A Raw Deal

Sometimes, it's best to leave well enough alone, and in my book, ripe local tomatoes - the kind we get for just a few weeks in August and September in New England - are well enough. I eat them like a madman, but I almost never cook them. Raw tomatoes cut into rough chunks to mix with cheese, herbs, and olive oil as a dressing for pasta is a standby August dinner that keeps the tomatoes tasting pure and fresh and the stove time down to the minimum. To keep the dish from becoming watery, seed the tomatoes. Remove the core, cut the fruit in half along its equator, grasp one half in the palm of your hand, and give it a gentle squeeze and shake. The seeds and jelly will slide right out. You can chop the tomatoes an hour or two ahead of time, but don't salt them until you have begun preparing the pasta, or the salt will draw the liquid out, and you'll be back to waterville. Use extra virgin olive oil and high-quality cheese for these recipes. Rubbery block mozzarella just doesn't compare with tender, milky fresh mozz. Lastly, choose short and stubby or tubular pasta shapes such as campanelle (funnel-shaped), gemelli (braided twists), fiori (wagon wheels), or corkscrew rotini or fusilli to catch the bits in the sauce.

PASTA WITH FRESH TOMATOES, MOZZARELLA, GARLIC, AND BASIL
SERVES 4

This classic formula is easy to enhance. Try adding a mashed anchovy or two or some julienned prosciutto or other artisanal ham (you may want to reduce the amount of salt in the recipe), or substitute smoked mozzarella for the plain stuff.

2 1/2 pounds ripe local tomatoes, cored, seeded, and roughly chopped (about 5 cups)
2 medium garlic cloves, pressed or finely chopped (about 2 teaspoons)
1 1/4 teaspoons salt, or to taste, plus 1 tablespoon Ground pepper, to taste
1/3 cup olive oil
8 ounces fresh mozzarella, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
1 pound short and stubby or tubular-shaped pasta
6 tablespoons chopped fresh basil

In a large bowl, mix tomatoes, garlic, 1 1/4 teaspoons salt, pepper, oil, and mozzarella; set aside.

Meanwhile, in a large pot over high heat, bring 4 quarts of water to a boil. When the water boils, add 1 tablespoon of salt and the pasta, and cook according to package directions until al dente. In a colander, drain the pasta and immediately transfer it to the bowl with the tomato mixture. Toss until the heat of the pasta softens the mozzarella, and the pasta and tomatoes are evenly distributed. Add 5 tablespoons of basil and more salt and pepper if desired, and toss to combine. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon of basil and serve warm or at room temperature.

PASTA WITH FRESH TOMATOES, GOAT CHEESE, LEMON, AND MINT
SERVES 4

2 1/2 pounds ripe local tomatoes, cored, seeded, and roughly chopped (about 5 cups)
1 large shallot, very finely chopped
1 tablespoon juice and
1/2 teaspoon grated zest from 1 lemon
11/4 teaspoons salt, or to taste, plus 1 tablespoon Ground pepper, to taste
1/3 cup olive oil
4 ounces mild fresh goat cheese, crumbled into small pieces
1 pound short and stubby or tubular-shaped pasta
6 tablespoons chopped fresh mint

In a large bowl, mix the tomatoes, shallot, lemon juice and zest, 11/4 teaspoons of salt, pepper, oil, and goat cheese; set aside.

Meanwhile, in a large pot over high heat, bring 4 quarts of water to a boil. When the water boils, add 1 tablespoon salt and the pasta, and cook according to package directions until al dente. In a colander, drain the pasta and immediately transfer it to the bowl with the tomato mixture. Toss until the heat of the pasta softens the goat cheese, and the pasta and tomatoes are evenly distributed. Add 5 tablespoons mint and more salt and pepper if desired, and toss to combine. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon of mint and serve warm or at room temperature.

PASTA WITH HEIRLOOM TOMATOES, BRIE, AND CHIVES
SERVES 4

2 1/2 pounds ripe local heirloom tomatoes, cored, seeded, and roughly chopped (about 5 cups)
1 small clove garlic, pressed or finely chopped
1 1/4 teaspoons salt, or to taste, plus 1 tablespoon Ground pepper, to taste
1/3 cup olive oil
8 ounces brie, rind trimmed and cheese cut into small pieces
2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese
1 pound short and stubby or tubular-shaped pasta
6 tablespoons chopped fresh chives

In a large bowl, mix tomatoes, garlic, 1 1/4 teaspoons salt, pepper, oil, brie, and Parmesan; set aside.

Meanwhile, in large pot over high heat, bring 4 quarts of water to a boil. When the water boils, add 1 tablespoon salt and pasta, and cook according to package directions until al dente. In a colander, drain the pasta and immediately transfer it to the bowl with the tomato mixture. Toss until the heat of the pasta softens the brie, and the pasta and tomatoes are evenly distributed. Add 5 tablespoons of chives and more salt and pepper if desired, and toss. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon of chives and serve warm or at room temperature.