Summertime Blues

It's June, and the bluefish are back. In the winter, they migrate south, but come summertime, the New England coast is their hangout. In the wild, these vigorous, toothy fish are perpetually hungry - there's nothing quite like witnessing a school of bluefish in a feeding frenzy. The fish have razor-sharp teeth that they're not afraid to use. They'll bite through monofilament fishing line, so smart anglers know to use a steel leader. Sport fishermen love blues because they fight like crazy on the hook. Many people think blues are strong on the plate, too. The meat is smooth, dense, and rich, with beneficial omega-3 fatty acids and other oils that give it character. However, fishermen say that if the fish isn't processed - that is, bled, gutted, and filleted - quickly after it's caught, the flavors of the oils intensify, which is why some people think bluefish tastes "fishy."

If it's handled correctly and eaten the same day you buy (or catch) it, bluefish is rich and meaty but not strong. In fact, bluefish is great fun to cook and eat precisely because its flavor is so rich. It pairs well with sharp, assertive counterpoints like vinegar, white wine, tomatoes, mustard, or citrus and full-flavored partners such as bacon, garlic, onions, soy, and pungent herbs.

PAN-FRIED BLUEFISH WITH BACON AND PICKLED RED ONION
SERVES 4

1 teaspoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt, plus more for seasoning
1/4 teaspoon pepper, plus more for seasoning
1/2 cup cider vinegar
1/2 medium red onion, sliced very thin
2 pounds bluefish fillets, skinned and cut into
4 equal pieces
2 teaspoons olive oil
8 slices bacon
Parsley sprigs or chives (for garnish)

Half an hour before serving time, mix the sugar, 1/2 teaspoon salt, 1/4 teaspoon pepper, and vinegar in a nonreactive bowl. Boil a kettle of water. In a colander set in the sink, lay the sliced onion and pour the boiling water over it. Toss the warm onion slices in the vinegar mixture, add enough cold water to cover (about 1 cup), and let stand until the onions are softened slightly, about 30 minutes.

Rub each piece of fish all over with 1/2 teaspoon of oil and sprinkle them lightly with salt and pepper. Lay 2 slices of bacon right next to each other on a work surface. Place a piece of fish across the center of the bacon slices, and wrap the bacon around the fish so that the ends of the slices overlap. Repeat with the remaining bacon and fish.

In a large skillet over medium-high heat, cook the bacon-wrapped fish until the bacon is golden brown on both sides and the fish is just cooked through, about 4 minutes per side. Garnish with some of the pickled red onions and parsley or chives and serve at once.

BROILED MUSTARD-CRUSTED BLUEFISH
SERVES 4

2 teaspoons canola or other vegetable oil
2 pounds bluefish fillets, skinned and cut into 4 equal pieces
Salt and pepper, to taste
5 tablespoons mayonnaise
3 tablespoons grainy mustard
2 cloves garlic, pressed or chopped very fine
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme Chopped fresh parsley (for garnish)

Preheat the broiler. Line a heavy-duty baking sheet with foil, and coat the foil with oil.

Place the fish on the foil-lined baking sheet and sprinkle with salt and pepper. In a bowl, mix mayonnaise, mustard, garlic, and thyme, and spread the mixture evenly on each piece of fish. Broil the fish about 6 inches from the element until the flesh is just cooked through and the coating is well browned, 8 to 10 minutes. Garnish with chopped parsley and serve at once.

SMOKED BLUEFISH PATE
MAKES ABOUT 2 CUPS

Smoked bluefish is available at many fish markets and specialty food stores. Adding some at the end of the preparation gives the pate a slightly chunky texture. This recipe gets plenty of salt from the fish and the Worcestershire, but feel free to adjust the seasoning to your taste.

8 ounces cream cheese, at room temperature
1/2 small onion, chopped very fine (about 5 tablespoons)
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
2 teaspoons lemon juice, or more to taste
1/2 teaspoon Worcestershire sauce
1/4 teaspoon hot pepper sauce (optional)
1/2 teaspoon ground black pepper
8 ounces smoked bluefish, broken into small flakes Crackers (for serving)

In a food processor, process the cream cheese, 4 tablespoons of the onion, 1 1/2 tablespoons of the dill, lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce, hot pepper sauce, if using, black pepper, and two-thirds of the bluefish, stopping to scrape down sides of bowl as necessary, until the mixture is smooth.

Adjust the seasoning with additional lemon juice to taste, add the remaining bluefish, and pulse two or three times, just until combined.

Transfer the mixture to a serving bowl, garnish with the remaining chopped onion and dill, and serve with crackers. You can also cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for up to 3 days.