Beyond Hummus

Most of us are familiar with chickpeas as the main ingredient in hummus, but in the Middle East and North Africa, the peas are as common on the table as salt. In countries such as Lebanon and Morocco, whole chickpeas are used in salads, soups, and stews. The peas are firm on the outside. But bite into the little nuggets, and you find a smooth, almost creamy center. In hummus, of course, whole peas are pureed with the sesame paste tahini. Inspired by a dish in Claudia Roden's new Arabesque, we deconstructed the dip, and instead of reaching for the food processor, we poured a lemony yogurt-tahini sauce on the chickpeas. Another classic pairing is chickpeas and mint. Toss the peas in a simple vinaigrette, then garnish with onion for a little bite and add a sprinkle of mint for grassy freshness. Or simmer a stew of chicken legs and chickpeas to make a pot that resembles the famous French cassoulet. Most cooks who use chickpeas reach for a can, though dried peas need just an hour of cooking after a good soaking. Either way, you'll get that melting quality in the centers, which is what you're after.

USING DRIED CHICKPEAS

Place 2 cups of dried chickpeas a bowl with enough cold water cover them by 2 inches. Set aside for at least 8 hours or overnight.

Drain the chickpeas and rinse them with cold water. In a large saucepan, combine the chickpeas with enough cold water to cover them by 2 inches. Bring to a boil. Turn the heat to medium-low cook the chickpeas gently for 1 hour or until they are tender but not falling apart. Salt the chickpeas near the end of cooking.

Drain the chickpeas.

WARM CHICKPEAS WITH RED ONION AND MINT
SERVES 6

2 cups dried chickpeas, cooked (see above), or 2 cans (15 ounces each) chickpeas, drained
1 small red onion, chopped
1/2 cup fresh mint leaves, finely chopped
1/4 cup olive oil
Salt and pepper, to taste
3 tablespoons red wine
vinegar

In a bowl, mix together the chickpeas, onion, and mint.

Sprinkle the mixture with oil and salt. Stir gently. Sprinkle with vinegar and stir again. Add plenty of pepper. Serve at once with lamb.

CHICKPEAS WITH PITA CHIPS AND YOGURT-TAHINI DRESSING
SERVES 6

2 pita breads (each 8 to 10 inches across), split and torn into 3-inch pieces
Olive oil (for sprinkling) Salt and black pepper, to taste
2 cups dried chickpeas, cooked (see left), or 2 cans (15 ounces each) chickpeas, drained
Pinch of crushed red pepper
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 cup whole-milk yogurt
2 tablespoons tahini
Juice of 1/2 lemon
4 scallions, trimmed and finely chopped

Set the oven at 350 degrees. Have on hand a baking sheet.

Transfer the pita pieces to the baking sheet. Sprinkle them lightly with oil and salt. Toast them for 10 minutes or until they are golden and crispy. Remove from the oven and set aside.

In a bowl, combine the chickpeas, red pepper, salt, and black pepper.

Add the 2 tablespoons of olive oil and toss well.

In a small bowl, stir together the yogurt, tahini, lemon juice, salt, and pepper.

Line a serving platter with the toasts. Spoon the chickpea mixture on top. Drizzle the yogurt dressing over the chickpeas. Garnish with scallions and serve at once.

CHICKEN LEGS WITH CHICKPEAS AND DRIED FRUIT
SERVES 4

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 Spanish onion, coarsely chopped
1 carrot, thickly sliced
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
4 whole chicken legs (3 to 3 1/4 pounds)
2 teaspoons ground ginger
2 1/2 cups water, or more if necessary
1 cup dried chickpeas, cooked for 45 minutes (see left), or 1 can (15 ounces) chickpeas, drained
1/2 cup dried apricots, halved
1/2 cup golden raisins
3 tablespoons chopped fresh oregano

In a large flameproof casserole, heat the oil. Add the onion, carrot, salt, and pepper. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring often, for 8 minutes or until the vegetables soften. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute.

Sprinkle the chicken legs with salt and pepper. Add them to the pan, skin side down, and cook over medium-high heat, turning occasionally, for 5 minutes. It's OK if the vegetables brown.

Remove the chicken from the pan, leaving the vegetables.

Sprinkle the vegetables with ground ginger and cook, stirring, for 2 minutes.

Pour in the water and bring to a boil. Add the chickpeas, apricots, and raisins.

Return the chicken to the pan, skin side up. Return the liquid to a boil. Spoon some of the chickpea and fruit mixture over the chicken.

Cover and simmer gently over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 40 minutes or until the chicken is tender. Add more water to the pan during cooking if the mixture seems dry.

Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if you like. With kitchen shears, cut each leg in half. Sprinkle with oregano and serve at once.