Best of the New: Food
These eateries -- new arrivals plus a few old-timers that saw revivals, thanks to new chefs -- give us the best excuses to break for an overstuffed sandwich, a flaky pastry, or a four-course meal. There are options from Maine to the Cape.
Ashmont Grill
Ashmont Grill may be more than a mere restaurant. It stands to become one of the catalysts for the renaissance of the Ashmont neighborhood. In the meantime, the place has cultivated a homey appeal that has people lining up for some of the best comfort food in Dorchester, from "train wreck" fries to barbecued ribs. Ashmont Grill is the baby of Chris Douglass, who also owns the considerably fancier Icarus in the South End but decided his second restaurant would be in his own neighborhood. Welcome home. 555 Talbot Avenue, Dorchester, 617-825-4300, ashmontgrill.com
Bistro 712
Every suburb deserves a restaurant worthy of downtown dining without the downtown prices, and Bistro 712 is doing just that for Norwood Center. Chefs Sean Canny and Christopher Scanlon borrow from southern Europe's best traditions and make them their own. Two must-tastes are the delicate, creamy garlic flan appetizer and the duck with lentils. Fennel bread pudding adds an unexpected and pleasing note to the tender veal. The extensive wine list is a bonus. 712 Washington Street, Norwood, 781-769-7712
Cape Cod Creamery
Walk into Cape Cod Creamery, and you are dazzled by the gorgeously displayed ice cream. Owner Alan Davis decided that improving the presentation would make already delicious ice cream even more appealing, and he was right. Every freezer-case flavor is creatively garnished: Craigville Caramel Crunch, drizzled with caramel and candied pecans; Eastham Espresso, scattered with coffee beans; Dennis Double Chocolate, topped with a swirl of chocolate sauce. Looks only go so far, but, thankfully, this ice cream tastes even better than it looks. Once the store reopens for the season on April 1, you can enjoy a cone on the front porch with tables and Adirondack chairs made by Davis. Route 28, South Yarmouth, 508-398-8400
Forest Cafe
We all love a good comeback story. In the late 1980s and early 1990s, chef Jim Fahey created a rabid fan base for his authentic Mexican cuisine in a grungy bar near Porter Square called Forest Cafe. When he moved on, the crowds did, too. Now he's back at the same location, newly refurbished and brightly painted, turning out rustic fare that's way beyond burritos or Tex-Mex. His dark, complex mole sauces have just a hint of chili fire. The swordfish with tomatillo sauce and fresh guacamole lilts on the tongue, and green beans strewn with bits of toasted garlic and splashed with lime upends any notion of Mexican food being too heavy. 1682 Massachusetts Avenue, Cambridge, 617-661-7810, theforestcafe.com
 (Globe Staff Photo / Wendy Maeda) |
Step into this gorgeous candy shop, and you'll feel like you're 10 years old again. At The Fudge Bar, a smiling clerk standing behind a long granite counter will greet you, asking, as if there was more than one answer: "Would you like to try a piece of fudge?" Owners Sandra and Steve Clement, who already sell their fudge at a Hull gift shop and at Logan Airport, make about 30 different flavors of the candy at their Quincy shop, and they're all creamy and innovative. Try the coffee toffee crunch, or create your own fudge: Select a chocolate or vanilla base, add your favorite mix-ins, and top it off with a flavored swirl. The other side of the store is an even bigger delight, if that's possible, with old-fashioned candy by the pound, a station to dip fruit, pretzels, and other goodies into melted fudge, and a soft-serve ice-cream machine. 1219 Hancock Street, Quincy, 617-774-1219, thefudgebar.com
Gargoyle's on the Square
Every neighborhood needs a Gargoyle's - a place that's comfortable, friendly, and moderately priced. Even better for the Davis Square-and-beyond crowd is that Jason Santos came on last spring as chef, giving this longtime Somerville restaurant a fresh burst of energy. Santos, who honed his adventurous style at Tremont 647, finds a new level of sophistication here, plucking accents from Asia and elsewhere and marrying them to a New American palette. His duck confit is glazed with hoisin and honey and served with sticky rice. Chicken is cooked sous vide, or in a vacuum pouch, making the flesh amazingly tender and letting the woodsy flavor of the mushroom duxelle shine. After 10 years, Gargoyle's is a staple on the dining scene, but Santos's energy and creativity give unfamiliar diners a new reason to discover it. 219 Elm Street, Somerville, 617-776-5300, gargoylesonthesquare.com
Haley House Bakery Cafe
