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DINING OUT

Everything is oversized but the prices

Stoneforge Foxboro
2 Washington St. (Route 1 north)
Foxborough
508-668-9800
stoneforge.net
Hours: Monday-Saturday 11:30 a.m. to 1 a.m., Sunday noon to 1 a.m.
Reservations accepted Sunday-Thursday for parties of eight or more
Accessible to the handicapped
Major credit cards accepted
Private dining rooms for up to 50 guests
Live entertainment on Thursday through Saturday nights

Stoneforge Foxboro is nothing if not big. Walking into the cavernous restaurant, we were struck by the expansive dining rooms, cathedral ceilings, oversized double-sided fieldstone fireplace, and massive oval bar surrounded by high-top tables. Three of us sat in a high-backed, upholstered booth that could have accommodated eight. We could see into the large, bustling open kitchen with a brick oven in the back.

Just a mile from Gillette Stadium, Stoneforge trades on the sports connection. The walls are decorated with black-and-white photographs of classic Boston sports moments. Big-screen TVs are everywhere. A billiard parlor contains 10 crimson felt-covered tables.

Even the menu is big. A densely printed 11x17 sheet with food listed on one side and beverages on the other is accompanied by a smaller page of daily specials. Stoneforge specialties are marked by a miniature iron worker icon. There are 36 beers on tap and a sizable wine list. Wines are reasonably priced, with glasses beginning at $5 and most bottles, except for reserve wines, under $35.

The variety is impressive: a raw bar, creative salads, steaks with classic sauces, wood-grilled dishes, grilled pizza, and Stoneforge espetars, sword-like skewers with seasoned meat or seafood and fresh-cut vegetables cooked over an open flame.

We shared an appetizer of Mongolian ribs ($9, also available as an entrée for $18). They were tender and surprisingly meaty; a soy orange glaze added a tangy kick. Tuscan garlic shrimp ($10) came in a savory broth of lemon, garlic, capers, roasted tomatoes, and butter that was perfect for sopping up with thick, crusty bread.

The key-lime chicken piccata ($18) combined chicken tenders, capers, garlic, avocado, mango, artichokes, and roasted red peppers over big-grained, firm couscous. We liked the sweet-and-sour effect; it was a nice summer dish.

The cedar salmon from the wood grill ($17), however, was overcooked, and the accompanying barbecue vinaigrette couldn't quite overcome its dryness. The vegetable of the day, zucchini and summer squash grilled and moistened with Italian dressing, was fresh and firm, and a heaping portion of sweet-potato fries (for an additional $1) was a tasty twist on the usual spud choices.

Brick-oven lobster pizza ($15) was impossibly thin and came topped with lightly dressed, gingered greens. It was an attractive presentation and the greens made for a nice side dish. Caramelized onions and chunks of lobster created a surprisingly sweet and delicate pizza.

The dessert tray was impressive, but decidedly not delicate. It featured a wedge of chocolate layer cake that could easily serve four, and similarly supersized carrot cake, lava cake, cannoli, crème brulee, turtle cheesecake, and chocolate trilogy (three flavors of mousse). Our waitress said people usually share the chocolate and carrot cakes ($9; the other items are $6). We shared the trilogy -- milk chocolate, dark chocolate, and vanilla mousse with raspberry sauce and shaved chocolate on top. It was smooth and light.

There's outside dining in season, and Tuesday night is all-you-can-eat pasta night from 5 to 8 p.m. ($16 with salad and a glass of wine; children's meals with ice cream and beverage are $8). The Stoneforge concept operates in three other locations: Stoneforge Tavern in Raynham, Stoneforge Grill in Easton, and Stoneforge Steakhouse & Raw Bar at Bert's Cove in Plymouth. Menus are similar, offering what the restaurant calls "global rustic cuisine."

ELLEN ALBANESE

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