Basic Italian fare, but worth a try

Guido's
218 Dedham St. (Route 1A), Norfolk
Telephone: 508-384-5122
Hours: Monday through Saturday, 11 a.m. to 9 p.m.; Sunday 4-9 p.m.
Partially handicapped accessible
Major credit cards accepted

It seems that Guido's didn't waste any time moving into the old Tyler's space along Norfolk's restaurant row near the crossing of routes 1A and 115. The landmark closed this winter and its replacement was in place by spring.

Guido's owners updated much of the interior decor, creating a tasteful, if a bit stark, ambience featuring high-backed leatherette booths, pictures of the old country, and a double set of ceiling lights. The separate bar area, open until midnight, is a bit cozier, and you can eat in there as well.

A ramp into the restaurant allows for handicapped access, but the single-stall ladies room was not appropriately equipped.

With so many pasta sauces on the market, you expect something special when you splurge to go out.

Guido's red sauce is rather bland, and the chances of it accompanying an item at this Italian restaurant, either in an entree or a side dish, are high. It came with the fried zucchini sticks appetizer ($7), and like the sauce, the batter was nondescript, although the vegetable pieces were crisp, and there were a lot of them.

The bruschetta ($4) featured slabs of roasted red peppers and mozzarella layered on pieces of thinly sliced Italian bread, with none of the chopped tomatoes and basil that usually enliven the recipe.

We fared better with the main dishes. The meat in the chicken marsala ($17) was particularly succulent, the wine sauce distinct but not overpowering, and the mushrooms nicely sauteed. Most dinners are served with soup or salad -- with no extra charge for a Caesar -- pasta or potato, and vegetable.

The lasagna with sausages ($13.50) was layered with cheeses, but the sausages, along with the sauce, could have been spiced up.

The seafood casserole ($17) offered tender scallops, shrimp, and haddock but they were drowned under the stuffing, which tasted more of Thanksgiving turkey than crabmeat. There was no lemon with the dish, and it would have been a desirable addition.

The chicken, broccoli, and pasta alfredo ($16) was tasty and rich. The chicken was cooked perfectly, and the broccoli firm even with its covering of creamy cheese sauce.

The service was friendly if a bit inattentive, but swift attempts were made to rectify issues: A new basket of rolls replaced the first batch of stale ones, and plates were added and removed when requested.

Guido's, which also has a restaurant in Walpole, seems to be popular. Sunday night was slow but steady, and a visit the next night found the place pretty full.

There were no specials, but the official menu was large and offered a nice variety, from specialty dinners to "famous 4-decker" and grilled sandwiches and pizzas. The wine menu was heavy on the California chardonnays but otherwise offered a nice variety. And the restaurant offers quite a few menu options for catering.

The portions at Guido's are not skimpy, but then neither are the prices. It's worth a try, though, especially if you're not too particular about your red sauce.

P. MORIN FITZGERALD