At Your Service

Ten Tables

Ten isn't a lot of tables, and two isn't a lot of waiters. But at the tiny Ten Tables in Jamaica Plain, a duo of servers (and on some nights, only one) tend to the guests and somehow manage to pay each just the right amount of attention. It's a feat that seems to elude many restaurants with larger wait staff s, but economy is a strong suit here - the four-course vegetarian tasting menu for $25 and the $39 wine dinner (four courses, four glasses) are some of the best deals in town. The food - from homemade charcuterie and pasta to seasonal soups (a chilled basil and zucchini with poached shrimp was recently on the menu) - is soulful, well executed, and just inventive enough.

* $16-$21; 597 Centre Street, Jamaica Plain, 617-524-8810, tentables.net

Lala Rokh

There are those restaurants where you walk in and have to shout to be heard, and there are those where the pretentiousness makes you feel as though if you talk at all, everyone will stare at you. And then there is Lala Rokh. This Persian gem on Beacon Hill strikes the perfect balance between romantic and affordable, quiet and welcoming, and the reason is that Azita Bina-Seibel and Babak Bina, the sister-and-brother owners, understand that the combination of friendly, helpful, unintrusive service and mouthwatering plates of roasted eggplant and slow-cooked beef, veal, lamb, and chicken will never fail to please.

Poppa B's

Aside from the creamy grits, sweet iced tea, buttery corn bread, and crisp fried chicken, this newcomer to Boston's small soul-food cadre offers the friendliest service this side of the Mason-Dixon Line. On Mother's Day, each woman was presented with a red rose. On Father's Day, the waitresses chirped a hearty congratulations to each man. Owner Boyce Slayman Sr., who runs Poppa B's with his son, will give his regulars a hug or a handshake. He'll also pour your coffee and recommend his favorites (he was right about the smothered pork chops). The vibe here is laid-back and casual; it's a good place to linger over the newspaper and coffee - except during the hectic after-church hour.

* $9-$14.50; 1100 Blue Hill Avenue, Dorchester, 617-825-0700, poppab.com

L'Espalier

The fact that a restaurant of L'Espalier's stature provides flawless service isn't shocking. The fact that said service is not at all intimidating might come as a surprise. Here, resident comedian/wine director Erik Johnson trains staffers rigorously so they can help patrons navigate the encyclopedic wine list with ease. Fromager Louis Risoli eagerly and lovingly explains each cheese on his international, artisanal tray. Even the breadbasket - and, oh, what a breadbasket - is presented with sincere exuberance. This revered institution, which is moving around the corner to the Mandarin Oriental hotel next summer, has earned every bit of its reputation for excellence.

* Prix-fixe dinner menus, $75 and up; 30 Gloucester Street, Boston, 617-262-3023, lespalier.com

CK Shanghai

When was the last time you raved about the service in a Chinese restaurant? Typically, what you have is cheap, plentiful, deep-fried food served by wait-staff members who, unless you speak their language, let you yet again order General Gau's chicken. But at CK, waiters and waitresses are precise, knowledgeable, and helpful - they'll point you, for example, to the steamed flounder in ginger, light soy, and cilantro (one of many dishes that are easy on the wallet). Canchuan "Mike" Li, Brandeis librarian by day, restaurant general manager by night, trains the staff and has helped create a rarity: a Chinese restaurant with service equal to the best Chinese food in New England.

* $8.95-$34; 15 Washington Street, Wellesley, 781-237-7500, ckshanghai.com

Il Capriccio

Tour Italy's hidden vineyards at this upscale gem. You'll feel as if you've been invited to a private wine cellar when co-owner and sommelier Jeannie Rogers comes to the table (after you've ordered your meal) to make recommendations. She travels to Italy four times a year, and her discoveries, many from smallproduction vineyards, are reasonably priced, as are the meals. The ricotta cannelloni achieves an airiness atypical of rich pasta dishes, and many of the menu items are available in half-portions. Despite Rogers's knowledge, the service is never snobby. Not only can she nail the bouquet, she'll regale you with the story behind the vintner.

* $16-$35; 888 Main Street, Waltham, 781-894-2234

Salts

Yep, it's a tiny room with just 14 tables, but the staff plentiful. Somehow, the servers never seem to bump elbows while they move fluidly to welcome, and even flatter, guests. Each course is delivered like a gift. The meals are subtly flavored and delectably French - even the white gazpacho was Francofied with garlic and sherry gelee. When we turned down dessert, our handsome waiter nodded knowingly and said with his French accent, "Ah, understand. You are already too sweet." Who wouldn't fall in love here?

