Fruit Cake

A simple cake can become a dozen desserts. Start with a good store-bought poundcake, then add fresh ripe fruits, along with whipped cream to hold them in place. If you can arrange raspberries and blueberries in neat rows, you can produce an elegant multilayered confection. Use the buttery slices to make poundcake "sandwiches" with roasted peaches and cream, or let the cake replace stale challah in a bread pudding. Mix and match from these sweet components: Layer ripe berries in the cake sandwiches, for instance, or add a handful of fresh blueberries to the pudding before it gets baked. These desserts require more assembly than time at the stove. And in the summer kitchen, that's a blessing.

LAYER CAKE WITH BERRIES AND CREAM
SERVES 6

1 cup heavy cream
1/4 cup confectioners' sugar
1 store-bought poundcake (1 pound)
1 pint fresh raspberries
2 pints fresh blueberries
Extra confectioners' sugar (for sprinkling)

In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat the cream until soft peaks form. Gradually beat in the sugar. Continue beating until the cream forms stiff peaks.

Place the poundcake on a cutting board. Using a serrated knife with the blade held parallel to the table, slice the cake into 4 horizontal slices, keeping them in order. Set the bottom piece on a flat serving plate. Spread some of the whipped cream over the surface, line the cream with some of the berries, and add more cream to fill in the gaps.

Continue with the other layers until the cake is reassembled. Use all the cream between the layers, and leave the top of the cake unadorned. Save about 15 berries for the top. (If not serving the cake right away, loosely cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate the cake for up to 2 hours.)

Just before serving, sprinkle the top of the cake generously with confectioners' sugar. Arrange the reserved berries down the middle of the cake in a neat row. Cut the cake into wide slices for serving.

POUNDCAKE "SANDWICHES" WITH ROASTED PEACHES AND CREAM
SERVES 4

Butter (for the dish)
4 ripe peaches
1/2 cup brown sugar
1 cup heavy cream
1 store-bought poundcake (1 pound)
1/4 cup confectioners' sugar
Extra confectioners' sugar (for sprinkling)

Set the oven at 375 degrees. Have on hand a baking dish large enough to hold 8 peach halves. Lightly butter the dish.

Halve and pit the peaches. Arrange them cut sides up in the baking dish. Sprinkle them with brown sugar and 1/2 cup of the cream. Roast the peaches for 25 to 30 minutes or until they are tender and brown at the edges.

Cut off the ends of the poundcake. Cut in to 8 1/4-inch-thick slices.

In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat the remaining 1/2 cup of cream until soft peaks form. Gradually beat in the confectioners' sugar. Continue beating until the cream forms stiff peaks.

Lay 4 slices of poundcake on each of 4 dessert plates. Spread them with some of the whipped cream. Cut each peach half in half again. Arrange peaches on the cream, top with more whipped cream, and cover the sandwiches with the remaining slices of poundcake. Sprinkle with confectioners' sugar and serve at once.

POUNDCAKE BREAD PUDDING WITH WILD BLUEBERRY SAUCE
SERVES 6

Butter (for the dish)
4 eggs
1 cup granulated sugar
11/2 cups whole milk
1 teaspoon vanilla
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 store-bought poundcake (1 pound), cut into 2-inch pieces
1 bag (10 ounces) frozen wild blueberries
Grated rind and juice of 1 lemon
Confectioners' sugar (for sprinkling)

Set the oven at 350 degrees. Have on hand an 8-inch square baking dish. Generously butter the dish.

In the bowl of an electric mixer, beat the eggs and 1/2 cup of the granulated sugar for 1 minute. Add the milk, vanilla, and salt. Continue beating for 1 minute.

Place the poundcake pieces in the baking dish. Pour the egg mixture on top. Using the back of a large spoon, press the cake into the egg mixture.

Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 30 minutes or overnight.

Bake the pudding for 45 minutes or until it is puffed and set.

Meanwhile, in a saucepan, combine the blueberries, the remaining 1/2 cup granulated sugar, and the lemon rind and juice. Cook the mixture over low heat, stirring often, until the sugar dissolves completely.

Turn up the heat and cook the berries, stirring occasionally, for 5 minutes. Pour the sauce into a heatproof serving bowl.

Cut the hot pudding into squares. Set the squares in shallow bowls. Dust them generously with confectioners' sugar. Serve at once with the blueberry sauce.

Ask the Cook: Lean on Me

My husband has recently been encouraged to go on a low-fat diet for medical reasons. He loves beef and pork. What cuts should I look for?
JENNIE KELVIN /// Watertown

Purchase meat with the least visible fat. Meats described as round, loin, or sirloin are leaner cuts, and anything with a USDA grading of "Choice" or "Select" is by definition lower in fat than "Prime" grade. Avoid meats with "marbling," that is, visible intramuscular fat. If you do have a cut with a high fat content, be certain to use a dry cooking method, such as grilling or broiling, which will allow much of the fat to melt away. Even ground beef can be included on a low-fat menu. Choose the leanest grind possible, brown it in a skillet, transfer the cooked meat to a strainer, and rinse away the fat with warm water. Cuts such as pork loin or beef tenderloin, while costly, are lean and easy to prepare. However, because they have such a low fat content, they can become dry if overcooked.

You also might consider game birds or venison, as they tend to be low in fat. Or try serving more poultry. Boneless, skinless chicken breast is infinitely versatile. When choosing poultry, avoid dark meat, which has a higher fat content than white meat.

Whatever cut you are cooking, add flavor without adding fat. Try marinating meats with citrus juice, soy, or a quick brush of Worcestershire sauce. Remember that controlling portion size and frequency of meat consumption plays a big part in a well-balanced, healthy diet.

By Peter J. Kelly, a chef-instructor at Johnson & Wales University.