Best of the New: Restaurants
Aujourd'hui
Refurbished and outfitted with a smashing new bar, Aujourd'hui in the Four Seasons Hotel might be expected to rest on its ever-so-fancy fine-dining laurels. But instead, last June, the chain retooled the dining concept as well, bringing to Boston a young chef de cuisine, Jerome Legras, whose modern French style invigorates the city's dining landscape. He mixes influences from a stint in Tokyo as well as time in Paris to rachet up flavor levels and play with textures in most delightful ways. Meticulous service and a flowered and flounced decor add to the luxe. In an era of rampant casualness, it's nice to know there's still a restaurant worth dressing up for. Four Seasons Hotel, 200 Boylston Street, Boston, 617-351-2071
B. Good
When two childhood friends decided to open a fast-food joint with a healthy twist, they did it just right. At this cafeteria-style eatery, the burgers are the real draw, with plenty of topping options, but the vegetarian offerings and salads are mighty tasty. We recommend the Asian chicken salad, and the oven-baked fries are worth going back for. Nutritional information is available for each menu item so you can indulge guilt-free. A Harvard Square location is planned to open later this year. 131 Dartmouth Street, Boston, 617-424-5252; www.bgood.com
Channel Cafe
This cafe on the ground floor of a refurbished 19th-century warehouse serves three meals daily, bringing Fort Point neighborhood residents and artists together in an inviting, unpretentiously hip space. Owner Ana Crowley, a painter and ceramist, expanded weekday hours into dinner in April, with such offerings as sauteed half-chicken and garlicky sauteed spinach. A meal in this artsy atrium, surrounded on two sides by galleries and on a third with a sea wall of granite boulders, is inspiring. And in November, local artist Jeff Smith installed a new bar fashioned out of reclaimed wood. It rolls on four giant casters. 300 Summer Street, South Boston, 617-426-0695
Duckworth's Bistrot
Even a quiet neighborhood needs a bistro, and if it sports a young veteran of the venerable Maison Robert, so much the better. At Duckworth's Bistrot, open since October, chef/owner Ken Duckworth creates vibrant dishes firmly grounded in French technique. He piles the fruits of Gloucester's fishing heritage into a rich-sauced dish topped with puff pastry, braises lamb shanks with tiny green lentils, or simply grills beef tenderloin. Half portions and an imaginative wine menu with many by the glass could even lure some city folk to Cape Ann. 197 East Main Street, Gloucester, 978-282-4426; www.duckworthsbistrot.com
Green Field Churrascaria
This spacious Brazilian restaurant is an Atkins dieters' dream come true. Green Field is a rodizio, a Brazilian eatery where staff walk from table to table, presenting different cuts of meat on swordlike skewers, slicing off selected portions right onto your plate. One price ($19.95 for dinner, $9.95 for lunch) covers an all-you-can-eat buffet - stocked with tasty sushi, salad, rice, and fruit - and an endless supply of barbecued meat. 80 Brighton Avenue, Allston, 857-559-9000
Tomasso Trattoria and Enoteca
When Thomas Prince retired early from
Hot Breads
Bangalore. Dubai. Paris. Woburn. Hot Breads bakeries around the world fuse elements of Indian and French fare to lip-smacking effect. "I feel like I'm in India," homesick immigrants muse as they devour fresh-baked buns glazed with butter and stuffed with spicy chickpeas and potatoes. Culinary adventurers from other lands savor new tastes: butter cookies baked with cloves and cardamom, flaky croissants filled with chicken curry, and a fluffy cake, made with roasted almonds and honey, that tastes of caramel. Think globally. Eat locally. 438 Main Street, Woburn, 781-933-7557; www.hotbreads.com
Kiskadee Coffee Co.
