Fancy That

What's in a name? A pork chop, for instance, sounds too ordinary for a celebratory dinner. Call it a pork T-bone, and it's suddenly a fancy cut of meat. Turn a lamb loin chop into a baby lamb T-bone and that, too, sounds intriguing. Both are easy on the cook, who can enhance their flavor and tenderness - and trim last-minute prep time - by marinating them overnight. Sirloin tips - a cut that's improved with a spicy Asian marinade - also will make an impressive entree for a weekday birthday menu or impromptu dinner party. While guests are standing around the kitchen sipping wine and nibbling cheese, slide the meat into a hot oven or under the broiler and plate the food in the kitchen. Just remember to tell diners what they're eating, or they may think it's just a pork chop.

PORK T-BONES WITH CARAMELIZED PEAR SAUCE
SERVES 6

1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary
2 tablespoons chopped fresh sage
1/2 teaspoon salt, or to taste
1/4 teaspoon pepper, or to taste
3 tablespoons olive oil
6 thick pork loin chops
1 tablespoon butter
2 red Bartlett or Bosc pears, peeled and cut into thick slices
1/2 cup chicken stock
2 tablespoons heavy cream

In a small bowl, combine the rosemary, sage, salt, and pepper.

Use 1 tablespoon of the oil to rub the chops on both sides. Sprinkle them with the rosemary mixture and transfer to a dish large enough to hold them in one layer. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or for up to a day.

Set the oven at 450 degrees. In a large cast-iron or other heavy skillet, heat 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add 3 of the pork chops and brown over medium-high heat for 3 minutes on a side. Use the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil to brown the remaining 3 pork chops.

Transfer the pork chops to a roasting pan.

Add the butter to the skillet, and when it melts, cook the pears with salt and pepper over medium heat, stirring often, for 5 minutes.

Scatter the pears around the chops and transfer the roasting pan to the oven.

Roast the chops for 10 minutes or until they are cooked through but still a little pink in the center. A meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the chops will register 155 degrees. Set the pork in a warm place; the temperature will rise a few degrees.

Pour the stock into the skillet and bring to a boil. Let it bubble steadily for 3 minutes, until it reduces slightly. Stir in the cream.

Transfer 1 pork chop to each of 6 warm plates. Tip the pears and any juices in the pan into the cream sauce. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if you like. Spoon the pear sauce over the chops and serve at once.

BABY LAMB T-BONES WITH OREGANO-MUSTARD SAUCE
SERVES 4

Dried Greek oregano, available at Greek and other ethnic markets, is livelier and woodsier than ordinary oregano. Some lamb loin chops are quite skimpy. While two per person is usually ample, if the chops are tiny triangles, buy a couple extra.

Juice of 1/2 lemon
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
1 teaspoon dried Greek oregano
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon pepper, or to taste
8 thick lamb loin chops
4 sprigs fresh parsley, leaves only Pared rind of 1 lemon
1/2 teaspoon coarse sea salt

In a bowl, mix together the lemon juice, oil, mustard, oregano, garlic, kosher salt, and pepper.

Set the lamb chops in a baking dish large enough to hold them in one layer. Spread both sides with the mustard mixture. Cover the dish with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or for up to a day.

Turn on the broiler. Place a rack about 6 inches from the element. Transfer the lamb chops to a rack set in a roasting pan. Broil the chops for 5 minutes on a side or until the outside is slightly charred and the inside is pink and juicy.

Meanwhile, finely chop the parsley and lemon rind together. Arrange 2 chops on each of 4 warm plates. Sprinkle them with the parsley mixture, extra pepper, and sea salt. Serve at once.

STEAK TIPS WITH SOY-CHILI MARINADE
SERVES 6

Tenderloin might be the most tender - and most expensive - beef cut, but sirloin tips are much more flavorful and much less expensive.

2 pounds sirloin tips Salt and pepper, to taste
1/4 cup soy sauce
2 tablespoons seasoned rice vinegar
2 tablespoons sweet chili sauce
2 scallions, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped

Place the steak tips in a baking dish large enough to hold them in one layer. Sprinkle them all over with salt and pepper.

In a bowl, combine the soy sauce, vinegar, chili sauce, scallions, and garlic. Pour the mixture over the sirloin tips and turn them to coat well all over. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 4 hours or for up to a day, turning the steak tips in the marinade several times.

Turn on the broiler. Place a rack about 10 inches from the element. Remove the steak tips from the marinade and set the meat on a rack in a roasting pan.

Broil the meat for 5 minutes. Turn the pieces and continue cooking for 3 to 5 minutes or until they are browned at the edges and still pink in the center. A meat thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the beef will register 140 degrees.

Serve at once with mashed potatoes.