Foolproof Pastry

Italian crostatas are rustic free-form tarts that can't be ruined by poor pastry makers. If you tear the dough as you roll it, there's nothing to worry about. Just press the torn parts together and keep rolling. As long as you can get something that resembles a round onto a baking sheet, you're on your way to a fine crostata. This open-faced tart, spread with peaches or prune plums, begins with a food-processor pastry dough that couldn't be more forgiving. After the filling goes onto the rough round, fold up the edges to encase the fruit and send it to the oven brushed with milk and sprinkled with sugar. If the finished confection looks asymmetrical, that's part of the charm.

CROSTATA PASTRY
MAKES ONE 10-INCH TART

1 1/2 cups flour
1/4 teaspoon baking powder
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut up
2 tablespoons sugar
1 egg
1 teaspoon distilled white vinegar
2 tablespoons ice water
Extra flour (for sprinkling)

In the bowl of a food processor, pulse the flour, baking powder, and salt just to sift them.

Scatter the butter over the flour mixture. Pulse the mixture just until it resembles crumbs. Add the sugar and pulse just to mix it in.

In a bowl, beat the egg, vinegar, and ice water. Sprinkle the liquids over the flour mixture. Pulse the processor just until the dough forms clumps. It should not come together to form a ball.

Turn the clumps out onto a lightly floured counter and knead them gently until smooth. Shape them into a disk, wrap in foil, and refrigerate for 30 minutes. Use as directed.

PEACH CROSTATA
MAKES ONE 9-INCH TART

6 large peaches
1/4 cup flour
3/4 cup granulated sugar
1 tablespoon lemon juice
1 recipe crostata pastry
2 tablespoons whole milk (for brushing)

Halve the peaches and remove the pits. Cut each half into 6 pieces and transfer them to a large bowl.

Sprinkle with flour, 1/2 cup of the sugar, and lemon juice. Toss gently.

Set the oven at 400 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

On a lightly floured counter, roll the pastry dough into a 12-inch round. Lift it onto the rolling pin and transfer it to the baking sheet. Refrigerate the pastry for 5 minutes.

Arrange the peach slices on the dough on their sides, in neat rows, making the rows as close together as possible. Leave a 1 1/2-inch border around the edge. Fold the border up over the fruit. It will pleat onto itself in places; that's OK.

Brush the exposed dough with milk. Sprinkle the fruit and dough with the remaining 1/4 cup sugar.

Bake for 15 minutes. Turn the oven down to 375 degrees.

Continue baking the crostata for 20 to 25 minutes or until the peaches are tender and the pastry is golden brown.

Let the crostata settle for 5 minutes. Transfer it, still on the parchment paper, to a wire rack to cool.

PRUNE PLUM CROSTATA WITH BROWN SUGAR TOPPING
MAKES ONE 9-INCH TART

Prune plums are small, very dark purple, and not too watery, so they're ideal for cooking. Typically, they are in season only this month and next. Once you halve the fruits, the stones release easily.

12 prune plums
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 recipe crostata pastry (see left)
1 tablespoon dark brown sugar
1/2 teaspoon ground cinnamon
1 tablespoon flour
3 tablespoons whole milk (for brushing)
Extra granulated sugar (for sprinkling)

Quarter the plums and remove the pits. Transfer the plums to a bowl.

Set the oven at 400 degrees. Line a rimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

On a lightly floured counter, roll the dough into a 12-inch round. Lift it onto the rolling pin and transfer it to the baking sheet. Refrigerate the pastry for 5 minutes.

Arrange the plums on the dough in neat rows, cut sides up, making the rows as close together as possible. Leave a 1 1/2-inch border around the edges.

In a bowl, combine the brown sugar, cinnamon, and flour. Sprinkle the mixture onto the prune plums. Fold the border of dough up over the fruit. It will pleat onto itself in places; that's OK.

Brush the exposed dough with milk. Sprinkle the dough - but not the fruit - with extra granulated sugar.

Bake for 15 minutes. Turn the oven down to 375 degrees.

Continue baking the crostata for 20 to 25 minutes or until the plums are tender and the pastry is golden brown.

Let the crostata settle for 5 minutes. Transfer it, still on the parchment paper, to a wire rack to cool.

OTHER FRUITS

Like French galettes, Italian crostata pastry can be filled with all kinds of fruits, including fall apples. Peel and slice about 4 medium fruits and toss with the grated rind and juice of 1 lemon, 2 tablespoons of sugar, and 1 tablespoon of flour. Follow the rolling and baking instructions at left. Use only baking apples, such as Baldwins or Golden Delicious. Watery McIntosh will soak the pastry.