Mark Anderson traded bonds for beans when he and brother Derek opened Kiskadee Coffee Co. last May. The 33-year-old worked for Fidelity Investments, and Derek, 27, roasted coffee in Manchester, New Hampshire. They turned a long, narrow space in Plymouth's downtown into a refuge from chain-store sameness. Besides excellent coffee, tea, and other drinks, Kiskadee offers exhibition space for artists, free WiFi service, and live music (including open-mike sessions on Wednesdays). To ensure the freshest brews, beans used in the cafe's blends are roasted every five days or less. The brothers have adopted a simple slogan: "Drink better coffee." Says Derek, "If the Pilgrims had a good dark roast, more of them would have survived that first winter." 18 Main Street, Plymouth, 508-830-1410; www.kiskadeecoffee.com
Mariposa Bakery
The key words at Mariposa Bakery are "homemade" and "delicious," because everything here is both, from the granola to the breads (pretzel, multigrain, potato) and aioli mayonnaise used for the sandwiches. Mariposa is a welcome addition to the ever-funky Central Square. Light and airy from high ceilings and storefront windows, the space is conducive to idling. Sip organic coffee or tea and consider the cornucopia of goodies on display: cranberry-corn muffins, oatmeal-nectarine scones, Venezuelan-chocolate brownies. 424 Massachusetts Avenue, Cambridge, 617-876-6500
Neptune Oyster
The old becomes new in the North End with Neptune Oyster, a sleekly appointed sliver of a place that suggests cutting-edge cool and tradition at the same time. While a shucker opens oysters in the front window, you can sit at the bar and choose from at least 12 varieties of oysters offered daily, listed on the mirrored wall. Or munch on sweet chunks of lobster piled on a buttery bun, a hearty bowl of cioppino, or roasted salmon with crispy duck confit. All the while, a sculpture of Neptune seems to calmly survey the noisy swirl of revelers. 63 Salem Street, Boston, 617-742-3474
The Kiwi Grille
After several years of hobbits on the big screen, we had enough of New Zealand - until we tasted it in Newburyport. The Kiwi Grille opened last spring in the ultra-quaint waterside community and gave us something beyond the fusion menus that have taken over Boston dining. Dishes include herb-marinated bobwhite quail, a rack of New Zealand lamb, and succulent raw Wellfleet oysters in horseradish lemon mignonette. The restaurant interior is South End-posh with kiwi artwork and a friendly down-under wait staff. Perfect for dates. Who knew Middle Earth was so sweet? 26 Green Street, Newburyport, 978-463-5494
Lure
With its stellar location overlooking the 3-mile expanse of South Beach, the Winnetu Inn & Resort and its restaurant, Lure, already have a step up on other dining establishments on Martha's Vineyard. But to truly distance themselves, they needed someone in the kitchen with an impressive resume and skills. Enter Ed Gannon, former executive chef of Aujourd'hui in Boston. Gannon's been at the helm since Lure opened last April. The muted blue hues and bamboo floors are about as far from the formal dining of Aujourd'hui as one can get. But thankfully, Gannon's philosophy remains the same, relying on just-caught seafood and simple sauces to bring out the taste. An added bonus is a long stroll on the sand to work off that lobster, swordfish, or halibut. 31 Dunes Road, Edgartown, Martha's Vineyard, 508-627-3663; www.winnetu.com
The Metropolitan Club
Boston can't seem to get enough steakhouses, and now the suburbs can't either. If red meat is what you crave, the Metropolitan Club, not far from Capital Grille on Boylston street in Chestnut Hill, offers the classic genre with some twists. Open since November, this sleek newcomer with a spacious bar, beautiful furnishings, and cozy fireplaces boasts chef Jeffrey Fournier, who adds unusual dishes such as watermelon seared like steak and topped with feta. The little details - careful service, flavorful sauces, and well-made salads - increase the enjoyment. And dessert ranges far beyond the usual slab of cheesecake to include some imaginative tarts and cakes. 1210 Boylston Street, Chestnut Hill, 617-731-0600
Piattini Wine Bar
Call it decanting. After years of success with its tiny 34-seat space on Newbury Street, Piattini Wine Bar opened a spot in November that can handle three times that many. Here, where the South End meets Park Square, the concept - small Italian plates and dozens of wines by the glass - can truly breathe. We already have a favorite dish: panzarotti, crispy dumplings made of porcini mushrooms and fontina cheese. And we're still happily working on nailing down that favorite wine. Our only wish: that the sound-dampening panels we heard about arrive soon. With all those folks buzzing about what's on their plates and in their glasses, Piattini can get downright cacophonous. Of course, there are worse problems. 162 Columbus Avenue, Boston, 617-423-2021; www.piattini.com
Pierrot Bistrot Francais
Luckily for those who like their French unadulterated, Pierrot Bistrot threw open its doors in September. Here the house pate comes in chunky slabs served with thin slices of baguette, mustard, olives, and cornichons. Boeuf bourgignon looks humble and tastes deeply meaty. Bouillabaisse is replete with seafood in a flavorful broth. Even pigs' feet salad - satiny, jellied cubes of pork over mixed greens - is a crowd-pleaser, says owner Pierre Sosnitsky. The cozy little room at the foot of Beacon Hill with its rough brick walls and tiny tables will remind you of France circa 1955, complete with the voice of Edith Piaf warbling over the sound system. And the mostly French wine list, not to mention the profiteroles with chocolate sauce, rounds out the motif. 272 Cambridge Street, Boston, 617-725-8855; www.pierrotbistrot.com
Pomodoro