* $28-$35; 798 Main Street, Cambridge, 617-876-8444, saltsrestaurant.com

Via Matta

Meticulousness isn't exactly the first thing you'd expect at a restaurant named for lunacy (via matta means "the crazy way" in Italian). And yet, improbably enough, the staff at this high-energy trattoria couldn't be more dedicated - starting with the moment your water glass gets filled (virtually upon sitting). Wine director Marco Deary pours on the charm (and the superlative vintages) right up until you dive into the panna cotta du jour. Thinking of passing up the vanilla-packed version with peaches and pistachios? Now, that's crazy.

* $17-$30; 79 Park Plaza, Boston, 617-422-0008, viamattarestaurant.com

Rendezvous in Central Square

The people running the front of the house here are actual grown-ups. That means they seat parties with reservations quickly, give walk-ins realistic estimates for wait times, and, once you're at your table (or the bar, a surprisingly intimate spot), treat you like a guest. There's no "sparkling or still" water sell, the Mediterranean-influenced menu is informative and precise without being pretentious, and the servers are present without hovering. A shout-out to the bus staff , too, which is just as detail- oriented and helpful as everybody else.

* $18-$26; 502 Massachusetts Avenue, Cambridge, 617-576-1900, rendezvouscentralsquare.com

Ole Mexican Grill

Table-side guacamole handmade on a cart sets the stage for a warm and delicious evening. With several members of chef/ owner Erwin Ramos's family at the host station and on the floor, and the woman making tortillas in plain view, you know you're in good hands. And then there's the food: shrimp tacos to swoon over, quesadillas made from stuffed pockets of masa (not flattened pancakes), and enough interesting and tasty dishes from apps to tapas to specials to keep you coming back. You can end with avocado ice cream as well . . . or maybe a chocolate tamale.

* $15-$28; 11 Springfield Street, Cambridge, 617-492-4495, olegrill.com

The Butcher Shop

The young, stylish servers may look as if they were hired as decoration for the dining room. But ask any of the pretty faces to describe the duck special, to recommend a wine to go with your house-made hot dog, or to tuck your party into a quieter corner, and you'll get straight answers and real help from someone who sincerely wants you to have a great experience. Some crew members moonlight for owner Barbara Lynch's catering company, Niche Catour. And when they see you across a tray of hors d'oeuvres at your company's holiday party rather than across a Butcher Shop menu, they'll smile and acknowledge you're not a stranger.

* $17-$24; 552 Tremont Street, Boston, 617-423-4800, thebutchershopboston.com

Comella's

It was one of those offers that was so nice it caused a double take. "Do you need some milk for her?" The offer came from a counter person at Comella's in West Roxbury who had approached our table to check on us and saw our toddler with her face covered in red sauce. The heaping portions of Italian aside, Comella's (the original one is in West Newton) is friendly, like an affordable, neighborhood restaurant should be. The staff is attentive, helpful, and patient, the atmosphere relaxing, and the freshmade pasta divine.

* $6.99-$15.99; 1844 Centre Street, West Roxbury, 617-327-8600, comellasrestaurant.com

Craigie Street Bistrot

In a chatty mood? Servers at this French-inspired restaurant will happily talk food with you. Prefer a more discreet dinner? You'll get no idle chatter. Members of the wait staff not only can read a table, they can also recite ingredients in each dish plated. They hustle, but never hover or rush. From the smiles, customers can see how proud servers are of the meals they present. Chef and co-owner Tony Maws aims to give everyone - from the vegan to the picky foodie to the allergic diner - a topnotch experience. Small between-course surprises, such as homemade strawberry sorbet topped with a ring of candied fennel, make guests feel like friends of the chef.

* $19-$37; 5 Craigie Circle, Cambridge, 617-497-5511, craigiestreetbistrot.com

Duckworth's Bistrot

There's no water view at this Gloucester restaurant, but it doesn't matter. The intimate atmosphere, excellent food, and impeccable and warm staff make this well worth the hour's drive from Boston. The menu is classic bistro fare with an emphasis on seafood, and chef/owner Ken Duckworth (formerly of Maison Robert) buys local and supports Gloucester fishermen. All glass wine - and here, they really know their wine - is available in two sizes, and nearly all entrees also come as half-plates, so you can mix and match, or eat light and leave room for the banana layer cake.

* $9-$30; 197 East Main Street, Gloucester, 978-282-4426, duckworthsbistrot.com

Brookline Family Restaurant

Everyone has a smile here, from the young waitresses who greet you as you enter, to the customers, happy to delve into the most authentic Turkish cuisine this side of the Mediterranean. A large shepherd's salad, with diced tomatoes, cukes, and onions, is paired with fluffy home-baked bread. Save room for the tasty Iskender kebab, where sliced lamb and pita are topped with a yogurt-and-tomato-puree blend. More smiles appear when the affordable check arrives.

