Old train depot offers ticket to delightful meal

Fava
1027 Great Plain Ave., Needham
781-455-8668; favarestaurant.com
Hours: Tuesday through Saturday from 5 p.m.
Reservations recommended
Major credit cards accepted
Accessible to the handicapped

Fava is hard to find, but well worth the search. The cozy restaurant is tucked behind commercial buildings on Great Plain Avenue, next to the Needham Center train station.

Its building was in fact a train station at one time, and it's not hard to picture it as such, with one wall of rough granite blocks. The others are painted a rich eggplant, and mirrors make the small space feel more expansive. The entryway passes the open kitchen, where we glimpsed chef-owner Jeffrey Kaye at work, and the intoxicating aromas sent our taste buds into high gear before we even sat down.

The menu is not large but offers a good variety of meat, chicken, and fish. Here's a tip: If you can work within its relatively generous scope, the $35 prix fixe menu, offered Tuesday through Thursday, is a bargain.

We started with good crusty country bread and a light, almost whipped, hummus that we found a little bland.

A salad of seasonal greens ($8) paired balsamic-dressed mesclun with spiced nuts, pears, and blue cheese. It was a nice combination of textures and flavors, with the sharp blue cheese offsetting the sweet toasted nuts.

Rabbit ravioli ($12) were rich and earthy. Spinach and cheese combined with tender rabbit for intense flavor, and toasted hazelnuts added a pleasant crunch.

The flavors of crab and asparagus were distinct in springtime mushroom soup ($12), a morel mushroom broth with crab- and asparagus-stuffed wonton. Mushroom fans might prefer a more assertive mushroom flavor.

Entrees were all winners. Duck duet ($29) delivered tender pan-seared slices of duck breast and duck confit, basically pulled duck, in an artichoke-stuffed scallion crepe with blood-orange marmalade. The crepe was delicious, and the marmalade added a bright sweetness.

Artichoke- and almond-stuffed golden trout ($25) was a striking presentation. Truly golden in color, it featured a split trout with moist stuffing, flowers of salty pancetta, and sweet baby spinach, all set upon a bed of light, crispy shoestring potatoes.

Grilled rack of lamb ($30) was one of the tenderest pieces of lamb we've ever had. It was cooked perfectly, and the rosemary-marsala demi-glaze was rich and savory without overwhelming the lamb. Accompanying warm red bliss potato salad was studded with chives and roasted red pepper. An eggplant-zucchini gratin was tender but not overcooked.

We were impressed that the vegetables and starches were not universal but chosen specifically to complement each entree.

Desserts were similarly satisfying. Warm Grand Marnier flourless chocolate torte ($8) was intensely flavored, and the accompanying homemade vanilla ice cream was a perfect complement. "Pure and simple" creme brulee ($8) was creme brulee at its best, with a crackly burnt-sugar top over creamy egg custard, loaded with the speckled evidence of real vanilla beans. This classic dessert is often served too cold, but here it is served at room temperature, which heightens the flavors.

Our waitress was knowledgeable and welcoming. She seemed intent on making sure we had the best dining experience possible, discussing at length the meaning of medium vs. medium well with our lamb expert, recommending a wine, and checking on us discreetly during dinner. The only thing that can make a fine food experience better is fine service, and this, too, we found at Fava.

ELLEN ALBANESE