Q&A with a cranberry grower

(David L. Ryan/Globe file photo)

Five questions for Dawn Gates-Allen, a fourth-generation cranberry grower from Middleborough and communications manager for the Cape Cod Cranberry Growers’ Association. Interviewed by Roy Greene of the Globe staff.

Q. What is the short version of the history of cranberries in our region?

A. Cranberries grew wild on Cape Cod. The Native Americans incorporated cranberries into their diet, by making pemmican (concentrated, ready-to-eat food) out of the ground cranberries. They used this for preserving meats and for medicinal purposes. The native people had an ample supply, so they were able to feed off the wild vines.

In the early 1800s, Captain Henry Hall of Dennis noticed that sand blowing across cranberries actually helped rejuvenate new growth of the cranberry vines. Later, Hall was the first American to commercially cultivate them. Cranberries were brought on ships for export to Europe and placed in wooden barrels with water, and the sailors drank the cranberry water to prevent scurvy. This indicated that cranberries had special health benefits.

Q. Why did cranberry-growing catch on in southeastern Massachusetts, and how much does the industry pump into the state's economy each year?

A. Many cranberry bogs in southeastern Massachusetts actually date back to the Revolutionary War and the War of 1812. Iron ore was dug out of the earth; the ore was then smelted down into cannonballs. The New England Yankee farmers, with their ability to reuse the land for cranberries, was the perfect fit.

The cranberry bogs flourish in the rich organic soils. Sand was spread on top of these mined-out cavities, and the cranberry industry started to flourish. The cranberry industry is also thankful for the multicultural labor forces and families that helped to industrialize the state’s cranberry Industry.

The industry, which employs about 5,000 people, will infuse approximately $100 million into the state’s economy this year.

Q. Cranberries seem to find their way into a widening array of food and drinks these days (think cran-apple-berry-mocha-latte-antioxidant-cider-spritzer-tea!) What's the next frontier?

A. The next frontier seems to be coming full circle. Native Americans were using cranberries for medicinal purposes, and now modern science and technology is introducing the pulp of our cranberries in the pharmaceutical industry for vitamin supplements, toothpaste, and pet food supplements. Refer to the Cranberry Institute’s website for recent studies on the health benefits.

Q. Is it considered taboo for growers such as yourself to use canned cranberry sauce?

A. Growers gladly accept cranberry sauce from a can. It’s a time saver, especially in the off season, when fresh supplies have run out or our personal supplies of frozen fruit aren’t available.

Q. What's cranberry recipes will you be preparing Thursday?

A. I will be incorporating a Cranberry jalapeno relish, which is served cold. The recipe calls for 12 ounces of cranberries, 1 diced lime, ½ cup sugar, 2 jalapeno peppers, ¼ cup chopped cilantro. For dessert, we will be making cranberry baklava. The adults at the table will be sipping cranberry margaritas.

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