Something on the Side

Every simple main course tastes better with a little condiment. Carve the breast meat off a whole roast chicken or set a piece of grilled fish on the plate, then turn it into a meal to relish by spooning something saucy beside it. And keep it simple. We're not suggesting you reduce chicken stock to a syrupy drizzle or whisk a pan of buttery beurre blanc. Tastes from the garden, like a velvety dollop of pesto or roasted pepper puree, give even the plainest entree a savory lift; indeed, the condiments are aromatic and flavorful enough to eat with nothing more than a round of crusty bread.

On weekend mornings, liven up an unadorned omelet by spreading roasted peppers on toast the same way you would marmalade. Lunch sandwiches, whatever their filling, will have more spark with a layer of pickled red onions. On nights when steaks are on the menu, garnish the plates with the vinegary onion slices and the peppers. If leg of lamb is the plat du jour, squeeze the sweet pulp from a head of roasted garlic and spread it on the meat before cooking. For a vegetarian supper, toss the soft, creamy cloves with pasta and herbs.

Condiments should have a piquant quality - a sharp but agreeable flavor that's intense in an addictive way. You'll find yourself craving plain food just so you can add a little relish to the plate.

ROASTED GARLIC
MAKES 1 WHOLE HEAD

1 head garlic, halved horizontally
Olive oil (for sprinkling)

Set the oven at 350 degrees. In a small baking dish, place the halves of the head of garlic, cut sides down. Sprinkle them lightly with oil.

Roast the garlic for 45 minutes. Set the halves aside to cool.

Squeeze the garlic out of its skin into a container. Refrigerate for up to 5 days until ready to use.

ROASTED GARLIC AND BASIL PESTO
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

1/2 cup slivered almonds
2 bunches fresh basil, leaves removed from stems
4 cloves roasted garlic (see recipe above)
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/2 cup olive oil
3/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Set the oven at 375 degrees. Place the almonds on a baking sheet. Roast them for 8 to 10 minutes, tossing occasionally, or until they turn golden brown. Remove them from the oven and set aside to cool.

Fill a large bowl with ice water. Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Add the basil leaves and blanch them for 10 seconds. Drain the leaves in a colander and transfer them to the ice water. When they are cold, drain them again. With your hands, squeeze the excess liquid from the leaves.

In a food processor, combine the basil, garlic, salt, and almonds. Pulse the mixture until it is finely chopped.

With the machine running, add the oil through the feed tube in a thin steady stream until the mixture forms a paste. With a rubber spatula, transfer the pesto to a bowl. Stir in the cheese and refrigerate until serving.

Note: To make in advance, do not add the cheese until just before using. To store the pesto, spoon it into a container, cover the surface of the sauce with a very thin layer of olive oil to protect it, then place the lid on the container. Refrigerate for up to 2 weeks or freeze for up to 2 months.

ITALIAN PARSLEY PESTO
MAKES ABOUT 1 1/2 CUPS

1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves removed
2 cloves raw or roasted garlic, crushed (see recipe above)
8 anchovies, coarsely chopped
2 teaspoons capers
Grated rind of 1 lemon
1/4 cup olive oil

Fill a large bowl with ice water. Bring a saucepan of water to a boil. Add the parsley leaves and blanch them for 10 seconds.

Drain the leaves in a colander and transfer them to the ice water. When they are cold, drain them again. With your hands, squeeze the excess liquid from the leaves.

In a food processor, combine the parsley, garlic, anchovies, capers, and lemon rind. Pulse the mixture until it is finely chopped.

With the machine running, add the oil through the feed tube in a thin steady stream until the mixture forms a paste. With a rubber spatula, transfer the pesto to a bowl and refrigerate until serving.

Note: To store the pesto, spoon it into a container, cover the surface of the sauce with a very thin layer of olive oil to protect it, then place the lid on the container. Refrigerate for up to 2 weeks or freeze for up to 2 months.

QUICK PICKLED RED ONIONS
SERVES 4

2 red onions, sliced into thin rings
1/2 cup cider vinegar
3 tablespoons sugar
1 bay leaf
2 sprigs fresh thyme
Salt and pepper, to taste

In a saucepan, combine the onions, vinegar, sugar, bay leaf, 1 sprig of thyme, salt, and pepper.

