From Tart to Finish

Tarts are time-consuming, but look what you get: buttery pastry spread with sauteed vegetables held together by an eggy custard. Short of using ready-made pastry, there aren't many quick routes for making the crust. So, we simplify the filling by using only one vegetable. A favorite no-fuss mixture consists of nothing but onions, a little salt and pepper, and some butter cooked in a skillet. Such a spare filling lets the pastry really shine. Sometimes we roll the dough into a rectangle and then cut the cooked tart into elegant bands. Or we make a small round of pastry, add an extra egg and cream for a deeper filling, and cut the tart into wedges. Even with the simplest ingredients, the finished dish always draws raves.

PASTRY TIP

A thin tart doesn't need preliminary baking, but to avoid a soggy bottom crust, a deeper one does. Bake the unfilled pastry on a baking sheet until it is almost cooked through. When the filling goes into the tart, the hot baking sheet helps set the custard before it has a chance to make the dough moist.

SAVORY TART PASTRY
MAKES ENOUGH FOR 1 RECTANGLE, 2 6-INCH ROUNDS, OR 1 DEEP 8-INCH ROUND

2 cups flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
10 tablespoons butter, cut up
1 tablespoon sugar
1 egg yolk
1/4 cup heavy cream
1 teaspoon distilled white
vinegar
1 teaspoon water (optional)
Extra flour (for shaping)

In a food processor, pulse the flour and salt to combine them. Scatter the butter on top of the flour and pulse again just until the mixture forms coarse crumbs. Sprinkle the sugar on the mixture and pulse twice to mix.

In a small bowl, use a fork to mix the yolk, cream, and vinegar. Sprinkle the liquid over the flour mixture. Pulse several times just until the dough forms large clumps; do not let it come together to form a ball. Add 1 teaspoon of water, if necessary, to form clumps.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured counter. With a pastry scraper or blunt knife, cut through the dough a half -dozen times. Continue cutting until the dough is moist enough to come together.

Shape the dough into a flat round, wrap it in foil, and refrigerate for 30 minutes.

Use as directed.

ONION TART
SERVES 6

In Alsace, this thin tart is made with bacon and comes as a small round. We prefer to shape the dough into a long rectangle, which makes an impressive presentation.

2 tablespoons butter
2 large sweet onions, halved and thinly sliced
Salt and pepper, to taste
1 recipe savory tart pastry (see left)
1 egg, lightly beaten
3 tablespoons heavy cream
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme

In a large skillet, melt the butter. Add the onions, salt, and pepper. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring often, for 15 minutes. Turn the heat to medium-high and continue cooking, stirring often, for 15 minutes or until the onions turn golden.

Set the oven at 375 degrees.

Line an unrimmed baking sheet with parchment paper.

On a lightly floured counter, roll the dough into a rectangle. Try to make it about 15 inches long, but 12 inches is fine; it should be 5 to 6 inches wide. Lift the pastry onto the rolling pin and transfer it to the baking sheet.

Using a fluted ravioli cutter or pizza wheel or a long straight-edge chef's knife, trim the edges to make an even rectangle. Turn the edges in to make a raised border. Press the tines of a fork onto the border, dipping them into the flour when necessary.

In a large measuring cup, use a fork to beat the egg, cream, salt, and pepper. Spread the onion mixture on the pastry. Carefully pour the egg mixture onto the onions.

Bake for 30 to 35 minutes or until the pastry is golden.

Sprinkle the onion filling with thyme. Slide the tart onto a long cutting board. Cut it crosswise into rectangles. Serve at once or leave to cool and serve at room temperature.

ONION QUICHE
SERVES 6

1 recipe savory tart pastry (see left)
1 recipe onion tart (see left), made with 2 eggs and 1/2 cup heavy cream Dried beans (for pastry weights)

Set the oven at 375 degrees. Line an unrimmed baking sheet with parchment paper. Set a deep 8-inch French tart pan with removable base onto the paper.

On a lightly floured counter, roll the dough into a 10-inch round. Lift it onto the rolling pin and ease it into the tart pan. The edges of the pastry will stand vertically inside the fluted edges of the pan. With a scissors, cut the excess pastry even all around, leaving a 1/2-inch border still standing. Turn the extra pastry in like a hem; the edge should be smooth. With your fingers, press the hem against the fluted edge of the pan.

Cover the dough with parchment paper and top with dried beans for baking. Bake the dough for 20 minutes. Lift out the parchment paper and beans. Continue baking the dough for 15 minutes.

Spread the onions in the pastry. Cover with the egg mixture. Bake for 25 minutes more or until the egg mixture is set.

Set the tart on a 6-inch bowl and let the rim of the pan drop. Sprinkle with thyme.

Transfer the tart to a board. Serve at once or leave to cool and serve at room temperature.