Muscle Greens

Hearty leafy greens are nothing like salad greens. Where tender lettuces go from the salad spinner to the serving bowl, Swiss chard or kale usually needs blanching and a quick saute in a hot skillet. Their denser texture makes them chewier and in some ways more satisfying. Kale, simmered in broth with cannellini beans, then ladled over thick slices of toast, is soup that has fed European farmers for hundreds of years. Today, the same bowl, drizzled with good olive oil, is offered on expensive menus. Some greens, such as chicory, have a slightly bitter taste, so we add sweetness with bell pepper and golden raisins and toss the leaves with an intense balsamic vinaigrette. The long-stemmed greens require care in preparation, but most foods that are so inexpensive and rib-sticking do. The greens can be sandy and require a plunge or two in a sink full of water. But they can make you forget that mesclun mix ever came to town.

KALE AND WHITE BEAN SOUP
SERVES 6

1 tablespoon olive oil
1 tablespoon butter
1 Spanish onion, finely chopped
1 large carrot, coarsely chopped
Salt and black pepper, to taste
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
1 tablespoon chopped fresh rosemary
1 bunch kale, stems and ribs removed, leaves chopped
6 cups chicken stock
2 cans (15 ounces each) cannellini beans, rinsed and drained
1/8 teaspoon crushed red pepper
6 slices hearty bread, toasted
1 cup freshly grated Parmesan Extra olive oil
(for sprinkling)

In a large flameproof casserole, heat the oil. When it is hot, add the butter. Add the onion, carrot, salt, and black pepper. Cook over medium-high heat for 10 minutes, stirring often, or until the vegetables soften. Stir in the garlic and rosemary and cook for 1 minute.

Add the kale and cook, stirring often, for 5 minutes. Pour in the stock and bring to a boil. Turn the heat to medium-low and simmer for 15 minutes.

Meanwhile, on a plate with a fork, mash 1/2 cup of the beans until they are almost smooth. Stir the mashed and whole beans and the red pepper into the soup. Continue simmering over low heat, stirring occasionally, for 20 minutes. Taste for seasoning and add more salt and pepper, if you like.

To serve: Set a slice of toast in each of 6 large shallow soup bowls. Ladle the soup on top. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and some olive oil. Serve at once.

SAUTEED GREENS
SERVES 4

1 bunch fresh kale or chard, stems and ribs removed
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 small red chili pepper, seeded and thinly sliced
1 clove garlic, sliced
Salt, to taste
1 lemon, halved

Bring a large pot of water to a boil. Set a colander over a bowl.

Drop in the kale or chard into the boiling water. When it wilts, use tongs to transfer it to the colander. Rinse with cold water until the leaves are cold. Squeeze the greens in your hands to remove the excess water.

In a large skillet, heat the oil, add the kale, chili pepper, garlic, and salt. Cook over medium-high heat, tossing the kale constantly with the tongs, for 5 minutes or until the greens are cooked through. Sprinkle with lemon juice and serve at once.

SWISS CHARD WITH BOW TIES AND GOAT CHEESE
SERVES 4

Salt and pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons butter
2 cloves garlic, finely chopped
1 bunch Swiss chard, stems and ribs removed, leaves chopped
1/2 teaspoon dried oregano
8 ounces dried bow tie pasta
2 ounces soft goat cheese
3 tablespoons chopped fresh parsley

Bring a large pot of salted water to a boil.

In a large skillet, melt the butter. Add the garlic and cook over medium heat, stirring often, for 1 minute. Add the chard, oregano, salt, and pepper. Cook over medium-low heat, stirring often, for 20 minutes.

Drop the pasta into the boiling water and stir often until the water returns to a boil. Cook the pasta for 10 minutes or until it is tender but still has some bite. Dip a glass measuring cup into the pasta water and remove 1/2 cup.

Drain the pasta into a colander and return it to the pot. Stir in the Swiss chard mixture and goat cheese. If it seems too dry, add about 2 tablespoons of pasta water or enough to make the consistency you like. The pasta should be moist, but the dish shouldn't be soupy. Add more salt and pepper, if you like. Sprinkle with parsley and serve at once.

CHICORY SALAD WITH ALMONDS AND RAISINS
SERVES 4

1 head chicory, cored, stems removed, and leaves torn into bite-size pieces
1/2 small sweet onion, thinly sliced
1 yellow bell pepper, cored, seeded, and thinly sliced
1/4 cup golden raisins
1/2 cup slivered almonds, toasted until brown
Salt and black pepper, to taste
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons olive oil
1 teaspoon honey

In a salad bowl, combine the chicory, onion, bell pepper, raisins, and almonds.

In a small mixing bowl, whisk salt, black pepper, and vinegar until the salt dissolves. Dip a 1-teaspoon measuring spoon into the olive oil. Use the spoon to measure the honey (the oil prevents the honey from sticking).

Whisk the honey into the dressing. Slowly whisk in the oil.

Add 2 tablespoons of the dressing to the salad and toss gently. Add enough of the remaining dressing, a spoonful at a time, until the leaves are coated. Add more salt and black pepper, if you like. Serve at once.

CLEAN GREENS

When you soak sandy greens, the grit falls to the bottom of the bowl or sink. When you lift the greens from the water, you leave the sand behind, but not necessarily all of it. So repeat the process, if necessary.