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He captures 4th, and all else

Email|Print|Single Page| Text size + By Christopher Baxter
Globe Correspondent / July 4, 2008

Black shoes squared, John Manson stands straight and true, as though out of respect to the history he has recounted for 30 years. His uniform, forest green and gray, is pressed and relatively unadorned: a small nametag over one chest pocket, a gold badge over the other.

Eyes squinting, he clasps to his side a thin white cane, his escort for life. The park ranger, blind since birth, has never seen the Old State House, Quincy Market, or Faneuil Hall, where he worked for half his life before retiring yesterday. And yet the narrator of the state's most storied years needs no guide. He is the guide. And the tour group gathered earlier this week listened closely, ready to follow.

"You picked a great day to be here, the day that John Adams said that we would celebrate independence: July 2," said Manson, speaking at the Boston National Historical Park visitors' center downtown. "But what happened? How come we got onto this July 4 kick?"

For three decades, Manson chronicled Boston's treasured sites with a blend of authority and irony, wisdom, and wit, which captured imaginations as surely as those who once called for a revolution.

"Take any event that happened in Faneuil Hall, from the time it was built in 1742, and he would have researched it on his own and known everything about it," said Sheila Cooke-Kayser, who worked with Manson for 16 years. "And then by chatting with his audience, he would find connections and immediately be able to make it relevant to today's world."

Born in Eureka, Calif., in 1948, Manson never imagined one day navigating the winding streets of Boston. But more than 25 years later, on a journey to "find himself," Manson stepped off a Greyhound bus and took a small room on Beacon Hill.

He was taken by the confluence of city sounds: traffic zooming through underpasses, trains accelerating before diving underground, and water lapping against the pier.

He worked as a beer taster and in a Braille shop, among other places, before interviewing with the US National Park Service and reporting for duty March 27, 1978. He led tours along the Freedom Trail, often with another ranger to help him along, until 1990, when he became supervisor of Faneuil Hall.

Each work day, Manson awoke at 3 a.m. in the Revere home he shares with his wife, Carol. Several hours later, he caught an inbound Blue Line train, and soon the metal tip of his cane tapped along the bricks outside Faneuil Hall. Often the first to arrive at the old assembly hall, Manson poured a cup of instant coffee and grabbed a snack before peppering colleagues with trivia as they walked through the door.

"Short of a person changing their career, or having some internal spark, they need to ask themselves this fundamental question: Do they love what they're doing so much that they would do it for nothing?" he said.

Manson does not compare himself to any of the Founding Fathers he can quote from memory or any of the world leaders he has met through audiobooks. He tries not to waffle when asked a question, though he often cannot resist injecting a little history. He does not find comfort in simple answers, he said, when situations are more complex. And he embraces imperfection as an intractable part of life, whether in history or the present that is his life.

"Some things you just can't settle," Manson said. "And you just got to walk away."

But not too far. Manson will give his 18th oration in honor of July Fourth at Faneuil Hall today, his first in civilian clothes. His speeches - spontaneous, personal, and rich with history - give energy to an otherwise gray gathering of politicians, said Cooke-Kayser, a longtime friend.

"It's anybody's guess what I say, including mine," Manson said.

Modern-day leaders recognized Manson with proclamations and declarations presented at his retirement party two weeks ago. One friend likened him to Henry Knox, he said, an unsung hero whose cannon helped drive the British from Boston.

Manson will keep moving, writing, playing the piano, listening to the waves on Revere Beach. As time compresses, he said, he slowly slips into the grip of history. For a man who relived the past for three decades, being remembered himself is an odd thing.

But more than someone who filled his head with knowledge, Manson said he prefers to be known as the man who always knew the right thing to say at the right time, as when addressing tourists two days before Independence Day.

"It wasn't enough for Congress to vote on July 2," Manson told the tourists this week. "They had to have the first official signature on July 4. It's a great day to be here."

Christopher Baxter can be reached at cbaxter@globe.com.

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