Rounding up unusual suspects, for a taste of northern Africa

Nearly a decade ago, traveling alone in Morocco, I was trying hard to ignore a twenty- something man who followed me down a narrow Tangier street. Men badger female tourists relentlessly, and I had mastered the art of feigning stone-faced deafness. But eventually Hassan threw out an invitation I couldn't resist: Come home with me, he said, and meet my sister and my mother. The women swept me into their tiny apartment, seated me on cushions, and insisted that I stay for dinner. Although they weren't expecting company, they piled plate after plate of food before me, and ended the meal with a pot of fresh mint tea. I'm still moved by their generosity toward a stranger far from home, and I've had a soft spot for Moroccan food ever since.

Tangierino

83 Main St., Charlestown
617-242-6009

At Tangierino, awash in deep shades of red and gold, the air is festive, the food spectacular, and the wait staff so warm that they must have had training in true Moroccan hospitality. The harira ($6), a Moroccan soup with tomatoes, chickpeas, and lentils, has a cilantro zing. The chicken b'stila ($10), a phyllo tart with ground chicken and almonds, was a sweet and savory appetizer, dusted with powdered sugar. And the sultan's kadra ($27) was dazzling: a stack of tender lamb -- cooked with za'atar, a mixture of spices -- figs and eggplant stuffed with soft cheese in a dark rosemary sauce.

Baraka Café

80 ½ Pearl St., Cambridge
617-868-3951

This cheery restaurant is not Moroccan, but some of the North African dishes are similar. The chefs are of Algerian and Tunisian heritage, and they make a mean vegetable couscous ($9) that includes fava beans. We loved the m'katef ($16), grilled lamb chops beside couscous that was topped off by ehbah essoufra, a sweet almond tartlet. Our only regret was not planning ahead enough to try the classical bastilla torte, cooked with squab or chicken, which requires 36 hours' advance notice.

café D

711 Centre St., Jamaica Plain
617-522-9500

The Moroccan spiced lamb ($22.50) on this self-proclaimed global kitchen's menu is a holdover from the restaurant's previous incarnation, Arbor. The restaurant, reopend in February as the less formal, less expensive café D, serves its acclaimed lamb with Israeli couscous.

Casablanca

40 Brattle St., Cambridge
617-876-0999

Despite its name, Casablanca's menu is filled with dishes such as grilled bluefish and duck two ways. But the restaurant, opened in 1955 and named after the movie, serves food inspired by North African cuisine.

Sari's wood-grilled lamb ($12) is not as deeply spiced as the Moroccan lamb dishes but is amazingly tender, served with charred tomatoes and a grilled piece of pita bread.

KATHLEEN BURGE