Corn bread, maple scones, egg-and-cheese wraps, and jerk chicken are just some of the tasty, homey fare offered at the bustling Haley House Bakery Cafe, located in a former corrugated-cardboard factory in Roxbury's Dudley Square. The cafe, a project of a nonprofit institution for the needy called Haley House, serves breakfasts and lunches. It tapped a real pro as its executive chef: cookbook author Didi Emmons, owner of the popular Veggie Planet in Cambridge's Harvard Square. 2139 Washington Street, Roxbury, 617-445-0900, haleyhouse.org/cafe
 (Globe Staff Photo / Wendy Maeda) |
Kudos to Peter Meyer for having the chutzpah to unveil a new coffee shop and compete against
Marco
Marc Orfaly's tiny Italian restaurant Marco is rustic and homey but also decidedly urban. In this upperlevel North End spot that had been Trattoria Scalitanella, Orfaly and chef de cuisine Matthew Abdoo are cranking out a slew of antipasti, including more house-cured salumi than you can shake a fork at, plus fried cod cheeks, a killer risotto, and, of course, plenty of pasta, with sauces bright and deep and sometimes both. It's what the North End needed. 253 Hanover Street, second floor, Boston, 617-742- 1276, marcoboston.com
 (Globe Photo / Heath Robbins) |
Until Mare, the term "slick North End restaurant" was oxymoronic. But chef Marisa Iocco and owner Frank de Pasquale clearly wanted to make a splash, which is why Mare is devoted to organic seafood. From the outside, the corner restaurant looks a bit like a giant aquarium, with floor-to-ceiling windows and a morphing-color light installation on one wall (below). The look may not be exactly restrained, but Iocco's way with seafood is: She treats the seafood itself lightly, so that its quality and flavor shine, but she adds fl ashes of intense flavor in the sauces and accompaniments. 135 Richmond Street, Boston, 617-723-6273, mareorganic.com
MC Perkins Cove
The view from MC Perkins Cove could have been lifted from a Winslow Homer painting. The Atlantic surf rolls up to the restaurant's panoramic windows, and foamy water thrashes against the nearby rocky cliffs of Marginal Way in Ogunquit, Maine. The only thing that can top this setting is the food from Mark Gaier and Clark Frasier, acclaimed chefs and co-owners of nearby Arrows Restaurant. At lunch, share a two-tiered shellfish tower, replete with lobster tail, shrimp, tuna sashimi, crab, oysters, and mussels. In the evening, dine on sesame-crusted deep-fried rainbow trout, with its crackling skin and tender meat. More fish and steak options await in the "Grilled Maines" section of the menu. 111 Perkins Cove Road, Ogunquit, Maine, 207-646-6263, mcperkinscove.com
 (Globe Photo / Heath Robbins) |
This sleek newcomer, with streamlined decor, a German- and northern European-inspired menu, and a tantalizing wine list, is so unusual in Lynn's deserted nighttime landscape that you have to pinch yourself to make sure you're not in Boston's South End. At Oxford Street Grill, chef David Fitzgerald creates finely crafted versions of Wiener schnitzel and beef short ribs, spins beef into a cross-cultural shumai dumpling, and lightens up with lamb marinated in pomegranate juice, Azerbaijani style. And, in the best tradition of lands that know cold weather, tarts and cakes are topped with delectable clouds of schlag (whipped cream, to the uninitiated). 191 Oxford Street, Lynn, 781-593-3111, oxfordstgrill.com
The Real Deal
It was only a matter of time before someone opened a full-scale deli on West Roxbury's bustling Centre Street. But naming sandwiches after "Bugsy" Siegel and Al Capone? "Who doesn't like the Godfather or Tony Soprano?" asks Eric Battite, whose shop, The Real Deal, serves more than a dozen wraps and hot panini sandwiches named after real and fictional gangsters, a la Battite's other deli, the Brookline Spa. Do yourself a favor and try the Teflon Don boneless buffalo wings wrap. Or grab a thin-crust pizza slice - if you're on the run, that is. 1882 Centre Street, West Roxbury, 617-325-0754
Rosie's Bakery
Cambridge's Porter Square area has always had stores to rival its better-known neighbor, Harvard Square - minus one ingredient. "People were just thirsting for a bakery in that area," says Judy Rosenberg, who obliged by opening her sixth Rosie's Bakery in Porter Square last fall. Intimate, with just six tiny tables, the newest Rosie's is one of only two offering sandwiches, salads, and soups. We recommend the Save the Dolphin tuna on a crusty baguette. And, of course, it features Rosie's famous dessert menu, starring Chocolate Orgasm brownies. And then there's the delectably rich Harvard Squares - full of nuts, of course. 1796 Massachusetts Avenue, Cambridge, 617-902-2029, rosiesbakery.com
Seiyo
