So many choices
Palmers Restaurant & Tavern
18 Elm St., Andover
978-470-1606
palmers-restaurant.com
Hours: Monday through Wednesday 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Thursday until 11:30 p.m.; Friday until midnight; Saturday noon to midnight
Reservations accepted
First floor accessible to the handicapped
Major credit cards accepted
Palmers is really several restaurants in one. Behind the barn-red clapboards and white trim of this historic house just off Elm Square, you'll find a tavern with a dozen beers on tap and upscale pub food; a lunch restaurant featuring unusual salads such as blueberry chicken with goat cheese; a formal dining room; and three function rooms. The largest of these holds 100 guests, and the restaurant has an event coordinator on staff.
Palmers began in 1988 as a small upscale eatery in Swampscott. Buoyed by its success and Zagat rating, chef-owner John P. Ingalls III moved to larger quarters in Andover in December 1995.
We settled in the formal dining room on the second floor. We were impressed by the diverse menu, with a large selection of creative salads, intriguing entrees, and an entire page devoted to specialty steaks ($24 to $33). The Black Angus beef comes from Creekstone Farms in Kentucky and is offered with a choice of sauces: mushroom, port wine, béarnaise, or au poivre.
An appetizer of chicken satay ($9) paired Sichuan chicken strips with dense, chewy noodles in a peanut sauce that had a kick but was not overpowering. Shrimp and goat cheese salad ($11) featured large, firm grilled shrimp and baby greens topped with a round of fresh goat cheese studded with finely ground pine nuts. Tossed with a lemony dressing, it was plenty for two or three to share.
Double-thick lamb chops ($25) were tender and moist, and needed nothing but their own juices and a few fresh herbs in a demi-glace to be completely satisfying.
Citrus-crusted sole ($17.50) was coated lightly with bread crumbs, broiled, and served with a tangerine beurre blanc, which added flavor without overwhelming the delicate flavor of the fish.
Veal and lobster with hollandaise ($20) had a smooth, tangy sauce, though the veal was not as tender as we might have liked.
Our entrees came with a garnish of broccoli rabe. Potatoes, rice, pasta, and vegetables are offered as side dishes for $5 each. We ordered chive mashed potato, an earthy mix of potatoes, skins, and chives that was more than enough for three.
With great difficulty, we selected one dessert from several mouth-watering options, and it was a winner. Profiteroles ($7) were a pair of cream puffs filled with vanilla ice cream, one topped with warm caramel sauce and the other with hot fudge. The pastries were light and eggy, the ice cream smooth, and the sauces rich, tasting of caramel and fudge instead of sugar. Real whipped cream was a bonus. All desserts are made on site.
Lunch and dinner are also served in the tavern, which features live music on Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evenings. In warm weather, there's al fresco dining on the porch.
ELLEN ALBANESE 
