All Small

Miniature hamburgers began as bar food, morsels to accompany cocktails. In fact, three minis make a terrific chaser to today's generous pours. When tiny burgers caught on, some restaurants began forming the patties with prized Kobe beef; buns might be rich, eggy brioche baked by the pastry chef. Both give the morsels extraordinary appeal. To make the minis at home, shape the hamburgers with ground sirloin, and find top-quality regular-size buns. Use a cookie cutter to stamp out miniature buns for your tiny sandwiches. For an encore, make a fleet of mini cheese puddings with the bun scraps. Layer them with milk, egg, and cheddar in small souffle dishes. Or top tiny blini with smoked fish and sour cream. Making dollhouse portions may feel silly at first, but the dishes are such crowd pleasers, you may find yourself turning out Lilliputian meals all the time.

MINI SIRLOIN BURGERS
SERVES 4

12 hamburger buns
1 pound ground sirloin
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 large scallions, thinly sliced

Set the buns on the counter. Using a 2-inch round cookie cutter, place the cutter in the center of a bun. With one hand on top of the other, press firmly down on the cutter to slice through the bun. Push the mini bun out of the cutter. Continue until all of the buns are cut. (Reserve the bread scraps to make miniature bread puddings; see following recipe).

In a bowl, use your hands to mix the ground meat, salt, and pepper. Wet your hands with cold water. Shape the meat into 12 pieces. Roll each into a patty about the size of a silver dollar.

Heat a large heavy skillet over medium-high heat. When the pan is hot, add half of the burgers. Cook them about 2 minutes on a side, or until they are golden outside and just pink inside. Keep the first batch warm while you prepare the second.

Cut the buns in half and toast them in a toaster oven or skillet, watching them so they don't burn.

Fill the buns with the burgers, tucking scallions into each one.

Serve with ketchup and mustard.

MINI BREAD AND CHEDDAR PUDDINGS
SERVES 8

6 tablespoons butter, at room temperature (for the ramekins)
1 pound sandwich loaf or challah
4 eggs
1/2 teaspoon salt
2 cups whole milk
1 cup grated cheddar cheese

Have on hand 8 ramekins individual souffle dishes) or custard cups (3/4-cup capacity each). Butter them generously.

Cut the bread into 2-inch pieces. In a large shallow bowl, beat the eggs and salt. Beat in the milk. Add the bread to the egg mixture. Using the back of large spoon, press the bread into the liquid. Lift up the edges of the bread to see if there are any dry spots. Continue pressing the bread until it is moist all over.

In the ramekins or cups, spoon half of the bread mixture. Sprinkle with half of the cheese. Spoon the remaining bread mixture on top. Sprinkle with remaining cheese. Add any liquid left to the bread.

Cover the ramekins or cups with plastic wrap. Set them on a rimmed baking tray and refrigerate for at least several hours or for as long as overnight.

Set the oven at 375 degrees. Remove the wrap from the ramekins or cups. Let them sit room temperature for 15 minutes.

Bake the puddings for 45 minutes or until they are puff ed and golden brown.

Carefully run a knife around the edges of the ramekins or cups. Turn out the puddings. Set them right side up and serve.

BLINI
SERVES 8

1 teaspoon active dry yeast
1/2 cup lukewarm water
1 teaspoon sugar
1 cup all-purpose flour
1/2 cup buckwheat flour (available at specialty shops)
1 egg, separated
2 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted
1/2 teaspoon salt
1 cup whole milk, warmed
Melted butter (for the pan)

In a large bowl, using a fork, stir together the yeast, water, and sugar. Set the mixture aside for 10 minutes or until you see small bubbles forming at the top.

Stir in 1/2 cup of the all-purpose flour and the 1/2 cup of buckwheat flour until the mixture is smooth. Cover the bowl with a damp kitchen towel and set aside in a warm place for 2 hours.

Later, in another bowl, beat the egg yolk with the 2 tablespoons melted butter and salt. Add the remaining 1/2 cup of all-purpose flour. Stir in the warm milk.

Pour the egg-and-butter mixture into the buckwheat mixture. Stir well. Cover with a damp kitchen towel and set aside for 1 hour or until doubled in bulk.

In a bowl, with a whisk, beat the egg white until stiff . Fold the egg white into the batter.

Set the oven at 275 degrees. Have on hand a baking sheet.

Heat a large heavy skillet. Brush it with the extra melted butter. Add the batter to the pan, a soup spoon's worth for each pancake. Leave about 1 inch between pancakes. When you see bubbles on the top of the pancakes, flip them and cook the second side until golden. The pan should be hot enough so the blini turn light golden rather than dark brown.

Transfer the blini to the baking sheet and cover with foil. Set them in the warm oven while you cook additional batches. Serve warm with smoked fish and sour cream.