* $5.95-$16.95; 305 Washington Street, Brookline Village, 617-277-4466, brooklinefamilyrestaurant.com

Blue Ginger

Celebrity chefs have the tendency to leave the nest and cash in on their names by opening sister restaurants in New York and Las Vegas. Not Ming Tsai. On most Saturday nights, he can be seen working in the open kitchen, taking breaks to mingle with the clientele. Better yet, service at this Wellesley mainstay (turning 10 next February) is consistently outstanding, with just the right amount of time between the foie gras-and-shiitake shumai appetizer and Ming's signature entree, Alaskan butterfish. You're also free to linger after dessert without a server nudging you out the door.

* $22-$38; 583 Washington Street, Wellesley, 781-283-5790, ming.com/blueginger

Hamersley's Bistro

Service was snooty for years at Hamersley's in what was an uncanny imitation of a faculty club meant to scare customers into behaving themselves. But on recent visits, ties and starched white shirts aside, the servers looked like they were having fun. Today, the service remains highly efficient and anticipatory but also has a smidgen of the humor you get at simple bistros in France. Good jokes and great French food? This has become the perfect antidote to a stressful day.

* $15-$25; 553 Tremont Street, Boston, 617-423- 2700, hamersleysbistro.com

Caffe Italia

With some of the best homemade pasta around - try the buttery lobster ravioli, with creamy ricotta cannoli for dessert - and an espresso bar with a truly European feel, Caffe Italia has earned the right to be haughty. But you're in East Boston, where pretension is decidedly declasse. Though always professional, the wait staff makes everyone who walks through the door feel like a regular pulling up a seat at the neighborhood diner. And if you're in the mood for conversation, your server will likely be game.

* $12.95-$15.95; 150 Meridian Street, East Boston, 617-569-1800

Coriander Bistro

Anyone can learn to serve from the left and clear from the right. A professional waitstaff knows much more: how to provide attentive service so that the customer leaves feeling, well, if not loved, then at least appreciated. One example here: the complimentary amuse-bouche, which changes nightly. Kevin and Jill Crawley work well together to create an upscale French bistro feel, from his kitchen to her dining room. This truly feels like a family-run place, overseen by a creative and caring family.

* $26-$29; 5 Post Office Square, Sharon, 781- 784-5450, corianderbistro.com

Meritage

Chef Daniel Bruce works miracles in the kitchen of his elegant restaurant in the Boston Harbor Hotel. He's also a stickler for what goes on in the dining room. Because Meritage, which features seasonal American cuisine, is a wine-focused restaurant (it boasts more than 12,000 bottles), Bruce holds weekly wine tastings with the waiters, the better to understand the flavors. This room with a spectacular view of the harbor is the place for a special dinner, and the impeccable service sets the tone, from the minute a staff member shows you to your table and sets a complimentary savory before you, to the moment a server brings you a complimentary after-dinner sweet.

* $16 (small plates) to $30 (large); 70 Rowes Wharf, Boston, 617-439-3995, meritagetherestaurant.com

224 Boston Street

Not only is the service at this Dorchester favorite attentive, it's also thoughtful. Dine outside in the lush gardens on a chilly evening, and blankets are already draped over chair backs - a delightful gesture so unfamiliar on the many outdoor patios in the city. Our waitress's recommendations from the menu, which is both classic and eclectic American (meatloaf and mashed share the page with a grilled peach topped with shaved Manchego cheese), were spot on. We opted to remain outside under the awning despite a thunderstorm, and our waitress checked back regularly to be sure we stayed dry and comfortable, adjusting seating as necessary, and bringing us more of the bartender's excellent sangria.

* $11-$23; 224 Boston Street, Dorchester, 617- 265-1217, 224bostonstreet.com

Rialto

Stuffy or rushed service simply would not complement chef Jody Adams's exquisite new menu, focused on her interpretations of regional Italian cuisine. Nor would it match Rialto's soothing, airy new Maryann Thompson-designed interior. Good thing, then, that the service is a perfect combination of relaxed, low-key, and attentive-when-you-wantit. Even on a jampacked Saturday night, you'll enjoy lingering over every morsel and sipping your wine slowly while indulging in good conversation - just as you would when dining in one of your favorite regions in Italy.

* $28-$43; Charles Hotel, One Bennett Street, Cambridge, 617-661-5050, rialto-restaurant.com

The Blarney Stone

We love the Blarney for many reasons: its food and drink, its service, its outdoor patio and barbecue on a summer's evening, its crazy trivia games, its diverse crowd, and the TVs that are always turned to a game. It's a real neighborhood place, and it reflects the diversity of its Fields Corner locale: Here, you'll see whites, blacks, Hispanics, gay and straight couples, families, girlfriend groups, and guys enjoying a pint. A man in overalls at the bar downs a Guinness while nearby, a woman sips a cactus pear margarita. The happy vibe is embodied in the wait staff and bartenders, who are welcoming, patient, and efficient. The Blarney Stone has the feel of a large, extended family relaxing in the living room.

* $8-$19; 1505 Dorchester Avenue, Dorchester, 617-436-8223, blarneystoneboston.com