Figs to the Rescue

In this in-between season - when we start to tire of winter's earthy roots but the region's own fresh vegetables are a long way off - we need a change of tempo. Recently, we found an unexpected little fillip in the form of dried Turkish figs. These ancient fruits, with their squat teardrop shape, turn up on Mediterranean menus from time to time, but the home cook can use them to add flair to a supper plate of pork chops or to dress up a dinner-party salad. If you can't find Turkish figs, any dried figs that haven't lost all of their moisture will do. Some chefs poach figs in red wine, but we prefer the old English method of simmering plump figs in strong tea, which produces milder morsels than wine. Add orange rind and crystallized ginger to the pot to amplify the flavors. Or forget cooking altogether and serve your figs on a platter simply, with ripe melon and slices of ham or prosciutto. It will help tide you over until summer gardens flourish.

PORK CHOPS WITH RED ONIONS AND FIGS
SERVES 4

3 dried figs, coarsely snipped
4 thick center-cut pork loin chops
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
1 large red onion, halved and thinly sliced
1 cup chicken stock
3 tablespoons heavy cream
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

In a bowl, cover the figs with boiling water and let them sit for at least 10 minutes.

Sprinkle the pork chops with salt and pepper.

In a large skillet with a heatproof handle, heat the oil. Add the chops and cook over high heat for 2 minutes without moving. Turn the chops and cook for 2 minutes or until they are browned on both sides. Transfer the chops to a plate.

Set the oven at 400 degrees.

Without wiping out the skillet, add the butter. When it melts, add the onion and cook over medium heat, stirring often, for 10 minutes or until the onion softens.

Drain the figs. Add them and chicken stock to the skillet. Bring to a boil. Return the chops to the pan and spoon the fig-onion mixture over them.

Transfer the skillet to the oven and roast the chops for 10 minutes or until they are cooked through but still slightly pink inside.

Set the chops on a platter, cover loosely with foil, and keep in a warm place.

Pour the cream and parsley into the sauce and stir well, scraping the pan. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper if you like.

Arrange the chops on dinner plates. Spoon the sauce and fig mixture on top and serve at once.

ARUGULA SALAD WITH FIGS
SERVES 4

3 tablespoons balsamic vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard Salt and pepper, to taste
1/4 cup olive oil
2 bunches arugula, rinsed well and stemmed
1 small sweet onion (Vidalia, OSO Sweet, or another variety), halved and thinly sliced
1/2 cup fresh flat-leaf parsley leaves
4 scallions, finely chopped
4 figs poached in tea (see recipe below)
4 slices crusty country bread
1 clove garlic, halved
Extra olive oil (for sprinkling)
4-ounce piece Parmesan cheese

In a small bowl, whisk the vinegar, mustard, salt, and pepper. Gradually whisk in the oil in a steady stream until the dressing emulsifies; set it aside.

In a bowl, toss together the arugula, sweet onion, parsley leaves, and scallions; set aside.

Cut the figs into thick slices; set aside.

Toast the bread until the slices are golden brown. Rub them with garlic and sprinkle with oil.

Add half of the dressing to the arugula mixture and toss well. Add enough of the remaining dressing to moisten the greens and toss again.

Divide the salad among 4 plates. Add some figs and a slice of bread to each one. With a rotary vegetable peeler, shave several slices of Parmesan onto each salad. Serve at once.

POACHED FIGS IN TEA
SERVES 4

Poached figs will keep in the refrigerator for several weeks. Use them as a garnish for roasted or broiled meats, serve them with brunch, or snip them and sprinkle them onto a bowl of yogurt.

1 cup sugar
4 cups water
2 tea bags
Pared rind of 1 navel orange
1 pound dried figs
2 tablespoons chopped crystallized ginger

In a heavy-based saucepan, heat the sugar and water, stirring occasionally, until the sugar dissolves. Add the tea bags and steep for 5 minutes. Remove and discard the bags.

Add the orange rind, figs, and ginger. Bring to a boil. Turn the heat to medium-low, cover the pan, and simmer for 20 minutes or until the figs are tender. Let cool to room temperature before serving. To store, place the figs and their liquid in a tightly covered container and refrigerate.

ASK THE COOK: Green Garlic

Sometimes when you cut into a clove of garlic, there is a green inner section. Is this bitter? Should it be removed before using:

IRMA MOSS /// Falmouth

Just in time for spring, that little clove is trying to make more of itself. Left to its own devices, and given some soil for nutrients, the plant would self-propagage, and you could start your own garlic farm. The sprout is drawing moisture and sustenance from the clove. This happens mostly in garlic that was harvested last year, and it's a natural part of the plant's cycle.

If the green part is quite small and the clove is still nice and firm, you can leave it in when cooking. However, most of the time I remove the sprout, because it can become bitter and may give an off taste to a dish. The sprout will be worse in leftovers, since the bitter flavor intensifies with time. Also, the sprout can discolor when cooked and alter the appearance of your food in an unappealing way.

In any case, remember a few pointers: Cook garlic gently and don't burn it, which can cause it to become intensely bitter. The smaller the pieces, the more quickly the cooking will extract the flavor. To prevent garlic from sprouting, peel and place the cloves in a shallow saucepan, barely cover them with vegetable oil, and simmer until the cloves color slightly and are the texture of soft buttter. Cool and place the cloves and the oil in a container with a tight-fitting cover and refrigerate. Use the garlic in everything. You can use the oil in vinaigrettes, brushed on bread, or to marinate meats for the grill.

Answer by Peter J. Kelly, a chef-instructor at Johnson & Wales University.