The tiny Pomodoro in the North End has its own captivated audience. In December, Brookline residents and their neighbors got their own rustic, reasonably priced Italian rendezvous spot. A veal chop with lemon risotto will make you resistant to sharing, and a pork roast, though not detectably Italian, is delectably tender. Hearty olives in oil and toothsome breads make fine starters with a first-rate gin martini. Don't be surprised if restaurateur Siobhan Carew sends free chocolate mousse to your table (and no, it doesn't just happen to suspected reviewers). It seems as if Carew wants to throw a party every night in this homey room and doesn't like to see food go to waste. Cash only, but for a small place it conveniently takes reservations. 24 Harvard Street, Brookline Village, 617-566-4455
Sibling Rivalry
Every year has a big act - the restaurant opening that sets tongues wagging and reservations lines buzzing. Sibling Rivalry captured the 2004 prize. With the ambience of a beautiful living room nestled in the bottom of the South End's newest star residence, Atelier 505, the restaurant, which opened in October, matches style to substance. Two chef brothers, Bob and David Kinkead, do competing culinary riffs on ingredients, and though the concept makes for some initial confusion, that's smoothed over by great cooking by David Kinkead, the chef in residence. By the time you try David's sumptuous lacquered duck with chestnuts and port, Bob's salad of duck confit with apple and Roquefort, or one of the 11 other duels, you're a convert. 525 Tremont Street, Boston, 617-338-5338
The Spot Cafe
It's all about the bread at this delectable French boulangerie. Whether enfolding pastrami, tuna, or grilled cheese, the bread is what sets this place apart. Light sandwiches, country-style soups, and fabulous desserts leave something for everyone. For breakfast, the pancakes and French toast are scrumptious and hearty. The atmosphere is sweet and cozy, the place perfect for lingering. No matter what, don't leave before stocking up on the fresh baguettes, mini rolls, and ciabatta. 385 Main Street, Watertown, 617-923-2339
Tamarind Bay
If you're looking for the party, it's down the street at the Bombay Club. If you're looking for an inventive, sophisticated meal that may make you wonder if you knew anything about Indian food at all, then put Tamarind Bay on your list. In July, chef WaliAhmad left India and a popular cooking show to bring us lobster curry and green banana dumplings in this subterranean spot in Harvard Square. But forget your basement-level expectations, because this is no one-sauce-fits-all operation, and there's not a vindaloo or biryani to be found. All the dishes are prepared with their own sauces, and many of them, like bhindi adraki, spiced okra cooked in ginger and onion, will please vegetarians. 75 Winthrop Street, Harvard Square, Cambridge, 617-491-4552
Tryst
If Arlington is the new Cambridge, will Tryst be the new Rialto? Owner and chef Paul Turano came here from Canton, where he owns the tiny Olio, to make a splashier presence this past fall. The space isn't cozy, so it's not ideal for a dalliance. Turano is a serious cook whose cuisine falls somewhere between early Todd English and late hotel. Ingredients are top quality, sauces intense, garnishes abundant. A beautifully grilled duck breast on roasted roots with wilted greens did not need potato gnocchi. A little editing, more banquettes, and Turano may draw the 02138 crowd. 689 Massachusetts Avenue, Arlington, 781-641-2227; www.trystrestaurant.com
West on Centre
West Roxbury was ready to embrace this sleek, 80-seat pub and restaurant when it opened in June, but to call West on Centre a neighborhood pub misses the point. With an elegant, simple menu and alert, attentive service, the latest addition to Michael Conlan's stable of restaurants casts a wider net. Yes, the eatery serves fish and chips and burgers, but pan-fried haddock with clams and bacon and crisp roast chicken in a robust pan sauce compete ably for diners' attention. All are reasonably priced. The kitchen faces a long chef's table where singles and pairs can chat and share a meal; the horseshoe-shaped bar and fireplace serve as the bar side's main attractions. 1732 Centre Street, West Roxbury, 617-323-4199
Pie High: The hottest new pizza places employ inventive toppings like lobster and fried eggs.
Za
Finally, an upscale pizzeria that churns out bona fide pies. Created by EVOO's Peter McCarthy, Za offers a limited menu - pizza and salads are it - but the offerings are unique and flavorful. How could we argue with the diced and mashed potato pie coupled with bacon, onion, and Gruyere? Make your own is also an option. Salads are inventive but hearty; one pairs beets, oranges, toasted hazelnuts, and goat cheese. It's take out or eat in, with an inviting and casual dining room and an accommodating staff. 138 Massachusetts Avenue, Arlington, 781-316-2334
Croma
No prices on the menu at this sleek, mod-inspired Newbury Street spot are outrageous, which is what the thin-crust, specialty pizzeria revival is all about. The outrageousness is in the combinations of toppings, which include Peking duck, scallions, and hoisin sauce, or bacon, sausage, mozzarella, and an egg, sunny-side up. All they have is salad, pizza, and pasta, you say? Look at the array of choices, we say, pointing to a fine eggplant parmesan and a seafood cannelloni with lobster, scallops, and shrimp in a sherry cream sauce. The wine list is long and international. The owners, friends who met while golfing, opened Croma in May, just in time for the outdoor patio diners to find it and fall for it. 269 Newbury Street, Back Bay, 617-247-3200; www.cromaboston.com
The following writers contributed to the "Best of the New" reports: Naomi Aoki, Alison Arnett, Carol Beggy, Chris Berdik, Karen Campbell, Robert Campbell, Monica Collins, Michelle Bates Deakin, Peter DeMarco, Geoff Edgers, Anthony Flint, Catherine Foster, Jan Gardner, Joshua Glenn, Meredith Goldstein, Ken Gordon, Amy Graves, Patrick Gerard Healy, Stephen Jermanok, Sheryl Julian, Patrick Kennedy, Doug Most, Kimberly Moy, Charles P. Pierce, Mark Pothier, James Reed, Bridget Samburg, Shira Springer, Lise Stern, Rachel Strutt, Tina Sutton, Emily Sweeney, Rachel Travers, and Joe Yonan. Send e-mails to magazine@globe.com.
