Spontaneous Success
An impromptu dinner party calls for a simple menu and a casual approach.
The entertaining we do is very relaxed, especially around holidays. In our experience, the best gatherings happen spontaneously. We run into friends at the movies or out shopping and invite them to drop by the following night that weekend for drinks and a light supper. They show up in jeans, and no one is self-conscious. The menu is simple. Lately, we've been using golden cauliflower (a new variety that keeps its stunning color after cooking) to make an almost instant pureed soup. A baked frittata, kind of dressy omelet with potatoes and mushrooms, is the main course. Add a salad and homemade focaccia, which can be put together the night before, and we're done. Dessert is impromptu. We've been known to offer squares of bittersweet chocolate, which we keep on hand for baking, with steaming cups of espresso. Light the fire and pour the cognac.
GOLDEN CAULIFLOWER SOUP SERVES 8
2 heads golden cauliflower (or use white cauliflower)
1 medium onion, chopped
6 cups chicken stock, or to taste
1/4 cup fresh lemon thyme or thyme leaves
Salt and pepper, to taste
In a large flameproof casserole, combine the cauliflower, onion, stock, 2 tablespoons of the thyme, salt, and pepper. Bring to a boil over medium-low heat. Lower the heat, cover the pan, and simmer the soup for 30 minutes.
In a blender, puree the soup in batches. Return it to the pan.
Return the soup to a boil and add more salt, pepper, and stock, if you like. Ladle the soup into cups, sprinkle each with thyme leaves, and serve at once.
POTATO, MUSHROOM, AND CHEDDAR FRITTATA
SERVES 8
Olive oil (for the pan)
2 medium Yellow Finn or Yukon Gold potatoes
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 Spanish onion, coarsely chopped
10 ounces button mushrooms, thinly sliced
Salt and pepper, to taste
1/2 pound sharp cheddar cheese, thinly sliced
8 eggs
Set the oven at 375 degrees. Oil a 9-inch square glass or ceramic baking dish.
Set a steamer insert in a large saucepan. Add enough water to come up to the insert. Without peeling, cut each potato into 8 thick wedges. Set them in the steamer, cover and steam over high heat for 15 minutes or until tender.
Meanwhile, in a large skillet, heat the oil. When it is hot, cook the onion over medium-high heat, stirring often, for 8 minutes or until it begins to brown. Add the mushrooms with salt and pepper. Cook them over medium heat, stirring often, for 10 minutes or until the mushrooms release their liquid and the liquid evaporates from the skillet. Let cool slightly.
Remove the potatoes from the steamer. When cool enough to handle, use a paring knife to peel off the skins. Set the wedges in the baking dish in one layer. Spread the mushroom mixture on top, letting it fall between the cracks in the potato layer. Arrange the cheese on top in another layer.
In a bowl, beat the eggs with salt and pepper just to mix them. Carefully tip the egg mixture into the baking dish, pouring it first into any spaces at the edges of the filling, then on top of the filling. Let the dish sit for 2 minutes so the eggs can settle.
Set the baking dish on a rimmed baking sheet. Bake the frittata for 40 to 45 minutes or until it is set and golden. Let it sit for 5 minutes before cutting into squares.
ROSEMARY FOCACCIA
SERVES 8
1/2 cup warm (not hot) water
1 package active dry yeast
1 teaspoon sugar
3/4 cup warm (not hot) whole or 2 percent milk
3 tablespoons olive oil
3 3/4 cups flour
1 teaspoon coarse salt
3 tablespoons chopped fresh rosemary
Extra olive oil (for sprinkling)
Extra fl our (for sprinkling)
Extra coarse salt (for top)
In a bowl, place the water, then sprinkle the yeast and sugar on Stir and set aside for 10 minutes.
In an electric mixer with a dough hook (or in a bowl with a wooden spoon), mix the milk and oil with the yeast mixture. Add 2 cups of the flour and the salt and rosemary. Mix at low speed until thoroughly combined. Scrape down the sides of the bowl with a spatula.
Add the remaining fl our 1/2 cup at a time, mixing after each addition, until all of the fl our is incorporated. The dough will be sticky but should pull away from the sides of the bowl.
Turn the machine to mediumhigh and let the dough knead for minutes (or do this by hand).
Lightly oil a large mixing bowl. Turn the dough in this bowl to coat with oil. Cover with a clean towel and set in a warm place for 1 1/2 to 2 hours or until doubled in size. (You can store the dough, covered, in an oiled container and refrigerate overnight.)
On a floured counter, punch down the dough. With a rolling pin, roll the dough to a thick rectangle about 10 inches long. Use your fingers to stretch the dough, working from the center out, to form a rectangle about 12 inches long and 8 inches across.
Oil a rimmed baking sheet. Lift the dough on the rolling pin and transfer it to the sheet. Rub olive oil over the top of the dough. Sprinkle with coarse salt. Set aside for 30 minutes.
Set the oven at 450 degrees. Bake for 20 minutes or until golden and the bread sounds hollow when tapped with your knuckles on the bottom. Transfer to a wire rack to cool. Cut into squares. 