In the capital, Doha, men jogged along the palm-lined corniche or did leg lifts against the backdrop of blue-green water. Women power-walked, swinging their arms under their long, black abayas.

The darkest feelings most people would admit to were a weariness with the longstanding threat of war, and sadness that it finally appeared inevitable.

Although the country's military bases are key to any attack, they are out of sight of most Qataris, whose government is busily strengthening relations with the United States but publicly plays down the presence of troops.

''They are nice people, quiet people. They don't want trouble,'' said Tarek Fikry, a native of Egypt. ''That's why they bring the Americans here - they don't want trouble with the Saudis.''

Leaving work at the Foreign Information Agency for the four-hour siesta that interrupts hazy afternoons here, Fikry turned down a radio commentator who was lambasting ''Amrikiya'' and popped in the music of James Brown.

But won't the war bring trouble? he was asked. Especially if people believe, as he does, that the United States is in it for oil?

''Nobody cares,'' he said, steering his white Mercedes between petunia beds and sand-colored towers as the Godfather of Soul exclaimed, ''Get up offa that thing!'' ''If they have enough to eat, to drink, they don't care.''