Bring the mixture to a boil over low heat, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Remove the pan from the heat. Transfer the onion mixture to a heatproof bowl and set aside to cool. Remove the thyme.

Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until cold. Or transfer to a plastic container and store for up to 5 days. Before serving, sprinkle with leaves from the remaining fresh thyme and more pepper. Refrigerate for up to 1 week.

TOMATO EGGPLANT CHUTNEY
SERVES 4

2 medium eggplants (1 pound each), peeled and sliced into 1-inch-thick rounds
1/2 cup olive oil
4 plum tomatoes, cored
2 cloves garlic
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Salt and pepper, to taste
1/4 cup very finely chopped red onion
2 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano
Pinch of sugar

Turn on the broiler. On a large rimmed baking sheet or roasting pan, arrange the eggplant slices in one layer.

Using a pastry brush, brush the slices with 2 tablespoons of the oil. Broil the eggplant about 8 inches from the element, turning once and brushing again with oil, for about 10 minutes or until it is tender and golden at the edges. Set it aside.

Bring a saucepan of water to a boil. Add the tomatoes and count to 10. Lift the tomatoes from the water and transfer to a bowl of cold water. When the tomatoes are cool enough to handle, use a paring knife to peel off the skins. Halve the fruit lengthwise and chop the flesh (the seeds will make the mixture quite juicy).

Transfer the eggplant to a food processor. Add the remaining oil, garlic, lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Pulse to chop it coarsely.

Tip the eggplant mixture into a bowl. Add the tomatoes and their juices, onion, oregano, and sugar. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if you like. Cover and refrigerate for 1 hour for the flavors to mellow. Or transfer to a plastic container and refrigerate for up to 5 days.

ROASTED RED PEPPER PUREE
MAKES ABOUT 1 1/2 CUPS

4 red bell peppers
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 sweet onion, coarsely chopped
1 clove garlic
2 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
Pinch of crushed red pepper
Salt and black pepper, to taste

Turn on the broiler. Core and halve the bell peppers. Remove the seeds and set the peppers, cut sides down, on a rimmed baking sheet.

Broil the peppers about 8 inches from the element, watching them carefully, for 10 minutes or until they are charred and blistered all over. Transfer the peppers to a bowl, cover it with plastic wrap, and set them aside for 20 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a skillet, heat the oil. Cook the onion over medium heat, stirring often, for 10 minutes or until the onion softens. Add the garlic, balsamic vinegar, crushed pepper, salt, and black pepper.

When the peppers are cool, use a paring knife to peel off and discard the charred skins. Transfer the pepper and the onion mixture to a food processor. Pulse the mixture until it is pureed.

Transfer to a bowl, cover, and refrigerate for 1 hour for the flavors to mellow. Or transfer to a plastic container and refrigerate for up to 5 days.

Ask the Cook: Garlic Matters

Many recipes refer to different ways to prepare garlic: chopped, diced, crushed, thinly sliced, left whole and left in, left whole and removed. There are garlic presses and many tools that shred and slice garlic. What type of garlic preparation is best for particular dishes?
PETER FLATO /// Ipswich

Whether it is the first thing one notices or just a gentle tease, garlic announces its presence with authority. The degree of flavor is usually determined by the size of the pieces and the length of cooking time. When finely chopped or smashed into a paste, garlic will surrender the maximum amount of flavor in the shortest period of time. The longer garlic cooks, either sauteed, simmered, or braised, the more mellow the flavor.

Quick sauteed or stir-fried dishes make best use of smaller cuts. Garlic presses are handy for these styles of cooking, although I usually use a cutting board and a knife. (The press, while convenient, must be washed after use.) Note that garlic reduced to such small pieces can easily burn if the cook is not attentive. Overheated garlic will turn bitter and harsh.

Longer cooking methods generally utilize larger pieces of garlic. Braises, stews, even sauces that are eventually strained or pureed don't require any particular cut, and something from the "chopped" category will do the trick. For the true garlic lover, there is nothing like spearing a whole clove that has been gently simmered in a soup, sauce, or even excellent olive oil to put an exclamation point on the palate.

This week's answer is by Peter J. Kelly, chef-instructor at Johnson & Wales University.