Game Plan

Quesadillas are crowd pleasers, so we were delighted with the tip from Delux Cafe in the South End on how to improve our homemade versions in time for our Super Bowl party. Unless quesadillas were deep-fried, we had found they were usually doughy inside, a problem we couldn't seem to fix. Then one night, Sheryl watched one of the cooks in Delux Cafe's open kitchen prepare the dish. Instead of dutifully oven-warming four tortillas in a stack inside foil before wrapping them around cheese and beans, as we had been taught to do, he heated a wheat tortilla on the griddle until it began to blister on both sides. Then he filled the round with beans and cheese, folded it in half, and put it back on the griddle to cook. The resulting quesadillas were delightfully crisp throughout. At home, a cast-iron skillet replaces the restaurant griddle. We find this tiny extra step makes a huge difference. Try it with jack cheese and black beans, or tomatoes and bacon with cheese, or stack three blistered tortillas in a "cake" with roasted peppers and ham, a solid backfield to get you through the game.

TO HEAT TORTILLAS

Set a cast-iron or other heavy skillet over medium-high heat. Heat the pan until it is hot. Place the tortillas in the pan one at a time. Heat, turning, for 2 minutes or until the round is hot and beginning to blister. Use the tortilla as soon as possible so it doesn't become too hard to fold.

BLACK BEAN AND CHEESE QUESADILLAS
SERVES 6

2 tablespoons olive oil
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 hot chili pepper, cored, seeded, and finely chopped
1/2 cup canned whole tomatoes, crushed in a bowl
1/4 teaspoon ground cumin Salt and black pepper, to taste
2 cans (15 ounces) black beans, drained and rinsed
1/4 cup water
2 tablespoons chopped
fresh cilantro
8 flour tortillas (7-inch size)
2 cups grated jack cheese

In a saucepan, heat the oil. Add the garlic and chili pepper and cook over medium-low heat for 5 minutes, stirring often. Add the tomatoes, cumin, and salt. Continue cooking over medium heat for 5 minutes, stirring often.

Add the beans and water and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to low and cook the beans, stirring occasionally, for 10 minutes. Transfer half of the bean mixture to a large shallow bowl. Using a fork, mash the beans until smooth. Return the puree to the pot of beans.

Stir in the cilantro and black pepper. Taste the beans for seasoning and add more salt, if you like.

Set the oven at 300 degrees. Have on hand a rimmed baking sheet.

Heat the tortillas (see left). Spread the bean mixture on one half of a tortilla. Sprinkle with cheese. Fold over the empty side of the tortilla to make a half-moon. Assemble another tortilla.

Return two folded tortillas to the skillet. Set another skillet on top to weight them. Cook the tortillas over medium heat for 5 minutes, turning often, until the cheese melts at the edges.

Transfer the quesadillas to the baking sheet to keep warm in the oven while you prepare the remaining tortillas two at a time.

Cut each quesadilla into thirds. Serve at once.

TOMATO, BACON, AND CHEESE QUESADILLAS
SERVES 6

8 slices bacon
3 large ripe tomatoes, peeled, cored, seeded, and coarsely chopped
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley
8 flour tortillas (7-inch size)
2 cups grated cheddar cheese

In a large dry skillet over medium heat, render the bacon until crisp, turning it often to brown both sides. Transfer the bacon to a plate lined with paper towels.

In a strainer set over a bowl, let the tomatoes sit for 10 minutes to drain.

Discard the liquid in the bowl. Tip the tomatoes into the bowl. Add salt, pepper, and parsley.

Set the oven at 300 degrees. Have on hand a rimmed baking sheet.

Heat the tortillas (see left). Crumble the bacon and scatter a few pieces on one half of a tortilla. Add 2 tablespoons of the tomato mixture on the same half of the round. Sprinkle with cheese. Fold over the empty side of the tortilla to make a half-moon. Assemble another tortilla.

Return two folded tortillas to the skillet. Set another skillet on top to weight them. Cook the tortillas over medium heat for 5 minutes, turning often, until the cheese melts at the edges.

Transfer the quesadillas to the baking sheet to keep warm in the oven while you prepare the remaining tortillas two at a time.

Cut each quesadilla into thirds. Serve at once.

TRIPLE-LAYER TORTILLA " CAKE" WITH HAM AND ROASTED PEPPERS
SERVES 4

3 flour tortillas (7-inch size)
4 slices Black Forest or other flavorful ham
4 canned roasted bell peppers, seeded and cut into quarters
1 1/2 cups grated jack or cheddar cheese
Salt and black pepper, to taste

Set the oven at 400 degrees. Have on hand a rimmed baking sheet.

Heat the tortillas (see left). Set a tortilla on the baking sheet. Cover the tortilla with half of the ham. Add a layer of roasted peppers, cheese, salt, and pepper.

Set another tortilla on top, with another layer of ham, roasted peppers, cheese, salt, and black pepper. Press the third tortilla on top.

Transfer to the oven and bake the tortillas for 10 minutes or until the rounds are very crisp and the cheese is melting at the edges. Transfer the cake to a cutting board and cut it into wedges. Serve at once.