Another Side

Though we're big fans of roasted root vegetables, by this time of year, we're ready for something fresh and green to brighten the side of our winter plates. Baby bok choy, with its fluttery dark leaves and crunchy texture, fills the spot. The bulb-shaped heads can be stir-fried in peanut oil with garlic and ginger, then presented with a drizzle of dark sesame oil. The winter standby, carrots, can be made into a sweet side. Just cut them into coin-sized disks, enhance their sweetness with a spoonful of sugar, add crystallized ginger for depth, butter for richness, and let them bubble in a pot of water. Or turn woefully plain celeriac, a variety of celery whose roots taste faintly like ordinary salad stalks, lush in a mustard-mayo dressing. Our favorite winter veg is red cabbage, which becomes faintly sweet-sour with balsamic vinegar, crushed red pepper, and sugar. Pass it with roasted meats or poultry, or promote it from side to center.

STIR-FRIED BOK CHOY
SERVES 4

12 baby bok choy
2 tablespoons peanut oil
2 cloves garlic, halved
1 thick slice fresh ginger
Salt, to taste
1 tablespoon water
Dash of dark sesame oil
(for sprinkling)

Make a tiny trim from the stem end of each bok choy, leaving most of it intact. In a large skillet, heat the peanut oil and when it is hot, add the garlic and ginger. Stir-fry for 1 minute. Add the boy choy and sprinkle with salt. Cook it for 1 minute, turning once.

Add the water, cover the pan, and steam for 3 minutes, turning once, or until it is bright green and cooked through, but still crisp. Arrange on a platter, sprinkle with sesame oil, and serve at once.

GLAZED CARROT COINS
SERVES 4

1 pound carrots, cut into
1/2-inch-thick rounds
2 tablespoons butter
2 teaspoons sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/4 cup crystallized ginger, cut into matchsticks
3 cups water
Pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon chopped fresh parsley

In a saucepan that holds the carrots snugly, combine the carrots, butter, sugar, salt, ginger, and water. Add enough additional water to come up to the level of the carrots.

Bring the water to a boil, lower the heat, and cover the pan. Cook for 8 minutes or until the carrots are not quite tender.

Remove the cover, turn up the heat, and let the liquid bubble steadily for 8 to 10 minutes or until the carrots have absorbed all of the liquid and are cooked through. Near the end of cooking, shake the pan constantly to prevent the carrots from sticking to the pan.

Taste for seasoning and add pepper and more salt, if you like. Transfer to a bowl, sprinkle with parsley, and serve at once.

CELERIAC REMOULADE
SERVES 4

2 celery roots
Salt and pepper, to taste
3 teaspoons cider vinegar
1/2 cup mayonnaise
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons chopped
fresh parsley
1 tablespoon capers

Peel the celery roots, halve them, and cut each half into 1/4-inch slices. Stack several of the slices and cut through them to make matchsticks. Bring a saucepan of salted water to a boil. Add 1 teaspoon of the vinegar and the celery matchsticks. Cook for 2 minutes. Drain them into a colander and rinse with cold water. Spread the matchsticks on paper towels and pat them dry.

In a large bowl, whisk the mayonnaise, salt, pepper, mustard, and remaining 2 teaspoons of vinegar until smooth. Use a spoon to stir in 1 tablespoon of the parsley, the capers, salt, and pepper. Add the matchsticks and gently but thoroughly mix them with the sauce. Transfer to a bowl, sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon of parsley, and cover with plastic wrap. Refrigerate for 30 minutes or for up to 2 hours before serving.

RED CABBAGE WITH CARAWAY AND GREEN APPLES
SERVES 4

1 tablespoon caraway seeds
2 tablespoons canola oil
2 shallots, finely chopped
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 medium red cabbage, quartered, cored, and thinly sliced
1/4 cup chicken stock or water
2 Granny Smith apples, peeled, quartered, and thinly sliced
2 tablespoons balsamic
vinegar
2 tablespoons sugar
Pinch of crushed red pepper Salt and black pepper, to taste

In a large heavy skillet over medium heat, toast the caraway seeds, shaking the pan constantly, for 2 to 3 minutes or until they turn fragrant. Set them aside.

In the same skillet, heat the oil. Add the shallots and cook over medium heat for 3 minutes, stirring often, or until they soften. Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 30 seconds more.

Stir in the cabbage. Cook over medium heat, stirring often, for 5 minutes. Add the caraway seeds, stock or water, apples, vinegar, sugar, red pepper, salt, and black pepper. Stir well.

Cover the pan and cook the cabbage over medium-low heat, stirring occasionally, for 45 minutes, or until the cabbage softens. During the last 15 minutes, remove the lid and let the liquid bubble until it nearly evaporates. Taste for seasoning and add more salt or red pepper, if you like.