Lost in the vineyards? Local experts know the way
Tired of the same old chardonnay or cabernet sauvignon? It's always exciting to think about trying something new, but what are you to do when all 50 states and seemingly half the world's countries are making wine and it's all available in your local wine store?
Start by grabbing the first employee you see and try these two questions that worked for me at three local wine stores: What's the best bargain? What bottle would make most of your customers happy?
Belinda Morgan's favorites are stacked at the entrance to Busa Wines (55 Bedford St., Lexington, 781-862-1400), making them easy to find. Wine director at Busa for more than 16 years, Morgan first wanted to know how much I wanted to spend and whether I wanted red, white, or rosé.
"What wine would most of your consumers love?" I ventured, not wanting to limit her selection. As she ran her hand lovingly over the bottles, pausing for just a minute, Morgan looked like a parent who had been asked to identify her favorite child.
Curious Beagle? "You can't help but love it, and you don't have to love dogs to like it," said Morgan, her eyes sparkling. This 2005 California cabernet sauvignon ($12 on sale until Sept. 3; regularly $14) with a beagle on the label is a playful approach to an earnest wine.
"It's high-quality juice. It kicks the pants off other cabernets," she said. "Velvety, scrumptious . . . nice finish."
Morgan's right about the currant flavor, with a bit of spice that lingers after a mouthful. I drank it with grilled steak and hamburger, and it was delectable. She said this all-around wine also suits barbecue and grilled chicken.
Though the earthy Curious Beagle could satisfy most of Morgan's buyers and serve as a conversation starter, her best bargain is an Italian rosé, Bastianich, Rosato 2006 ($13 on sale until Sept. 3; regularly $16).
Both the cassis (black currants) color and lovely, flowery aroma immediately make this an attractive wine to drink. While most of us probably couldn't distinguish the promise of watermelon, pomegranate, and raspberry flavors, I'd put this at the top of my summer list to quaff alone or with antipasto, light-colored meats, and pizza.
In 2000, when Eric Broege and Carolyn Kemp bought Vintages: Adventures in Wine (53 Commonwealth Ave., Concord, vintagesonline.com, 978-369-2545), they decided to take a big risk focusing on high-quality, sometimes unfamiliar wines in their boutique.
They have concentrated on Italian, especially from the Piedmont area, and French wines, learning about them during regular excursions. Broege, also an artist, quickly developed an ability to sniff out unusual wines that best represent the places where the grapes grow.
"We taste everything," said Broege. "That's how we select it."
He knows first-hand about the unique Barbaresco, Cantina Del Pino, 2003 ($30) that is "very expressive of its vineyard site," and a customer pleaser. The full, fruity aroma introduces this rich burgundy-colored, distinctive wine with a solid finish. I loved it with pesto pasta, and he encourages drinking it with grilled meats, wild mushrooms, or even seared scallops.
For a bargain, Broege selected the San Fereolo, Valdiba, 2004 ($11), a small-production, artisanal wine that is one of the best examples of the dolcetto grape. He said it has a rich, black cherry flavor, with good acidity, and slightly bitter almond finish.
Sipping it alone and with grilled steak and hamburger, I expected to love this wine, but instead found it was a suitable table wine with pasta. I liked his second choice better -- the Guidobono, Langhe, 2005 ($10) made with the same nebbiolo grape as the Barbaresco above but with a less-developed taste.
Noah Leed, a fan of Tuscan wines, is the go-to man at the larger retailer Colonial Spirits (87 Great Road, Acton, colonialspirits.com, 978-263-7775). Besides the stock of Italian, French, and California wines, there are bargains from the rest of the world. He began learning from his wine-collecting father and by working at a now-defunct New York winery.
An Italian white wine, Pieropan Soave Classico 2005 ($16) will make most of his consumers happy. "It's full-bodied, fairly dry, and pretty long on the palate," said Leed. "Unoaked . . . it does have a lot of nuance to it."
I found the grassy nose emerges after Pieropan warms up and begins to show off the ripe pear highlights and a pleasant lingering finish. Drink it on its own or with a lightly seasoned dish, such as chicken or lemon-basted fish.
He gives the nod to the Spanish Segura Viudas Brut Reserva ($8) for the bargain that is "far superior" to any domestic or French sparkling wines less than $10. "It's got an earthy . . . almost minerally quality," said Leed.
This is a terrific value for a more substantial sparkling wine that is aromatic, effervescent, full-flavored, and works with any vinegary dish, hors d'oeuvres, or cheese.
Looking back on this odyssey, the wine I'd go back to time after time is the Curious Beagle. That's the fun of challenging passionate wine lovers with two simple questions and finding the unexpected. When these wines run out, I'll go back for more surprises.
