Bake Me a Cake

If every mom (or dad) had a foolproof cake to trot out on birthdays and other special occasions - and a few hours to spare - neighborhood bakeries would go belly up. But even if you continue to use the bake shop as your first resort, it's nice to have a recipe you can count on for a milestone that deserves a homemade confection. We don't mean to suggest building something elaborate and triple-tiered. Forget layer-cake pans; stick to an ordinary 9-by-13-inch pan. Buttery cakes are not time-consuming, except for the wait while they bake, and they're even better made one day and eaten the next, because they mellow overnight. Spread creamy chocolate frosting on yellow cake or on fudgy chocolate cake. Line up the candles, and smile for the camera.

TURNING ONE LAYER INTO TWO

Turn out the cake and set it right side up on a board. Cut the cake in half to make two smaller pieces about 9 by 6 1/2 inches each. Set one right side up (the one that is slightly crowned) on a rectangular platter. Use a long metal spatula to frost the top. Set the other piece on top of the first. Frost the top and sides of the cake.

If you want to frost just the top, leave the cake in the pan. Or dust the top with confectioners' sugar.

YELLOW CAKE
MAKES 1 LARGE CAKE

Butter (for the pan)
Flour (for the pan)
4 cups flour
1 tablespoon baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
2 cups granulated sugar
4 eggs
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1/2 cup canola oil
1 1/2 cups whole milk

Set the oven at 325 degrees. Butter a 9-by-13-inch baking pan. Line it with parchment paper. Butter the paper and dust it with fl our, tapping out the excess; set aside.

Sift together the fl our, baking powder, and salt.

With an electric mixer, beat the butter for 1 minute, until creamy.

Gradually add the sugar and beat at medium speed for 3 minutes, scraping down the sides of the bowl several times.

With the mixer on medium speed, add the eggs to the batter one at a time, beating well after each. Beat in the vanilla, then the oil in a thin, steady stream.

With the mixer on low speed, beat the flour mixture into the batter alternately with the milk, beginning and ending with flour. Scrape up the batter from the bottom a few times.

Pour the batter into the pan and bake for 55 to 60 minutes or until toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean. Cool the cake on a wire rack.

Frost or dust the top or cut in half to make a layer cake (see left).

CHOCOLATE FROSTING
FOR A 9-BY-13-INCH CAKE

1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, cut up
4 ounces unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped
1 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
3 cups confectioners' sugar, sifted
6 tablespoons whole milk, or to taste, heated until just warm

In a heatproof bowl over a saucepan of hot water, melt the butter. Add the chocolate and stir until the chocolate melts. Remove the bowl from the water; dry bottom.

Transfer the chocolate mixture to an electric mixer. Start beating the mixture over low speed. Add the vanilla, then the sugar, a few spoonfuls at a time.

Gradually beat in enough of the milk to make a frosting that holds its shape. Beat the frosting for about 30 seconds on high speed or until it is quite smooth. Use as directed.

CHOCOLATE FUDGE CAKE
MAKES 1 LARGE CAKE

Butter (for the pan)
Flour (for the pan)
1 cup whole milk
3 ounces unsweetened chocolate, coarsely chopped
3 1/4 cups flour
2 teaspoons baking soda
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup (1 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 1/2 cups brown sugar
1 cup granulated sugar
3 eggs
1 tablespoon vanilla extract
1/3 cup canola oil
1 1/2 cups warm (not hot) black coffee

Set the oven at 325 degrees. Butter a 9-by-13-inch baking pan. Line it with parchment paper. Butter the paper and dust it with fl our, tapping out the excess; set aside.

In a small saucepan over medium-low heat, heat the milk and chocolate, stirring, until it is smooth. Do not let it boil. Remove from the heat and set aside to cool.

Sift together the flour, baking soda, and salt.

With an electric mixer, beat the butter for 1 minute, until creamy. Add the brown and granulated sugars and beat at medium speed for 2 minutes.

Add the eggs to the batter one at a time, beating well after each. Beat in the vanilla, then the oil in a thin, steady stream.

With the mixer on low speed, gradually beat the chocolate mixture into the batter. Add the fl our mixture to the batter alternately with the coffee, beginning and ending with fl our (the batter will be thin). Scrape up the batter from the bottom a few times.

Pour the batter into the pan and bake for 50 to 60 minutes or until a toothpick inserted in the center of the cake comes out clean. Cool on a wire rack.

Frost or dust the top or cut the cake in half and make a layer cake (see left).