Souped Up

The Spartan regime we settle into in January can be satisfying if every meal begins with soup. Hot broth and vegetable soups are low-fat starters that take the edge off the winter appetite—especially when you come in from the cold and feel like tucking into a big dinner. There are no quick ways to load a simple broth with flavor. You can pack it with something aromatic, like mushrooms, or with loads of vegetables. In either case, the pot needs to cook for at least one hour. Gordon Hamersley's sherry-infused miso soup, made with several different mushrooms and on the menu at Hamersley's Bistro, is elegant enough for guests. Heartier and more suited to a family supper is winter vegetable soup, in which cabbage, root vegetables, and Swiss chard simmer steadily until the pot is brimming with their essence. Sprinkle grated cheese over a generous bowl, and you may want to skip the entree.

GORDON HAMERSLEY'S MISO SOUP
SERVES 6

At Hamersley's Bistro in Boston's South End, scallions and tofu are swirled into this soup just before serving. Offered in small bowls, the dark aromatic broth is made with fresh and dried mushrooms, dry sherry, and soy sauce.

4 tablespoons olive oil
1 Spanish onion, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
4 portobello mushrooms, stemmed and coarsely chopped
10 large white mushrooms, stemmed and coarsely chopped
2 ounces dried shiitake mushrooms
1 cup medium-dry sherry
1/4 cup soy sauce
Pinch each of dried oregano, thyme, basil, and rosemary
Salt, to taste
1 quart chicken stock
1 quart water
2 shallots, finely chopped
1/2 pound mixed fresh mushrooms (shiitake, crimini, portobello, or oyster), stemmed and finely chopped
1 bunch scallions (green part only), very thinly sliced
2 ounces tofu, cut into small cubes
2 tablespoons spicy miso paste (available in Asian markets)

In a large flameproof casserole, heat 2 tablespoons of the oil. Add the onion, garlic, and portobello and white mushrooms. Cook over medium heat, stirring often, for 10 minutes or until the vegetables release some of their liquid.

Add the dried shiitakes, sherry, soy sauce, oregano, thyme, basil, rosemary, salt, chicken stock, and water. Bring the mixture to a boil. Lower the heat so that the liquid barely simmers.

Cook the soup for 1 hour or until the liquid has a hearty mushroom flavor.

Set a fine strainer (or a strainer lined with cheesecloth) over a bowl. Strain the broth and set it aside. Puree the cooked mushroom mixture for a pasta sauce or baked pasta.

Wipe out the pot. Heat the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil. Add the shallots and mixed fresh mushrooms. Cook over medium heat, stirring often, for 3 minutes. Add the reserved mushroom broth and bring it to a boil.

Lower the heat so the broth boils gently (it should just bubble on the surface). Simmer for 15 minutes.

Add the scallions, tofu, and miso. Stir the mixture to blend it thoroughly. Remove from the heat, taste for seasoning, and add more salt if you like.

Ladle into small bowls and serve at once.

WINTER VEGETABLE SOUP
SERVES 6

For a meaty element, replace some of the water with chicken stock, or add a ham bone, an uncooked turkey leg, or cooked crumbled bacon.

2 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 onions, coarsely chopped
4 carrots, coarsely chopped
2 stalks celery, coarsely chopped
Salt and pepper, to taste
1/2 small head cabbage, coarsely chopped
1 can (14 ounces) whole tomatoes, crushed in a bowl
21/2 quarts water, or more as necessary
1 bunch Swiss chard, stems trimmed and leaves coarsely chopped
1 large Yukon Gold or Yellow Finn potato (unpeeled), cut into 1/4-inch cubes
3 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
1/2 cup grated Parmesan cheese (for serving)
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley (for serving)

In a large flameproof casserole, heat the oil. Add the onions, carrots, and celery with plenty of salt and pepper. Cook over low heat, stirring often, for 15 minutes or until the vegetables soften.

Add the cabbage and cook, stirring, for 5 minutes.

Add the tomatoes, water, Swiss chard, potato, and thyme. Bring to a boil, lower the heat, and set the pot cover on askew.

Simmer for 1 hour or until the vegetables are very tender. If needed, add more water, 1/4 cup at a time.

Ladle into bowls and sprinkle with Parmesan and parsley. Serve at once.

Ask the Cook: Fat Facts

I try to avoid hydrogenated or trans fat in my family's diet but am confused by food labels that list partially hydrogenated vegetable oil (a source of trans fat) but then claim to have 0 percent trans fat. Can you explain?

J.R.B./// Arlington

According to federal labeling guidelines, which can be found online at www. cfsan.fda.gov, food manufacturers are allowed to list amounts of trans fat on the Nutrition Facts panel as 0 (zero) if the product contains less than .5 grams per serving. As a result, a few products that list shortening, partially hydrogenated vegetable oil, or hydrogenated vegetable oil as ingredients may also claim 0 grams trans fat on the label.

Trans fat is created when food processors alter relatively healthy liquid vegetable oils by heating them in the presence of metal catalysts and hydrogen in order to make them more shelf-stable and versatile. Called hydrogenation, the process causes the fat to react like, and exhibit the properties of, a saturated fat. The resulting hydrogenated fat will be more solid at room temperature, will resist rancidity, and will increase the shelf life of food products.

Unfortunately, the molecular transformation has negative health effects, because trans fats, as do saturated fats and dietary cholesterol, raise the LDL ("bad") cholesterol levels and increase the risk for coronary heart disease.

This week's answer is by Peter J. Kelly, a chef-instructor at Johnson & Wales University.