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DINING OUT

Thai eatery visit proves fruitful

Mango II

2171 Main St. (Route 38), Tewksbury

Lunch: Monday to Saturday, 11:30 a.m. to 4 p.m.

Dinner: Monday to Thursday 4 to 10 p.m.; Friday and Saturday, 4 to 10:30 p.m.; Sunday 4 to 9:30 p.m.

Major credit cards accepted.

978-988-9779

MangoII.com

Tucked away in the nondescript Cranberry Place strip mall on Tewksbury's main artery, Mango II is a hidden gem where customers are treated like family and substitutions are cheerfully welcomed.

When my dining companion arrived at the restaurant -- as usual, I was running late -- she was greeted by a doting waitstaff. They ushered her in from the cold, asked where she was from, and whether she needed a warm beverage -- Thai hospitality at its best. She immediately felt at home.

I arrived a few minutes later and was pleasantly surprised by the cozy vibe. Mango II's d ecor is dominated by subtle hues reminiscent of those found in the mango and warm wood .

The ambiance is enhanced by the background music. On that cold and rainy Sunday evening, a chorus of love songs was playing -- think Alicia Keys and Barry White.

Mango II promises diners "an adventure in dining," and that is exactly what my friend and I experienced. The chef served up dishes with a balance of flavors, textures, and color. Our meals were as pleasing to the eye as to the palate.

The appetizer of fried shumai ($5.95) appeared to be slightly overdone -- the shrimp and vegetable dumpling was a bit crispier than it should have been.

We both enjoyed the restaurant's take on chicken satay, which was tender and delicious, particularly when dipped in peanut sauce ($6.25).

However, our favorite finger food was the curry puffs ($6.75), a tasty blend of chicken, potato, onion, and curry powder wrapped in a light batter. This wonderful creation reminded us of a vegetable somosa, the traditional Indian dish, both in taste and texture.

For an entree, I ordered a traditional Thai dish, shrimp in yellow curry sauce ($11.95).

My friend decided to try something new and create her own gourmet dish ($13.95). At Mango II, patrons are invited to select the meat and veggies of their choice from a large menu of stir-fry options, and pair them with a sauce.

If you wish, the restaurant will keep your request on file so that you can enjoy the same creation again. This service made us feel that Mango II expects everyone to become a regular.

The options on the "create your own gourmet" menu are vast. For your "protein choice," you can select beef, pork, tofu, chicken, haddock, mussels, calamari, salmon, scallops, shrimp, swordfish, duck, or a combination of those items. Then you have your choice of 37 veggies, from traditional Asian fare, like bean sprouts and water chestnuts, to more eclectic selections, including papaya, black fungus and mangoes (of course). You also choose one of 21 sauces, from a mild brown oyster sauce to a spicy red curry.

When my companion ran into trouble choosing the right sauce for her unique creation, the waiter offered his expertise. Although she initially was drawn to the peanut sauce, she took the waiter's recommendation and tried the ginger sauce. It was sweet and tangy, unlike any Thai sauce either of us had ever had before. The waiter had steered her in the right direction.

After tasting her dish, I found myself wishing I had been a bit more adventurous -- until I tried a bite of my shrimp. The dish boasted hefty chunks of pineapple, onion, tomatoes, peppers, and carrots, as well as a hearty mix of summer squash and yellow squash. It was by far the best yellow curry I have had in the suburbs.

I usually favor spicier entrees, but being in the early stages of my fourth pregnancy, I opted for a mild dish. The sauce was a blend of sweet and spicy, but gentle enough for me to enjoy.

As our waiter cleared our dinner plates, we asked why the restaurant was named after the mango. It seemed odd, given that other restaurants in the area are similarly named (i.e., the Mango Grill in Ayer and the Mango Grille in Andover, all of them unrelated).

Our waiter told us many restaurants are named for the popular fruit because the mango is a symbol of prosperity in Thailand . " If you name your restaurant after the mango, it's said it will continue to grow year after year," he said.

For dessert, I ordered the mango sorbet ($3.50), which was served with a cherry. The cool concoction was very sweet, the perfect ending for my meal. My friend opted for a Thai favorite, custard with sticky rice ($3.95). She thought the custard was a bit spongy, not great if you're drawn to softer custard deserts like cr eme brulee and flan -- but the sticky rice was terrific, warm and sweet.

We promised to meet at Mango II again soon. Next time, though, I'm bringing the kids. A family of five, like mine, could easily dine at this restaurant for less than $80, including tax and tip.

Mango II has a children's menu that includes several seafood selections and a tried-and-true standard, chicken fingers. Children's meals range from $3.95 to $8.95 .

And I think my brood -- ages 7, 5, and 2 -- will be amused by the menu, which is peppered with cartoon caricatures of Asian children singing, dancing, and playing musical instruments.

And, as any parent knows, getting the little ones to sit still is more than half the battle.

BRENDA J. BUOTE

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