Grain Gain

Traditional rice pilafs (with names like pilav, plov, and pulaw) began with well-washed grains that were then cooked in water. When the liquid had almost evaporated, the rice was steamed for a half-hour longer. The idea was to make every grain separate. In some cultures, pilaf is still made like this. Pots are tinted with saffron, which turns the grains a sunny color; others are mixed with meat, poultry, yogurt, or potatoes. Rice pilaf can be a quicker dish when the grains are stirred into butter, then simmered in chicken stock. The mixture is dressed up with dried fruits and nuts, so the rice looks distinguished, rather than like an afterthought spooned beside the main course. The pilaf method makes other grains shine, so the side of the plate is as inviting as the center.

BASMATI PILAF WITH DRIED FRUIT
SERVES 6

2 cups basmati rice
2 tablespoons butter
1 onion, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
3 1/4 cups chicken stock or water, heated to boiling
Salt and pepper, to taste
1/2 cups livered almonds
1/2 cup dried cranberries
1/2 cup quartered dried apricots
1/2 cup golden raisins
1/4 cup boiling water

In a strainer, rinse the rice under a cold tap. Transfer to a bowl, cover with cold water, and let soak for 30 minutes. Drain into the strainer and set aside.

In a large, heavy-based casserole, melt the butter. Add the onion and cook over medium heat for 12 minutes, stirring often, or until the onion is a light-gold color. Stir in the garlic and cook for 1 minute.

Stir in the rice and cook, stirring often, for 2 minutes. Pour in the stock or water, and add salt and pepper. Cook, stirring, until the liquid returns to a boil. Lower the heat and cover the pan. Simmer for 15 minutes or until the rice is tender and has absorbed the liquid in the pan.

Meanwhile, set the oven at 375 degrees. Spread the almonds on a rimmed baking sheet. Toast them for 8 to 10 minutes or until they are lightly browned. Set them aside.

In a bowl, combine the cranberries, apricots, and raisins. Cover with the 1/4 cup boiling water and set aside for 5 minutes.

Let the rice rest, covered, for 10 minutes.

Strain the fruits. With a fork, fluff the rice and stir in the fruits and almonds. Taste for seasoning, add more salt and pepper, if you like, and serve at once.

BARLEY PILAF WITH AROMATIC VEGETABLES
SERVES 4

2 tablespoons oil
1 Spanish onion, finely chopped
1 large carrot, finely chopped
1 stalk celery, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 cup pearl barley
4 cups water, heated to boiling
Salt and pepper, to taste
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

In a heavy-based casserole, heat the oil. Add the onion, carrot, and celery. Cook over medium heat for 10 minutes, stirring often, or until the vegetables soften. Add the garlic and cook for 1 minute.

Stir in the barley and cook, stirring often, for 2 minutes. Stir in the water and bring the mixture to a boil. Lower the heat, cover the pan, and simmer the barley for 40 to 50 minutes or until it has absorbed all the liquid. The barley should be tender but still have some bite. Add salt, pepper, and parsley. Fluff with a fork and serve at once.

BULGUR PILAF WITH CHICKPEAS
SERVES 6

Bulgur, the coarsely cracked wheat used in Middle Eastern tabbouleh, is sauteed in butter and simmered with chickpeas. Strips of pita bread finish off the dish.

4 tablespoons butter
2 cups coarse bulgur (No. 4 grade at Middle Eastern markets)
Salt and pepper, to taste
3 1/2 cups chicken stock, heated to boiling
1 can (about 15 ounces) chickpeas, drained and rinsed under a cold tap
1 round (6-inch diameter) pita
1 teaspoon vegetable oil, or to taste

In a flameproof casserole, melt the butter. Add the bulgur, salt, and pepper. Cook for 1 minute.

Stir in the stock and chickpeas. Bring the mixture to a boil. Lower the heat, cover the pan, and simmer the bulgur, without stirring, for 25 minutes.

Meanwhile, set the oven at 375 degrees. Cut some of the pita bread into 3-inch-long thin strips (they should resemble slender green beans); then cut some into 1/2-inch pieces so that they are different shapes. Add the oil to the bread and toss with your hands to coat the bread. Add more oil, if needed. The bread should be barely coated.

On a rimmed baking sheet, spread the bread in one layer. Toast the strips for 8 to 10 minutes or until they are lightly golden.

With a fork, fluff the bulgur and chickpea mixture and stir in the toasted pita pieces. Taste for seasoning, add more salt and pepper, if you like, and serve at once.

The recipe for bulgur pilaf is adapted from Zov: Recipes and Memories From the Heart, by Zov Karamardian (Zov's Publishing, 2005).

Ask the Cooks: Solid Reaction

I make a dessert sauce that calls for caramelizing sugar and adding cream first and then chocolate. When I add the cream, the sugar turns into a solid mass that must be slowly dissolved before I can add the chocolate. I've tried different pans, different temperatures, but nothing helps. Fortunately, it's always turned out fine, but the extra step of re-dissolving the sugar is annoying. What am I doing wrong?
Vicki Righettini /// Medford

Most recipes of this type call for equal parts of sugar and water, with a few drops of lemon juice or a little corn syrup to help reduce the formation of sugar crystals. This mixture is boiled until the water evaporates and the color and density change from clear and thin to amber or brown and quite thick. The caramelized sugar reaches extremely high temperatures, between 320 and 350 degrees. This preparation is valued for its deep nutty flavor, rich color, and hard-crack properties when cooled. Liquid added to sugar when it reaches the caramelized stage will cause it to cool and thicken dramatically. So you are not doing anything wrong, just witnessing the effects of chemistry. The best way to speed up the re-liquification process is to heat the cream to the boiling point before adding it to the caramel. Even with this step, there will be a foaming of the liquid and some thickening. Use a heavy-bottomed pan with a smooth interior, which will allow you to reheat the caramel over a higher flame and help prevent scorching.

Answer by Peter J. Kelly, a chef-instructor at Johnson & Wales University.