A Tip of the Cap
A dark, intense mushroom ragout can bring a little intrigue to the table.
Dishes that make their way around the restaurant circuit often suffer from diner ennui. How many times can you eat the same menu item and still be thrilled? That’s not a problem with mushroom ragout; there’s no boredom when it comes to this dark, potent stew. With their spongelike texture, mushrooms can pick up the flavor of wine, sherry, or Marsala, but also have a woodsy flavor all their own. Some, like portobellos, can give the whole stew an inky color, so we leave them out and saute them separately to serve as a side dish with arugula leaves. Serve the ragout with roast chicken or pork and mashed sweet potatoes. Or add it to a pot of turkey stew to change a mild white dish into an intriguing entree.
MUSHROOM RAGOUT
SERVES 4
2 tablespoons butter
2 shallots, finely chopped
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
¼ pound oyster mushrooms, coarsely chopped
¼ pound shiitake mushroom caps, thinly sliced
¼ pound button mushrooms, coarsely chopped
¼ pound crimini mushrooms, coarsely chopped
Salt and pepper, to taste
½ cup white wine
2 tablespoons fresh parsley, chopped
In a heavy-based skillet, melt the butter. When it is foaming, add the shallots. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring often, for 5 minutes or until they are tender.
Add the garlic and cook, stirring, for 1 minute. Add the oyster, shiitake, button, and crimini mushrooms to the pan with plenty of salt and pepper. Stir well.
Cook over medium heat for 10 minutes or until the mushrooms give up some of their liquid.
Add the wine to the pan, turn up the heat, and, shaking the pan often, let the mixture bubble gently until the liquid evaporates.
Sprinkle with parsley and serve at once.
VEAL MARSALA WITH
MUSHROOM RAGOUT
SERVES 4
1 recipe mushroom ragout (see above)
1 cup Marsala
1¾ pounds veal cutlets or skinless boneless chicken breasts, thinly sliced
½ cup flour
Salt and pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons heavy cream
2 tablespoons fresh parsley, finely chopped
Make the mushroom ragout, but don’t sprinkle with the parsley.
Pour the Marsala into the ragout and bring to a boil. Let the mixture bubble gently until the Marsala reduces by half. Transfer the mushroom mixture to a bowl; set aside.
Wipe out the skillet.
Place the veal or chicken between layers of plastic wrap. Using the side of a cleaver or a cast-iron skillet, pound the meat until it is ¼-inch thick. Place the flour, salt, and pepper in a large, shallow bowl. Coat the veal or chicken on both sides, patting off the excess.
Heat the skillet. Add 1 tablespoon of the oil. Add half of the chicken or veal, or enough to fill – but not crowd – the pan. Brown the meat over medium-high heat for 2 minutes on each side or until it is golden and cooked through. Transfer the meat to a platter.
Cook the rest of the meat in the remaining 1 tablespoon of oil in the same way, and then add it to the platter.
Return the mushroom mixture to the pan. Turn the heat to high. Cook, scraping up any brown bits clinging to the bottom of the pan, until the mixture comes to a boil. Lower the heat, stir in the cream, and taste for seasoning. Add more salt and pepper, if you like.
Return the meat with any liquid on the platter to the sauce, spooning the mushroom mixture over the meat. Heat just until the meat is hot. Sprinkle with parsley and serve at once.
TURKEY STEW WITH
MUSHROOM RAGOUT
SERVES 4
2½ pounds boneless turkey breast
1 tablespoon canola oil
2 onions, each cut into 8 wedges
4 tablespoons butter
Salt and pepper, to taste
3 tablespoons flour
2 cups chicken stock
1 cup water
1 recipe mushroom ragout (see left), omitting parsley
Peel off the turkey skin. Cut the meat along its natural lines into 3-inch pieces.
In a skillet, heat the oil. Add the onions and cook until they are browned on all sides. Remove them from the pan.
Add the butter to the pan. Add the turkey and sprinkle with salt and pepper. Cook for 2 minutes, then turn and cook the other side. Remove the turkey from the pan.
Sprinkle the flour into the pan. Cook, stirring, until the flour begins to brown. Pour in the stock and water. Let the liquids come to a boil and cook, stirring constantly to release the sediment in the pan. Return the onions and turkey to the pan. Let the mixture return to a boil. Lower the heat, partially cover the pan, and simmer the stew for 30 minutes or until the turkey is cooked through.
Stir the mushroom ragout into the pan. Let the stew simmer for 5 minutes more. Taste for seasoning, add more salt and pepper, if you like, and serve at once.
PORTOBELLO MUSHROOMS WITH ARUGULA
SERVES 4
4 tablespoons olive oil
8 portobello mushroom caps
Salt and black pepper, to taste
½ cup balsamic vinegar
Pinch of sugar
Pinch of crushed red pepper
¼ pound baby arugula
2 tablespoons chopped fresh thyme
¼ cup freshly shaved or grated Parmesan
In a large, heavy skillet, heat 2 tablespoons of oil. Add the mushrooms, stem end down, sprinkle with salt and black pepper, and cook over medium-high heat for 5 minutes, turning often, or until the mushrooms are tender. Transfer the mushrooms to a bowl.
Pour the vinegar into the skillet. Add the sugar and red pepper. Bring to a boil. Lower the heat and let the mixture bubble until it reduces to ¼ cup. Stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil and heat through.
Divide the arugula among 4 salad plates. Top with mushrooms and juices from the skillet. Sprinkle with thyme and Parmesan cheese. Serve at once. 