In Scituate, something for everyone

The property, located a few hundred feet south of the junction of routes 3A and 123, initially was a small roadside stand with a few counter seats and booths. Cape-bound travelers could buy a lobster roll for 50 cents, or snack on an ice cream cone for a dime. Those with heartier appetites could order a full steak dinner for $1.

The route to the Cape long ago switched from Route 3A to Route 3, but PJ’s has maintained its place as a popular destination among South Shore diners who are searching for tasty food along with some musical accompaniment. Today, it’s owned and managed by a third-generation O’Brien, Geoffrey.

This attractive eatery, divided into three cozy rooms that reflect its gradual expansion over the last few decades, has something for everyone, whether you’re looking for a juicy steak, fresh seafood, or delicately seasoned chicken.

PJ’s offers the usual lunch and dinner selections as well as daily specials, a separate pub menu, and a list of “lighter fare’’ for those interested in something fancier than a sandwich but without the heft of a 12-ounce cut of meat.

One recent Tuesday, we went early enough to score a table immediately, but we missed out on the piano player, jazz trio, and other musicians who regularly entertain dinner guests Wednesday through Saturday evenings.

Service was prompt, and we were soon sipping wine and munching on warm popovers while we selected appetizers and dinners.

The list of evening appetizers is long, with a strong focus on seafood. Prices range from $3.75 for the soup du jour to $13 for oysters on the half-shell.

One of us opened with deep-fried calamari ($8), which proved to be a little chewy. Our second appetizer was far better. We feasted on vegetable spring rolls, delicately seasoned and containing a hint of orange ($8). Sweet-and-sour sauce accompanied them, but these tasty packages didn’t need any help.

There were also several salads offered, ranging from basic to fancy and priced from $4 to $5.75.

We varied our dinners, choosing steak, pork, and chicken. One of the evening specials featured an English-cut prime rib in an onion reduction sauce ($13), served with Delmonico potatoes and green beans. Our steak-eating diner pronounced the meat tender, the sauce flavorful, and the potatoes deliciously cheesy. His only complaint was “there could have been more steak.’’

The accompanying green beans were nicely prepared and presented. The lack of heavy sauces or other seasonings let their fresh flavor shine through.

The 12-ounce pork rib chop, served with Vidalia onion Gorgonzola stuffing and roasted shallot port demi-glaze ($18.50), proved a favorite and was rapidly polished off. The chop came with Delmonico potatoes and green beans.

Our third diner chose chicken marsala ($18), which was artfully presented, with three thin chicken filets, topped by prosciutto and mushrooms and bathed in marsala, all served over angel-hair pasta. When she took a breather to comment, our diner said it was as delectable as it looked.

When dessert time arrived, we bravely proceeded, although definitely satisfied by our meals. I ordered the crème brulee ($6.50), which was so good I didn’t bother sampling our other choices.

My fellow diners gobbled up every bit of the warm fudge brownie and apple crisp, both served a la mode ($7 each), so we all left with our sweet tooths well satisfied and firm intentions to return.

CHRISTINE LEGERE