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COOKING

Sweet Cherries

Roasting cherry tomatoes makes them sweeter - and more versatile.

too hot to hold Heap bruschetta with roasted cherry tomatoes and drizzle with oil for a summery first course.
too hot to hold Heap bruschetta with roasted cherry tomatoes and drizzle with oil for a summery first course. (Photo / Jim Scherer; Styling / Sheryl Julian and Julie Riven)

Cherry tomatoes are delectable straight from the vine - all sweetness and juice. Give them a turn in a hot oven, and the sugars intensify while the skins char slightly, giving the little fruits a fuller, richer taste. They're something like sundried tomatoes, but you can skip the sun. Toss the cherries in olive oil and fresh herbs, and roast them until the skins burst. Then slide the tray of red orbs under a broiler to blacken the edges slightly before heaping them onto toasted baguette slices, tossing them with linguine and Parmesan, or mixing them with chilled shrimp and feta for a cool warm-weather supper. Even on the hottest days, we'll jack up the oven to cook these babies. If the kitchen seems unbearable, well, that's what fans are for.

HIGH-OVEN ROASTED CHERRY TOMATOES
SERVES 4

Although you can roast all kinds of cherry tomatoes and other varieties, round red cherry tomatoes work best. The skins on grape tomatoes are quite thick and don't suit roasting. Yellow or golden cherries, which are more delicate, are best eaten in salads.

2 pints cherry tomatoes
2 teaspoons olive oil, or more to taste
1 tablespoon chopped fresh herbs (thyme, oregano, rosemary)

Salt and pepper, to taste Set the oven at 400 degrees. Place the tomatoes on a rimmed baking sheet.

Sprinkle with the olive oil. With your hands, turn the tomatoes in the oil - adding more oil 1 teaspoon at a time, if needed - until they are coated all over. Sprinkle with the herbs, salt, and pepper.

Roast the tomatoes for 40 to 50 minutes or until they are very soft.

Turn on the broiler. Place the tomatoes about 12 inches from the broiling element and cook, watching them carefully, for 4 minutes, shaking the pan several times, or until the tomatoes are lightly charred.

BRUSCHETTA WITH ROASTED CHERRY TOMATOES
SERVES 4

1 baguette, thickly sliced Olive oil (for brushing)
1 clove garlic, halved
1 recipe high-oven roasted cherry tomatoes (see left) Salt and pepper, to taste Handful fresh basil leaves, coarsely torn

Set the oven at 450 degrees. Place the bread on a baking sheet. Brush the slices with olive oil.

Toast the bread in the hot oven for 15 minutes or until golden.

Rub the bread with the cut sides of the garlic. Place a spoonful of the tomatoes and their juices on the bread. Sprinkle with salt, pepper, and basil. Add a drizzle of olive oil and serve at once.

LINGUINE WITH ROASTED CHERRY TOMATO SAUCE
SERVES 4

Salt and black pepper, to taste
1 pound linguine or other thin spaghetti
1 recipe high-oven roasted cherry tomatoes (see left)
1/4 cup olive oil
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1/4 teaspoon crushed red pepper
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil. Add the linguine and cook over high heat, stirring often, for 10 to 12 minutes or until the pasta is tender but still has some bite. Before draining the pasta, dip a heatproof measuring cup into the cooking water and remove 1/2 cup.

Drain the pasta into a colander.

Meanwhile, in a large bowl, with kitchen shears, coarsely snip the tomatoes into pieces.

In a skillet, heat the olive oil. Add the garlic and crushed red pepper and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly, for 1 minute. Add the tomatoes and pasta cooking liquid. Cook, stirring, just until the mixture comes to a boil. Add the parsley, salt, and black pepper. Stir well.

In 4 pasta bowls, pour a ladleful of the sauce. Divide the linguine among the bowls. Add more sauce to each one. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and serve at once.

ROASTED CHERRY TOMATOES WITH SHRIMP AND FETA ON ARUGULA
SERVES 4

1 pound large shrimp, shelled, cooked and cut into thirds
1/2 small red onion, halved and thinly sliced
1/2 cup crumbled feta cheese
1 recipe high-oven roasted cherry tomatoes (see left)
3 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 bunch arugula, stemmed
3 tablespoons lemon juice
1/4 cup olive oil

In a bowl, combine the shrimp, onion, feta, tomatoes, oregano, salt, and pepper.

Divide the arugula among 4 dinner plates. Top with the shrimp mixture.

In a bowl, whisk together the lemon juice, salt, and pepper. Gradually whisk in the oil. Drizzle the salad with the dressing, add more pepper, and serve at once.

ROASTING TOMATOES

If you prefer to roast larger tomatoes, they'll take 1 to 11/2 hours. The flesh of roasted plums or other native varieties tastes wonderful after cooking, but the skins are tough and should be discarded. Roasting tomatoes is a great way to store them for the winter. After skinning the cooked tomatoes, drop them into plastic zipper bags with some of the liquid from the pan. Freeze for up to 6 months.

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