Say "Yum." Seiyo's sashimi has a buttery texture that's bested only by the delicious maki (try the Red Dragon with spicy tuna, or the Caterpillar with grilled eel and cucumber, wrapped in avocado). While mediocre sushi joints continue to spawn all over this town, owner Stephen Yung and sushi chef Haru Chen (formerly of Fugakyu in Brookline) are swimming upstream with quality fish and a modern, Western decor. ("Seiyo" means "Western.") Glossy wooden bar tables and ambient lighting at this South End spot welcome and charm diners. Seiyo has a bring-your-own-alcohol policy but shares its space with a wine shop run by Charlie Oakman. So, if you're in the mood, you can purchase a bottle for prices much lower than those on most menus. Dinner for four, sans vino, can run as low as $65. 1721C Washington Street, Boston, 617-447-2183
Sonsie Wine Bar
What used to be the least-visited section of this Newbury Street icon - the basement Red Room - is now the place to see and be seen after a dramatic renovation. In July, Sonsie transformed the Red Room into a cozy wine bar. The candlelit room feels like a cava in Madrid, with its brick walls, slate floor, and a 250-or-so-item wine menu. Go during the week, and the convivial and knowledgeable bar staff will pour tastings for you. After a big game in December, Tom Brady and teammates celebrated here with bottles of Rombauer zinfandel. So, that must say something, right? 327 Newbury Street, Boston, 617-351-2500
South Kitchen and Wine Bar
Southie resisted the trendy restaurant gentrification of Boston as long as it could. Then, last September, along came South Kitchen and Wine Bar and, well, things change. Now there's a neighborhood nook for those looking to swirl a glass of pinot noir instead of raising a pint. The wine list offers 140 choices, including some unusual varietals. The surprisingly large space is both family friendly (kids' menu) and date worthy with its inviting booths. The '80s music bridges the gap between the young hipsters and family diners. Entree prices range from $9.95 for the beef brisket to $26 for a New York strip steak, but the constantly changing vegetables are the strength here. 77 Dorchester Street, South Boston, 617-269-7832, southkitchenbar.com
Stella
The memorable dishes at the South End bistro Stella are each built around a single flavor that jumps up and begs to be noticed. The tuna-and-salmon crudo misto is dressed in a bright lemony vinaigrette, the Bolognese over tagliatelle pulls its richness from chicken livers, and - though they're off the menu now, you can get them if you ask - hot, crispy fries are tossed with spicy pickled peppers. Generous portions (when in doubt, share), a stylish clientele, and a kitchen open until 1:30 a.m. conspire to make Stella an outstanding addition to a neighborhood already teeming with standouts. 1525 Washington Street, Boston, 617-247-7747, bostonstella.com
Stone Hearth Pizza Co.
Jonathan Schwarz and Christopher Robbins were confident when they opened Stone Hearth Pizza Co. in Belmont last summer. The two former information-technology geeks had no restaurant experience, but they knew enough to hire former Hamersley's Bistro chef Michael Ehlenfeldt as general manager, bring in Cook's Illustrated test-kitchen director Erin McMurrer as chef-consultant, and serve only stylish pizzas, beautiful salads, a fine locally made gelato, and charming wines. Stone Hearth II is in the works. 57 Leonard Street, Belmont, 617-484-1700, stonehearthpizza.com
 (Globe Photo / Heath Robbins) |
With Toro, Ken Oringer (of Clio and Uni fame) has brought a Barcelona-style tapas bar to the South End. It's real in its rollicking, somewhat chaotic scene, and real in its vibrant take on Spanish flavors, from the gloriously simple tomato bread and fried pimentos to more complex duck legs with kumquats and fried churros with chili-spiked chocolate. The dishes aren't purely Iberian - the delectable maiz asado is Mexican - and check totals are surely higher than the $25 average Oringer promised. But the spirit is so accessibly buoyant that we don't mind paying for it. We just wish we didn't have to wait so long for a table. 1704 Washington Street, Boston, 617-436-4300
Vintage
West Roxbury, it seems, had been waiting for a high-end suburban steakhouse. Vintage fits the description like a glove. There's a modern air about the place, as the customers along the bar drink pink cosmopolitans and bright-blue martinis in the burnished golden glow of men's-club chic. All the steakhouse classics - the cuts of beef, lamb, and pork, the iceberg lettuce salad with blue cheese dressing, the hefty wedge of chocolate cake - have made the trip to suburbia. But, along with the free valet parking, there's another perk to dining steakhouse-style out of the city center. Instead of the a la carte method, where each dish of sauteed vegetables or mashed potatoes costs extra, Vintage throws them in for free. Which means your steakhouse experience can be a little lighter on the wallet. 1430 VFW Parkway, West Roxbury, 617-469-2600, vintagerestaurants.com
KENMORE'S KICKING THIS SQUARE NEAR FENWAY PARK NOW BOASTS SEVERAL STANDOUT EATERIES. SO STOP FOR A BITE THE NEXT TIME YOU'RE IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD - BALLGAME OR NO.
