A fine menu, and fine dessert

The Tavern at River's Edge
163 Water Street, Exeter, N.H.
Telephone: 603- 772-7393
Hours: Serving appetizers Monday-Saturday 3-10 p.m.; entrees Monday-Friday 5:30-9 p.m., Saturday 5-9 p.m.
Website: tavernatriversedge.com
Major charge cards
No wheelchair ramp

We loved the Tavern at River's Edge for a couple of reasons. First, we always like an eatery where you can make an entire dinner out of appetizers and a martini on the rocks.

The Tavern has enough alluring starters to accomplish this, they even call them "lighter fare" on the menu. Full dinner service begins at 5:30 p.m. (5 p.m. on Saturday), but the lighter fare is offered at 3.

We were there for dinner, but that didn't stop us from trying a few items off the appetizer menu. We were tempted by the seared tuna ($11), yellowfin with water chestnuts and pickled ginger in a ginger soy vinaigrette. And the Prince Edward Island mussels ($10) sautéed with leeks, chorizo sausage, tomatoes, white wine, and garlic looked and smelled delicious as a server brought it to a neighboring table. But we settled on the beef carpaccio ($10) and the mushroom ragout ($9).

The carpaccio was excellent. The filet mignon was so tender and sliced so thinly that it had the texture and richness of smoked salmon. The capers, onion, asiago cheese, and extra virgin olive oil drizzled on top were just right, especially when all were scooped up with the homemade crostini.

The ragout was also excellent. Fresh, woodsy mushrooms were sautéed with scallions and sun-dried tomatoes in a garlicky cream wine sauce, and also served with crostini.

This could be a meal in itself, especially given the generous portion.

You'd think the ragout would have prohibited us from ordering the wild mushroom ravioli ($21) for dinner, but instead it just whetted our appetite for more fungi.

We were presented with a bowl of a half-dozen porcini- and cheese-stuffed ravioli in a thin and creamy wine sauce, which was similar but thinner and richer than the ragout.

We also ordered the grilled Atlantic salmon ($18) with rice pilaf, creamed onions, black pepper, fresh tomato, and lemon zest over rice pilaf. This was a thick, juicy piece of fish with a wonderful smoky flavor from the grill set off by the uber-lemony sauce and the fresh tomato. Our mouth was on fire with all these amazing flavors.

And what better way to put out a fire than with ice cream? But not just any ice cream -- homemade cinnamon ice cream, which just happened to accompany a gooey, fudgey molten chocolate cake ($6.50).

This wasn't just dessert. It was a mouth party. If nothing else, we'd go back to the Tavern at River's Edge hoping beyond hope that this would be on the desserts du jour menu again.

We also loved the atmosphere -- kind of fin de siècle meets brick grotto with its dark mahogany furniture and understated walls. And it really is at the edge of the river, but you can't see it well from the restaurant. The fine menu more than makes up for it.

TOM LONG