Oktoberfest - on a Small Scale

Though it's easy to assume otherwise, Oktoberfest - undoubtedly the beer bash of the year anywhere in the world - is celebrated neither throughout Germany nor throughout October. Munich, in the far southern region of Bavaria, is where the action is, and September - on the 22d this year - is when it starts. Of course, Oktoberfest, which lasts until October 7, includes traditional events, ceremonies, and parades, but the heart of the festival is the beer and the food, both consumed by revelers in huge tents and beer gardens.

Foodwise, the best of Bavaria may be its wurst - sausage, that is. And mild, cream-colored weisswurst - by tradition, eaten before noon on the day it is made to ensure optimal freshness - is especially esteemed in Munich.

Since most of us are well acquainted with sausage, we turn to other classic Bavarian and German specialties for our Oktoberfest dinner. The crisp, golden fried cutlets called Wiener schnitzel are served throughout Germany, and potato salad is considered one of its proper accompaniments. Bavarian cooks eschew mayonnaise in their potato salad, favoring instead a meaty flavor that often comes from using broth in the dressing. What to drink? That's a no-brainer - a stein or two of Oktoberfest beer.

WIENER SCHNITZEL
SERVES 4

In days gone by, these breaded, fried cutlets were made with veal only, but pork is now a popular alternative. Panko is a kind of extracrisp Asian-style bread crumb.

1 pork tenderloin, about
1 1/4 pounds, trimmed of silverskin
1/2 cup flour
2 eggs, beaten
2 cups bread crumbs, preferably panko
Salt, to taste
Ground black pepper, to taste
1 cup vegetable, corn, or canola oil
1 lemon, sliced or cut into wedges, for garnish

Adjust the oven rack to the middle position and heat the oven to 250 degrees. Cut the pork tenderloin crosswise into 4 pieces of equal size. Set 1 piece on a sheet of plastic wrap, cover with a second sheet of wrap, and use a meat pounder or the flat bottom of a small, heavy skillet to pound the meat into a cutlet 6 to 7 inches long, 4 to 5 inches wide, and 1/2 inch thick. Set the cutlet aside and repeat the process with the remaining pork.

Have on hand 3 shallow dishes such as pie plates or shallow soup bowls. Place the flour in one, the beaten eggs in a second, and the bread crumbs in the third. Season both sides of each cutlet liberally with salt and pepper and, working one cutlet at a time, dredge both sides in the flour, shake off excess, then dip both sides into the eggs (hold the cutlet above the dish for a moment to allow excess egg to drip off ), then dredge both sides in bread crumbs, pressing them onto the surface to form an even coat.

Meanwhile, in a large, heavy skillet, heat the oil over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot (about 4 minutes), carefully lay 2 cutlets in the skillet and fry, pressing down on them occasionally with a wide, heatproof spatula to help promote even browning. When the first side is deep golden brown and crisp, about 2 1/2 minutes, use tongs to gently turn the cutlets over. Reduce the heat to medium, and continue frying in the same manner until the other side is deep golden brown, about 21/2 minutes longer. Using the tongs, gently remove the cutlets to a plate lined with paper towels and place in the warm oven.

Allow the oil in the skillet to recover its heat for a moment and fry the other 2 cutlets in the same manner, adjusting the burner as necessary if the oil overheats or begins to scorch. Transfer the third and fourth cutlets to a plate lined with paper towels and let drain for a moment.

Serve all the cutlets at once with a garnish of lemon slices or wedges.

BAYERISCHER KARTOFFELSALAT
(BAVARIAN POTATO SALAD)
SERVES 4

2 pounds red bliss or Yukon Gold potatoes, peeled and cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices
1 tablespoon salt, plus extra for seasoning the dressing
3 tablespoons red wine vinegar
1/2 cup homemade or packaged low-sodium beef broth
1 tablespoon Dusseldorf-style or Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon sugar
Ground black pepper, to taste
1/4 cup olive oil
1/2 small onion, very finely chopped
1/2 medium cucumber, peeled, seeded, and finely chopped
1/4 cup chopped fresh parsley

In a large pot over high heat, bring 4 quarts of water to a boil. Add the potatoes and 1 tablespoon of salt. Return the water to a boil, reduce the heat to medium, and simmer until the potatoes are tender but still firm, about 6 minutes. In a colander, drain the potatoes, then transfer them to a large, wide mixing bowl. Immediately sprinkle 1 1/2 tablespoons of vinegar over the hot potatoes, and toss gently.

Meanwhile, in a small pot over high heat, bring the beef broth to a boil; continue boiling until the broth is reduced by half, about 3 minutes. In a medium bowl, mix the hot broth, remaining 1 1/2 tablespoons vinegar, mustard, sugar, and pepper to blend. Vigorously whisk in the oil, then season the dressing with salt and pepper to taste.

Pour the dressing over the potatoes, add the onion, and toss gently. Let marinate until the potatoes have absorbed much of the dressing, about 30 minutes. Add the cucumber and 3 tablespoons of parsley and toss gently. Sprinkle with the remaining 1 tablespoon of parsley, and serve at room temperature.