 (Globe Staff Photo / Wendy Maeda) |
Kenmore Square's rebirth may have started with the opening of the Hotel Commonwealth in 2002, but it wasn't until Eastern Standard's red awning went up last spring that the square started really breathing again. Inside Garrett Harker's brasserie, the big Peter Niemitz-designed room, done up in clubby browns and blues, swings along to a playful jazz soundtrack. The menu boasts some Francophile touches, such as a good plate of off al, steak frites, and a standout frisee salad with poached egg and sweetbreads (left), but chef Jamie Bissonnette also turns out a juicy burger. Harker, former partner with Barbara Lynch in No. 9 Park, B&G Oysters, and the Butcher Shop, has created something that's easy on the eyes, ears, and palate. 528 Commonwealth Avenue, Boston, 617-532-9100
(Globe Staff Photo / Wendy Maeda)
Petit Robert Bistro
Anyone who mourned the city's loss of the venerable Maison Robert Restaurant (now a Ruth's Chris Steak House) perked up at the news that Jacky Robert had opened his own spot in Kenmore Square. With Petit Robert Bistro, he and co-owner Loic Le Garrec have delivered on the Robert family's formidable reputation, bringing Gallic authenticity to a charming little place where tender escargot (right), lamb cassoulet, and expertly made creme brulee await. In the true sense of a bistro, dinner entrees are all under $20. 468 Commonwealth Avenue, Boston, 617-375-0699, petitrobertbistro.com
Temper Chocolates
Don't even try "just looking" at Temper Chocolates, the tiny shop and cafe off the Hotel Commonwealth's lobby, because the aroma won't let you. If you just need to satisfy a chocolate fix, order the hot chocolate - it will change your life. Then, once you're hooked - and you've banished the word Hershey's from your vocabulary - the next step is sampling a "flight" of chocolates grouped the way a bar or restaurant might offer a flight of wines. Or take home a box of exquisite bonbons. That is, if they can make it home. 500 Commonwealth Avenue, Boston, 617-375-2255
GOOD FOR YOU IN A YEAR WHEN AMERICANS' WAISTLINES CONTINUED TO EXPAND, THE BOSTON AREA SAW THE WELCOME ADDITION OF FOUR HEALTHY-FOOD BUSINESSES.
b.good
Cousin Oliver, who lends his name to a 456-calorie burger topped with lettuce, tomato, red onion, dill pickle, and a "secret sauce" at b.good, would be proud. The Harvard Square location - the second outpost of this healthy fast-food eatery - opened in November in a place that could use a few more cheap, fast eats. With 30 seats, exposed brick walls, and free wireless access, this could become a very popular hangout. Guilt-free Caesar salads and shakes complement the burgers, but the oven-baked fries make any study break worthwhile. More vegetarian offerings and later hours make b.good a great fit for the Cambridge college scene. 24 Dunster Street, Cambridge, 617-354-6500, bgood.com
Well, Well, Well
Well, Well, Well takes frozen food to a level way beyond TV dinners. The offerings - once only available by delivery, but now at this South End shop - are all natural and organic, with creative dishes such as Parmesan-crusted chicken with leeks and apples and pan-seared scallops with an orange-ginger glaze. Meals are blast-frozen, a European technique that seals in flavor, and there are entrees, soups, and side dishes available. 23 Dartmouth Street, Boston, 617-945-3500, well3.com
 (Globe Staff Photo / Wendy Maeda) |
The tangy Banana Strawberry Swirl smoothie will have you closing your eyes in appreciation with each sip, which means you won't have to look at the protein powders and diet supplements beefing up KnowFat! Lifestyle Grille's shelves. Luckily, the Downtown Crossing establishment, which joins three other Boston- area locations, also has a lower level, where these potions and powders, available for purchase, are not as visible. The grub - from a grilled turkey and steamed broccoli plate (above left) to a vegetarian sloppy Joe - is good enough that you aren't constantly conscious that you are being conscientious about your health. 530 Washington Street, Boston, 617-451-0043, knowfat.com
A new Whole Foods isn't a rare sight in Greater Boston, but when one moved into Charles River Plaza last September, it gave the neighborhood its first large, upscale grocer - and in the process created a noteworthy singles scene at the salad bar. Gathered round the array of delectable prepared foods are docs just off their shifts at Mass. General, young Beacon Hill types, and West Enders happily munching Moroccan couscous salad, organic baby spinach, garlic-sauteed broccolini, and fried tofu. There are so many flavorful, seasonal choices - we're talking food now - that you could enjoy a balanced dinner in the seating area several nights a week. 181 Cambridge Street, Boston, 617-723-0004, wholefoods.com
© Copyright 2006 Globe Newspaper Company.
