Follow your nose south

Move over, Napa. Take a hike, Alsace. Just a hop, skip, and a short drive from Providence and the mansions of Newport, three small Rhode Island vineyards are carving out their own unique identities in the world of wine.

Set along the Southeast coastline, where the Gulf Stream warms the Atlantic in summer and fall, these three vineyards are part of the Southeastern New England Wine Growing Appellation (fancy term for grape-growing region) that extends from the Massachusetts' Cape and Islands to parts of coastal Connecticut.

Compared by some to the great wine regions in the maritime climates of Northern Europe, these verdant fields cooled by ocean breezes are perfectly suited for growing varietals (fancy term for wines made from one variety of grape) such as chardonnay, gewurztraminer, and cabernet franc, and hybrids such as vidal blanc.

But don't let all the fancy terms scare you away. If you don't know a pinot noir from a pinto bean and think a hybrid is something to drive, you can still have a grand old time at these wineries. All three offer tours to show how grapes are harvested and processed to make wine. You can also participate in a tasting and sample a selection of whites, rosés, reds, sweet dessert, and sparkling wines.

So take a day (or two or three) and pack a picnic, take a tour, and sample some wines. Why? It's fun and you might even learn something. Wine hopping in Rhode Island: The perfect summer sport.

SAKONNET VINEYARDS

Down the road a stretch from the beaches of Little Compton, Sakonnet Vineyards plants grapes on approximately 50 acres of its sprawling 125-acre property. While the rural setting lends itself to lazy contemplations about harvesting the fruits of the earth, the friendly and efficient staff works hard to maximize your education and enjoyment of fine wines.

In the hospitality center, a square slate and bluestone bar is a welcoming spot for tasting wine. Before touring the facilities, a small theater shows a15-minute film, "A Year in the Vineyards," which offers a glimpse of farm life from snow-covered fields through spring thaw to harvest time.

Outside, cafe tables overlook a manicured lawn with vineyards in the distance. New this year, the Coop Café offers unusual pizzas, salads, and sandwiches invented by chef Julie Williamson, including a bologna and Havarti melt on a brioche bun and her popular crispy cod Reuben.

On a sparkling recent Sunday afternoon, Candace Greene and John Andrade of Rehoboth had finished the tour and tasting and settled at a table in the shade with a bottle of Gewurztraminer and crackers with cheese.

"We're doing some day trips this summer," Greene said. "We've never been here before. It's a hidden treasure."

Speaking of treasures, Tiverton native Elaine Bernier took over as winemaker in 2005, after serving as assistant for 10 years. One of the new blends she's added to their collection this summer is "Cock of the Walk," an old English term to imply the wine has attitude. (Vineyard owner Susan Samson chose the name.)

Bernier, whose grandfather's dairy farm is close by, is more humble than cocky. "I'm just a caretaker for Mother Nature," she said.

NEWPORT VINEYARDS

You might not expect to see a winery on a main road only 10 minutes from downtown Newport, but that's where you'll find the aptly named Newport Vineyards. Turn into a strip -mall off Route 138; drive past a restaurant, bakery, real estate office, toy store, and voila! At the far end of the parking lot, abutting fields of grape vines, you'll find the retail shop (with wine, accessories, clothing, and gourmet foods), production facilities, and a tasting tent.

Brothers Paul and John Nunes grow many varieties of grapes on their 50-acre vineyard, on preserved farmland originally purchased by their great-grandfather in 1917. Their connection to the land may be old, but their winemaking facilities are modern.

Retired microbiologist Susan Walker now works for the winery and gives a zippy, informative tour that puts the science of winemaking into terms the layperson can easily understand. In the tasting tent, which looks out across the vineyards, she explained that ice wine is harvested after the third hard frost and responded to a question about the term "off-dry."

"Off-dry means sweet. Except you can never say sweet in the wine world, unless you're talking about dessert wines," said Walker.

Marblehead residents Victoria and Michael Goldstein were enjoying Walker's expertise. This was their first time at a vineyard wine tasting: "We always wanted to do it. It's a great deal," said Michael. "You get a tour and get to taste all these wines. It's like the good old times."

His two kids, ages 8 and 12, were having a good time themselves in the corner of the tent, tossing crackers high in the air and catching them in their mouths.

GREENVALE VINEYARDS

A sun-dappled road ambles past hand-built stone walls and open fields before dipping toward the Sakonnet River and the idyllic grounds of Greenvale Vineyards. You might feel as if you're visiting a 19th-century estate of a Victorian gentleman farmer, and you'd be right. The property, originally a livestock farm, has been in the same family since 1863 and is listed on both the Rhode Island and national registers of historic places.

With encouragement from Sakonnet Vineyards, Nancy Parker Wilson and her family began planting grapes in the early 1980 s, and in 10 years opened their own 24-acre vineyard. The vineyard's 100-percent, estate-grown fruit is all harvested by hand.

"I was going to be the first female mayor of Boston. Then my dad called and said he needed help to start a vineyard," said Wilson, who headed the South End's Landmark Commission for 10 years.

"The soil is terrific here. In the 18th century, this area was referred to as the 'Eden of America,' " Wilson said. "It was the peach-growing capital of the Colonial states."

Saturday afternoons are the busiest at the vineyard, with live jazz by local musicians.

"It's very casual, seeing as our tasting room is a stable," said Joseph Hewes as he poured wine one recent day.

Calling it a stable might be an understatement, as the restored tasting room, originally designed by noted Boston architect John Hubbard Sturgis in 1863, has a grander exterior than many homes.

The lush grounds around the stables and the gently sloping vineyards, offering views of the Sakonnet River, are wonderful antidotes to the hassles of city life.

"We encourage people to pack a picnic," Hewes said. "Kick off your shoes! It's a really nice way to spend a summer day."