Out of their closet

Lesbian chic. The two words are not meant to evoke snickers. It's time they belong together, says Ilene Chaiken, executive producer of "The L Word," a steamy Showtime series about a mostly lesbian group of women in Los Angeles.

Chaiken is hoping her program -- which wraps up its first season April 11 -- picks up where "Sex and the City" left off in terms of Sunday night fashion ogling on television. And so over the last week she's been busy interviewing stylists who would dress the characters when the second season begins airing in 2005, simultaneously changing the stereotype of lesbians as "women in comfortable shoes."

"I'm hoping to notch up the look of the show and put a heavier emphasis on fashion," Chaiken says over the phone. "But I want it to be real."

It's an interesting statement. Chaiken, a lesbian herself, says "Sex and the City" fashions were fantasy-driven. But she also admits that the only real grief she's gotten about "The L Word" has been from lesbians who believe the women on the show are just a little too lipstick and not quite "butch" enough.

"They're too pretty. Don't make us so pretty," Chaiken says her critics are pleading. On the other hand, "We've gotten credit for busting stereotypes, because the stereotype of the lesbian is not of a beautiful, fabulous, fashionable woman."

So what is lesbian chic?

It may be a distinctly LA concept involving slim tank tops, great jewelry, just-right jeans, and some quirky vintage element.

"They have a look going on that pulls a little bit more from male fashion, fringe elements. You might find a little more leather, interesting applications of big biker boots, something like that," Chaiken says.

It's sort of like how Ellen DeGeneres can wear a T-shirt, a cashmere sweater, a Helmut Lang pantsuit, and a pair of Pumas, and look completely hip. It's accessible and friendly, with a bit of an edge.

"When I've been to or had big parties, the straight women always look at the lesbians and say things like, `I wish I was a lesbian.' . . . There's a tribal quality about these women. They look good, and they look confident, and they look strong. I think what straight women get is, `I'd love to be that strong and that self-defined.' "

Chaiken says the characters' fashion will evolve in next season's series. For example, Bette, played by Jennifer Beals, might loosen up her suit wardrobe as her relationship with her partner is further revealed.

OK, but what about the shoes?

"I think," Chaiken says, "you'll see a few high heels."