Firebomb destroys beloved Cuban eatery

The epicenter of the city's Cuban community, which one local official called the ''Cheers or Doyle's of Cuban food," burned early yesterday after someone lobbed a device similar to a Molotov cocktail into the restaurant, fire officials and city councilors said.

Jamaica Plain's El Oriental de Cuba on Centre Street -- known for its mashed plantains, pressed sandwiches, and specially prepared rice and beans -- was a charred shell last night, its brick front blackened by smoke, its windows blown out and boarded up, its interior destroyed by flames and water.

Fire officials said last night that the eatery suffered about $400,000 in damage and that six people who lived in the four apartments above the restaurant were driven from their homes.

''It was intentional," said Scott Salman, a spokesman for the Boston Fire Department. ''It was firebombed."

No arrests had been made by last night, and authorities said they did not know a motive. Salman said the Fire Department and police are looking for one suspect, whom they described as an Hispanic man, about 25 years old and 5-foot-9, who witnesses said wore black clothing and a red hat.

The owner of the restaurant said he had no idea who could be responsible.

''I've been in business in Jamaica Plain for 30-something years, and I've never had an enemy," said Nobel Garcia, 59, as water leaked from the doors of the entrance. ''When they told me that somebody threw something through the window, I said: 'Who could have done that?' I have never fought with anyone, or thrown anyone out.' "

Garcia vowed to reopen the restaurant, which was opened 13 years ago by Evaristo Cambara and his daughter Enia, who sold the restaurant to Garcia six years ago.

''All the neighbors have come by and given us sympathy," Garcia said. ''They lost their kitchen."

Tony Barros, an assistant to Mayor Thomas M. Menino who advises on Latino issues, said much more is gone.

''We are losing not only the physical structure, but the whole soul of the Cuban culture over there," said Barros, who lived in the neighborhood for about 25 years until last year.

The fire broke out about 3:30 a.m. A tenant in the building, a student studying at the time, said he heard a crash of glass and looked down from his window and saw a man wearing a baseball cap outside the restaurant, said Councilor at Large Maura A. Hennigan.

The tenant, whose name Hennigan did not know, told her that he saw smoke, smelled some kind of accelerant, and watched the man run down Paul Gore Street. ''He got everybody out and then started running after the guy," she said.

About 45 firefighters responded. Police said the suspect threw at least two objects into the restaurant.

Councilor John Tobin said he visited the restaurant about 11:30 a.m. after receiving a call about a fire ''of a very suspicious" nature.

''I encountered a big group of people walking around in stunned disbelief," said Tobin, who compared El Oriental to Cheers and Doyle's, a legendary political watering hole in Jamaica Plain. ''It's much more than a restaurant. It's a meeting place, a social gathering spot for a lot of people."

Last night neighbors were shocked.

''I feel like it's home for me," said Martine Bernard, 38, who had planned to stop in for a dinner last night. ''It's where I can get a home-cooked meal."

Rogelio Salas, 38, a native of Cuba who moved to Boston in 1995, said he was devastated by the restaurant's burning. ''I was more here than at home," he said. ''In the morning, I'd shower, come here, and have a coffee and talk with other Cubans."

Fernando Mercedes, president of the Hyde-Jackson Square Business Association, offered to help the restaurant rebuild. It was the first case of arson he could recall for one of the association's 87 members.

''This is something that I'm still very sad [about]," Mercedes said. ''We are working together, because we really want to bring back this business."

Jay Walsh, director of the Mayor's Office of Neighborhood Services, said workers from his office, the city's Inspectional Services Department and the city's business services office visited the restaurant to offer help.

''Our main objective is to try to get the business open as soon as possible," Walsh said.

Salman, of the Fire Department, said four tenants were relocated by the Red Cross, while the other two found their own places to stay for the night. Their apartments were not heavily damaged, he said.

The restaurant is the second Jamaica Plain landmark gutted by fire this year. In January, the First Baptist Church, a half mile away on Centre Street, was destroyed accidentally.

Reached in Miami, Enia Cambara, who originally owned the restaurant with her father, was stunned.

''We're not on bad terms with anybody," Cambara said in a phone interview, translated by her daughter

Esther Cespedes, 20, said she spent her childhood years hanging around the restaurant, helping serve signature dishes such as pollo guisado (stewed chicken), mofungo (mashed plantains with pork rinds and garlic), and ropa vieja (shredded beef in a sauce of peppers, tomatoes, and onions).

''It's really devastating," she said. ''I grew up there. It's just really painful."

Andrea Estes of the Globe Staff and Globe correspondent Lisa Fleisher contributed to this report. David Abel can be reached at dabel@globe.com.