Dare to Go Rare

Sushi taught Americans to appreciate the strikingly beautiful dark meat of raw tuna. Also from sushi came the fashion for serving the fish crusty on the outside and barely cooked inside. Seared rare tuna steak is on restaurant menus all over town at this time of year. That's because the local catch, particularly Atlantic bluefin tuna, is some of the best in the world, prized even in the Japanese market. And even though fresh tuna is one of the most expensive fish you can buy, it's one of the few restaurant dishes that you can easily cook at home. One cast-iron skillet and a complete disregard for splatters is all it takes. Heat the pan until it's literally too hot to hold, then cook the tuna steak in a thin film of oil, giving the fish a few minutes on a side. Crisp vegetables such as the slender French beans haricots verts go well with the rare slices, as do tender leaves of romaine in a creamy Parmesan-laced Caesar salad.

SEARED TUNA ON HARICOTS VERTS WITH POTATOES
SERVES 4

VEGETABLES
8 small yellow potatoes, scrubbed but unpeeled
1 pound haricots verts or other green beans, trimmed
4 tablespoons olive oil
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 teaspoons large capers, drained

In a saucepan fitted with a steamer insert and several inches of cold water, steam the potatoes, covered, over high heat for 15 minutes or until tender when pierced with a skewer. Transfer the potatoes to a bowl and set aside.

Rinse the saucepan and steamer. Put the insert back in the pan and fill it with several inches of cold water. Bring to a boil and add the haricots verts or green beans. Steam the beans, covered, for 3 to 6 minutes or until they are tender but still have some bite. Rinse with cold water; set aside.

Thickly slice the potatoes and return them to the bowl. Add 2 tablespoons of oil, the vinegar, salt, and pepper, and 1 teaspoon of capers. Toss gently.

Pat the beans dry with paper towels. Sprinkle with the remaining oil and capers and salt and pepper.

TUNA
1 thick tuna fillet (about 1 3/4 pounds)
Pared rind of 1 lemon
2 teaspoons fresh thyme leaves
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons, plus 1 teaspoon olive oil

Place the tuna in a baking dish. Add lemon rind, thyme, salt, and the 2 tablespoons of oil. Turn the fish in the mixture. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 2 to 3 hours.

Set a cast-iron skillet large enough to hold the fillet over medium-high heat. Place the 1 teaspoon of oil in the skillet and let it sit over the heat for 5 minutes or until the pan is quite hot.

Remove the tuna from the marinade and wipe off the lemon rind. Carefully set the fish in the pan and cook over medium-high heat for 3 to 4 minutes or until the tuna is golden brown on the underside. With a metal spatula, turn the tuna and continue cooking for 3 minutes or until it is golden on the other side. The center will be rare.

Transfer the tuna to a cutting board. Using a long chef's knife, slice the tuna on a diagonal against the grain into 1/2-inch-thick pieces.

Arrange the beans and potatoes on 4 plates. Add slices of tuna, and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Serve at once.

SEARED TUNA CAESAR
SERVES 4

1 clove garlic
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
6 anchovy fillets, coarsely chopped
1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1/2 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons lemon juice
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
Salt and pepper, to taste
1/3 cup grated Parmesan cheese
1 teaspoon olive oil
1 thick tuna fillet (about 1 3/4 pounds)
2 heads romaine lettuce, hearts only
2 Belgian endive, leaves separated
1/2 red onion, thinly sliced
Extra Parmesan cheese (for sprinkling)

In a food processor with the machine running, drop the garlic through the feed tube and let run until garlic is coarsely chopped. Add the mustard and anchovies and pulse until they are finely chopped. Add the Worcestershire sauce, mayonnaise, lemon juice, vinegar, salt, and pepper. When the mixture is smooth, add the Parmesan and pulse just to mix it in. Transfer the dressing to a bowl.

Set a cast-iron skillet large enough to hold the fillet over medium-high heat. Add the oil to the skillet and let it sit over the heat for 5 minutes or until the pan is quite hot. Carefully set the fish in the pan. Sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook over medium-high heat for 3 to 4 minutes or until the tuna is golden on the underside. With a metal spatula, turn the tuna, add more salt and pepper, and continue cooking for 3 minutes or until it is golden on the other side. The center will be rare.

Separate the romaine hearts into long leaves. In a large bowl, toss them with several spoonfuls of dressing. Add the endive, onion, salt, and pepper. Toss. Add enough dressing to coat the greens lightly. Add more Parmesan and toss.

Divide the salad among 4 deep plates. Sprinkle with more pepper.

Using a long chef's knife, slice the tuna on a diagonal against the grain into 1/2-inch-thick pieces. Add slices to each salad. Pass the remaining dressing. Serve at once.