A New Take on Old Port

WALK DOWN COMMERCIAL Street in Portland, Maine, and you'll wish you had eyes in the back of your head (just like your third-grade teacher). That's because you'll want to see the bustling waterfront of New England's largest tonnage port and second-largest fishing port while also gazing into the seductive shop windows in the quaint Old Port section of the city. Since you must chose one or the other, the sea may beckon, but - given all the shopping district has to offer - pass on the water and plunge into the stores.

The cobblestone streets of Old Port are a world away from the acres of outlet stores in Kittery and Freeport that have made the Pine Tree State a shopping legend. There is no predicable inventory, the pace is relaxed, and the shopkeepers friendly and attentive. All in all, the prices aren't bad, either.

ASIA WEST at 219 Commercial Street (207-775-0066) has an Indonesian influence, featuring terra-cotta bowls and trays ($8 and up) as well as conversation-piece furniture, like an old satay cart for $3,555. Not looking for things for your home? The shop has antique sarongs ($21) and a counter full of beautiful jewelry, mostly heavy sterling silver, some embellished with turquoise, all at reasonable prices. There is even a rope necklace strung with Indonesian glass beads for just $6.95.

CATWEAR at 399 Fore Street (207-772-2668) is a misleading name, admits owner Catherine Adams. This store is not for felines. For about 10 years, Adams has been designing and making her own clothing - pants, skirts, and indoor/outdoor jackets in five different weights - out of Polar Fleece from Malden Mills in Lawrence. There are about eight different styles in 15 to 20 colors, depending on the season. Prices range from $24 to $125.

FETCH at 195 Commercial Street (207-773-5450) is a good example of Old Port's distinctive style. If you promised to bring something special home for your four-legged friend, this is the place to go. Once inside, it is easy to lose track of time as you choose from among the 30 or so collars ($10 to $40) and as many as 20 sweaters ($35 to $90). There's also a special camaraderie among customers. "Tell me the truth," says one patron to another. "Does your cat really like these peacock feathers?"

FORESIDE COMPANY OUTLET STORE at 235 Commercial Street (207-773-6282) has discount prices (30 percent to 70 percent off retail) on decorative home accessories and furniture. These pieces are mostly hand painted and usually found in pricey boutiques. A green glass vase, originally $40, was selling for $12. Items marked 30 percent off included a showpiece hand-painted wooden sideboard with antique tile insets for $1,068 and an elaborate fireplace screen for $123.

FOUNDRY LANE at 215 Commercial Street (207-773-2722) specializes in contemporary crafts. The shop stocks an ever-changing selection from more than 40 artists of one-of-a-kind and limited-production jewelry, artwork, and decorative home accessories. You'll find a $140 polka-dot teapot from Portland's own Lacey Pots and colorful Xenia Taler ceramic tiles with geometric designs ($19 to $35 each), which will make perfect trivets until the next time you redo your kitchen and incorporate them into the backsplash.

HELENE M. at 425 Fore Street (207-772-2564) is decorated with photos of Audrey Hepburn for good reason. She would look great in this store's clothes, especially the tiered French-blue silk skirt ($188). A Juicy Couture long-sleeve thermal shirt ($98) sports such a beautiful toile design, you would never think to hide it under anything.

J. L. COOMBS at 22 Exchange Street (207-253-5633) was established in 1830, making it the oldest shoe company in the United States. Even Imelda Marcos would be impressed by brands the store carries: French Dressing, Heshung, and THINK, among others. For $99.95, you can snag a pair of Ariat Fatbaby boots that any New Englander would likely love for their wonderfully outrageous winter attitude, played out in colors more suitable for Easter and perched on thick, sensible rubber soles.

LE ROUX KITCHEN at 161 Commercial Street (207-553-7665) is a find for cooks and the hosts that love them. This store has all the basics as well as things like a set of four Messermeister steak knives - elegantly packaged in a wooden box - for $39.95 and Vietnamese bamboo salad bowls in seductive colors like beet red and asparagus green for $9.99 to $19.99.

MAXWELL'S POTTERY OUTLET at 384 Fore Street (207-780-1144) attracts serious collectors from all over the country. The store's owner, Brian Maxwell, sells tens of thousands of pieces from Poland and Italy at 20 percent to 50 percent off retail. He also sells colorful glassware from Mexico and Italy, as well as soaps, candles, and linens. And his staff is extraordinarily friendly.

GRAB A BITE

Shopping can work up one's appetite. And what trip to the Maine coast would be complete without seafood, like a bowl of seafood chowder ($5.95) at THREE DOLLAR DEWEYS RESTAURANT AND ALE HOUSE, 241 Commercial Street (207-772-3310). Turf lovers can try the basic burger ($6.95) with a pint of ale. For dessert, they offer warm, homemade gingerbread smothered in whipped cream ($3.95). Take one last chance to dine outdoors at the PORTLAND LOBSTER CO., 180 Commercial Street (207-775-2112). Of course there is lobster, but the crabmeat roll ($11.95) with a side order of Old Port onion rings ($4.50) comes highly recommended.

GETTING THERE

Unless you plan on hauling big pieces of furniture home - most stores will ship their goods - why drive to Portland on a Saturday or Sunday when you can hop aboard The Downeaster? The Amtrak trains leave Boston's North Station daily starting at 9:45 a.m.; the trip takes about 2 1/2 hours and costs about $21 each way. (You can also board at Woburn or Haverhill.) It's a comfortable ride through pleasant New England scenery with stops along the way in Exeter, Durham, and Dover, New Hampshire, and Wells, Saco, and Old Orchard Beach, Maine. For the return trip, the last train leaves Portland at 6:45 p.m. on weekends, 3:40 p.m. on weekdays. Reservations are required. Call 800-872-7245 or visit www.amtrakdowneaster.com.

Dale Koppel is a freelance writer. E-mail her at dalekoppel@aol.com.