A Stout Chicken

Every dad deserves something special on Father's Day. Whether you fete him with an elaborate celebration or a simple homemade card and a six-pack of his favorite beer, a grill-cooked meal is just the treat to seal the deal. Swipe one of the brews to make him a smoky, spicy beer-can chicken. Out on the championship barbecue circuit, beer-can chicken, a.k.a. chicken on a throne, is well known, but among home cooks, it's something of an oddity - you don't see a chicken standing up on a can of beer very often. The idea is to infuse the bird with the beer. This is facilitated by inserting an open can of the stuff into the cavity of the bird. Can you really taste the beer? That's debatable, but this unusual method does deliver the holy grail of chicken cookery - juicy, succulent meat and brown, crisp skin. Flavor from wood smoke is also critical to this preparation. Aromatic wood chunks and chips such as Weber FireSpice brand are generally available at hardware stores that sell grills and grilling equipment. Use chunks for a charcoal grill and chips, placed in a small aluminum tray (that you can fashion yourself from a sheet of heavy-duty aluminum foil, if need be), for a gas grill.

BEER-CAN CHICKEN ON THE GRILL
SERVES 4

The overall length of the chicken is important, since the bird will have to stand vertically in a covered grill. Most gas grills have ample space, but my charcoal grill has only 8 inches between the cooking grate and the cover, so the chicken cannot be longer than 8 inches. Most 3 1/2- to 4-pound chickens are the right size, but the 4 1/2 pounder I measured was almost 9 inches.

3 large (about 4 inches long) wood chunks (for a charcoal grill) or 3 cups wood chips (for a gas grill)
1 12-ounce can of beer
1 small aluminum tray or 1 large sheet heavy-duty aluminum foil, if using a gas grill
1 tablespoon brown sugar
1 tablespoon sweet paprika
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon kosher or other coarse salt
1 teaspoon black pepper
2 teaspoons ground cumin
1/2 teaspoon onion powder Pinch cayenne pepper
1 whole chicken (31/2 to 4 pounds), giblets removed and fat deposits near cavity openings trimmed

One hour before cooking, place wood chunks or chips in a small bowl and pour half of the beer over them. Add enough water to cover the wood and let soak until ready to use. Use a church-key opener to punch two or three more holes in the top of the beer can; set aside.

Prepare a charcoal grill. When the coals are covered with gray ash, push them to one side. Place the soaked wood chunks directly on the coals, set the grate in place, cover, and let the grill heat for 5 minutes. For a gas grill, place the tray of wood chips directly on the primary burner, turn all burners to high, and close the lid for 10 minutes; turn off all but the primary burner and adjust that to maintain the temperature at 350 degrees.

Meanwhile, mix the brown sugar, paprika, salt, black pepper, cumin, onion powder, and cayenne pepper in a small bowl. Set the chicken on a cutting board and rub inside and out with the spice mixture. Pour any remaining spice mixture into the beer can.

Hold the chicken upright and carefully slide the beer can, holes on top, into the chicken cavity; set the chicken on the cool side of the grill (opposite the fire or burner), using the can and drumsticks to balance it tripod-style on grate (see below). Close the cover (for a charcoal grill, open the cover vents halfway and position them over the chicken) and roast, rotating the chicken 180 degrees halfway through cooking, until the skin is deep brown and crisp and a thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the thigh registers about 175 degrees, 1 to 1 1/4 hours.

Holding large wads of paper towels to protect your hands, lift the chicken and can off the grill and set upright on a platter, tent with foil, and let rest about 10 minutes. Again using wads of paper towels, carefully remove the can without spilling the contents and discard. Carve the chicken and serve.

DOUBLE ONION GRILLED POTATO SALAD
SERVES 4

If using long bamboo skewers, cut them to fit in the pot before threading potatoes onto them.

2 pounds new potatoes (about 2 inches around), halved
1 tablespoon plus 1 teaspoon salt
2/3 cup sour cream
1/3 cup mayonnaise
2 tablespoons grainy mustard Pepper, to taste
2 tablespoons olive oil
1/2 small red onion, finely chopped (about 1/2 cup)
6 scallions, white and green parts thinly sliced (about 1/2 cup), 1 tablespoon reserved

Prepare a charcoal grill. When the coals are covered with gray ash, push them to one side, set the grate in place, cover, and let the grill heat for 5 minutes. For a gas grill, turn all burners to high, close the lid to preheat for 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, in a Dutch oven or other wide pot, bring 4 quarts of water to a boil. Thread the potato halves onto bamboo skewers, cut sides facing in the same direction. Add 1 tablespoon of salt and the skewered potatoes to the water and boil until the potatoes are just tender (the tip of a paring knife inserted into the potato will meet slight resistance).

While the potatoes boil, mix the sour cream, mayonnaise, mustard, pepper, and 1/2 teaspoon of salt in a medium bowl. Use tongs to remove the skewered potatoes from the pot, reserving 3 tablespoons of the potato water. After the water has cooled briefly, stir it into the sour-cream mixture and set aside. Allow moisture to evaporate from the potatoes for a moment, leaving them on the skewers, then brush them all over with oil and sprinkle with pepper and the remaining 1/2 teaspoon of salt.

Grill the skewered potatoes directly over heat, turning occasionally, until well browned on all sides, 6 to 8 minutes. Transfer the skewers to a cutting board, slide the potatoes off, and cut the potato halves in half again. Add the potatoes, red onion, and the larger portion of scallions to the sour-cream mixture and stir to coat the vegetables. Sprinkle with the reserved tablespoon of scallions and serve at once. Or cover and refrigerate for up to 2 days. Return to room temperature before serving.