Saving termite-damaged wood is possible

JOHN, in Hotton's chat room

A. If the wood is not too far gone, in which case it must be replaced, you can fill the voids with an epoxy wood rot filler. If the holes do not go all the way through a beam, dig out the damaged wood, apply a wood hardener in the opening, then fill with the epoxy There are two good epoxy fillers, one is Bondo; the other is a wood rot filler made by Minwax, which is more stable than Bondo. The filler will fill the gaps very nicely with a very hard material that can be painted. Don't make up too much at a time; the stuff sets up within minutes, and I have been caught with the plastic stirrer frozen in the hardened epoxy.

Q. Ten years ago we installed new double-glazed windows and kept the storm windows on as well, knowing the winters in Minnesota are severe. But now in winter, moisture appears on the inside of the storms, and the whole window turns into frost and ice. Why is that occurring, and how can I reduce it. I am afraid the melting ice running on to the sill between the storm and main window will decay that sill, although that sill is aluminum-clad.

FRANCES MANDERSON, St. Paul

A. The storms iced up for one or two reasons. One, the main window leaked moist indoor air into the space between the windows and the moisture condensed on the inside of the storm. Check to see if the main window is not leaking air through an opening. Also, check the weepholes in the aluminum sill at the bottom of the storm. These must be open to allow water vapor to escape outdoors, and also to allow any dripping water to seep through them.

Two, sometimes the storm window is in the wrong position. A storm, like any double-hung window, has the upper sash on the outer side of the frame, and the bottom sash on the inner side. If this is reversed, the storm will not seal correctly and will take in cold air, snow, and rain. Perhaps this occurred when you raised the screen sash and lowered the bottom storm sash.

Q. I am trying to remove three layers of wallpaper from my first house, a 100-year-old two-family. The first two layers came off easily, but the third is painted, and a disaster. I scored the paper as instructed, but still the pieces come off in tiny shards. What am I doing wrong? It's only the front hall, and I am about to give up.

ERIC MAXSON, East Boston

A. You are dong nothing wrong, but simply not enough of the right thing. Score the paper more. Try pulling the teeth of a hand saw down the paper, making lots of score marks at a time. And rent a steamer, which works better because it uses less water. And, in the other rooms, why not take off the first two layers, but leave the layer of painted paper? If it is in good shape you can repaint it. Or, size it and put on your favorite paper.

Q. We have nice patio furniture - wood tops and powder-coated aluminum frames. We masked the aluminum with tape before staining the tops. It was a while before we removed the tape, but it left a residue. We tried Goo Gone with limited success. We also tried an oven cleaner, but it left little spots, as if was rained on. What else can we do?

RACHEL

A. The longer tape is left on anything the harder it is to take off. If the Goo Gone helped a little, keep doing it. If all else fails, try rubbing the aluminum with a wet Brillo pad, lightly and carefully, although the powder coat will resist some abrasion. You might also check with the manufacturer of the furniture. (Rachel called back a little concerned about using Brillo. It still is OK to use Brillo lightly, but for another cleaner, try Oops, Goof Off, or any citrus-based cleaner.)

Q. Our oak floors have two coats of oil-modified polyurethane varnish. We bought a Shark, a steam mop. We know it is good for vinyl and ceramic tile, but can we use it on those floors? The instructions said it can be used on any sealed hard floor.

TOWN DWELLER

A. Huh? On any sealed hard floor? What does that mean? I have to admit ignorance, but that instruction does not make sense. What hard surface? Glazed ceramic tile is a hard surface, but does it need sealing? Of course not. And it certainly does not, nor should it mean wood. So it boils down to this: Do not use it on that varnished floor. Very little water should be used on any varnished wood. A wet Swiffer is okay, but use as little water as possible.

Globe Handyman on Call Peter Hotton is also in the g section on Thursdays. He is available 1-6 p.m. Tuesdays to answer questions on house repair. Call 617-929-2930. Hotton also chats online about house matters 2-3 p.m. Thursdays. To participate, go to www.Boston.com. Hotton's email is photton@globe.com