailing down a squeak-free floor; eco-benefits of copper pipes
Q. When I removed an old wall-to-wall carpet, I discovered 3/4-inch plywood as a subfloor. I am putting in hardwood tongued-and-grooved boards. The installer suggested the boards go at right angles to the joists under the plywood so the nails will go into the joists for a squeak-proof job. Is that acceptable? My wife would like the boards to go the other way.
STANLEY KAPLAN, Byfield
A. It is not only acceptable, it is the proper way. With boards that go at right angles to the joists it will allow them to lie better and nails can be nailed into the joists, which will make the floor squeak-proof for 20 or more years.
The boards could be laid the other way, but squeaks will appear much sooner than 20 years because nails will be driven into the thinner plywood.
Q. I have to replace 10 feet of water supply pipe in my house. The plumber suggested I use a plastic pipe called Aquapex. Is that OK? I am partial to copper, but I want to put in whatever is environmentally friendly.
NEEDS PIPE
A. I am sure the plastic pipe is acceptable, perhaps even superior to copper. But the plastic is probably made from oil, and probably more oil was used to form it into pipe form than was used to manufacture the copper. Therefore I'd use the copper.
Q. I had no problem with the double-hung windows on my 100-year-old house, until a contractor removed and replaced outside storms after a complete paint job. Now I have a steady stream of rainwater coming through windows in front of the house, leaving puddles on the windowsills. What is wrong and how can I fix it?
DEB, West Roxbury
A. First, I must assume the leaks are through the storms. Since Deb's letter is without a return address, I am going to assume just that.
There are two things that can be wrong. The contractor may not have caulked the storm window frames before putting the storms back up. Storm windows must be caulked where they contact the wood casing they are secured to, otherwise they will leak both air and water. If this is the case, I suggest you get on the contractor like ugly on an ape to do it right.
The second possibility is that the storm sash, the movable sashes inserted in the storm frame, were put back wrong. The top sash of a storm window goes on the outer groove of the frame; the bottom sash goes on the inner groove. (The screen sash goes in the third inner groove.) It's the same with all double-hung windows, and makes them air- and watertight. If the sash were put in the other way, the check rail (where the two sashes meet) will allow rain, snow, and air to pour in willy-nilly, and wet the sills. Don't think it hasn't happened. If this is the case, it's time to get on the contractor - again.
Q. My washing machine really rocks and rolls on the spin cycle; it shakes the house. How can I get it to behave? Also, the glazing putty on the sidelights of my front entry is in good shape, but inside there is a gap between the glass and the wood frame. Can I fill that gap, or what?
LESLIE FISHER, Concord
A. Put the machine on a half-inch semi-hard pad, or on four small square pads. Make sure the machine is level, and also that each leg or foot is in solid contact with its pad, giving the galloping machine no chance to rock and roll.
As for the sidelights, at least they are not leaking air or water. What happened: When the glass was installed, a layer of bedding putty was first applied to the border of the frame opening. When the glass is pressed into that bedding putty, it makes a good seal. But that did not happen. Too much bedding putty was applied, so when the glass was applied, it was not pressed in enough, leaving that gap. Fill it with glazing compound and no one will know the difference.
Q. My sliders are getting harder and harder to open. They have a lot of congealed grease at the bottom, where they glide. How can I loosen them up?
JEFF
A. The grease is probably cold, and that makes it even harder to move the sliders. If nothing else is wrong, dissolve the grease with paint thinner, and clean out the rails thoroughly. Then rub the rails with candle wax.
Singer belt, anyone?
It's amazing how so many readers often aid the handyman and other people who need help. It's a positive reflection on the goodness of people. This time the readers came to the rescue of a reader who was having trouble finding a leather belt for her antique pedal-powered Singer sewing machine. The handyman had offered a couple of ideas, but here are some others:
E-mailed by Peggy Rose: "Regarding the question in this morning's Globe, I found a belt for my antique (ca. 1927) treadle machine at Sears about 10 years ago. Perhaps they still may have one?"
From E.P. Bowers of Holbrook: "I was searching for a bobbin winder belt for my 55-year-old Singer sewing machine with no success until I found the Pembroke Sewing Center, which specializes in Singer parts and accessories. I suggest that your reader may find what she requires there. The shop is in Anderson Plaza, Route 139, in Pembroke. The phone number is 781-826-3318."
Virgina Emerson e-mailed: "For leather belts for old sewing machines, I suggest Reliable Sewing Machine, 378 Page St., Stoughton 02072, 781-341-3991. They are cut to fit and the ends held together with a large wire 'staple.' They will mail them."
Thank you all, especially Virginia Emerson, who has a special need for sewing machines, because she is assistant costume director for the Huntington Theatre Company. The handyman is impressed.
The Globe Handyman on Call also appears in the Sunday Real Estate Section. Peter Hotton is available 1-6 p.m. Tuesdays to answer questions on house repair. Call 617-929-2930. Hotton also chats on line about house matters 2-3 p.m. Thursdays. To participate, go to Boston.com. Hotton's e-mail is photton@globe.com.
