The shape of things that were
'70s staples take another turn on Fashion Week catwalks
NEW YORK - Is that the not-so-gentle scent of
Even if it didn't smell like the must-have fragrance of the 1970s, it was starting to look like the era when Diana Ross strutted about in wide-leg glamour suits and asked the question "Do you know where you're going to?" as Anthony Perkins snapped her photo. After seasons of shapeless mini-sacks, designers are unveiling spring/sum- mer '08 collections at Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week that demonstrate a renewed love affair with the female form - and a return to the feminine side of the 1970s.
Designers such as Jenni Kayne, Carlos Miele, and Tracy Reese showed collections that included a '70s staple: The maxidress. Even Max Azria, which championed the minidress now favored by Hollywood starlets, showed dresses yesterday with hemlines plunging below the knee, as Nicole Richie looked on from the front row. Yes, there was the occasional minidress. But most of the collection focused on sophisticated, form-fitting, cream silk three-quarter dresses that showed less leg than in years past.
Also yesterday, Tracy Reese went back to the 1920s - via the 1970s - for a collection that was heavy on high-waisted sailor pants and palazzo pants. Reese said the inspiration for her collection was the romance of North Africa, but it looked more like the Hamptons circa the bicentennial. The wide legs were paired with smart blazers, and, in a nod to Jodie Foster in "Taxi Driver," wide-brimmed hats. Reese even included the ultimate '70s frock, the caftan, pairing hers with a bikini.
On Wednesday, Jenni Kayne also channeled the 1970s through the 1920s, and showed dresses that included a stunning blue-and-white print gown that could have been comfortably worn by Helen Reddy 30 years ago, yet still looked very modern. Many of these looks are decidedly tropical and summery, a feeling that was nearly absent in spring/summer 2007 clothes.
Not only was the music tropical at Carlos Miele's show on Wednesday - his entire collection was inspired by an album recorded by Frank Sinatra and Tom Jobim - but the clothes reflected the Brazilian heat, with print chiffon gowns that paired with pewter sandals. Miele was a bit fussy on some of the details, to the point where a few gowns looked like castoffs from Charo's last tour. But it was a welcome change to see summery, flowing gowns coming down the catwalk.
It was Badgley Mischka's maxidresses and wrap-print taffetas that recalled the best that the era had to offer. The duo's models looked downright relaxed and refreshed as they walked the runway, as if they were off to attend some perfect beach party with a fountain of mojitos and a soundtrack by Roberta Flack.
Christopher Muther can be reached at muther@globe.com.
