Tehran dispatch: "The revolution had begun."
Supporters of defeated Iranian presidential candidate Mir Hossein Mousavi run in the streets during protests Tuesday in Tehran. (Getty Images)
(A Tehran resident and journalist has been providing on-the-ground updates to the Globe's Washington Bureau since Iran's disputed presidential election last week. He filed this report after covering a mass protest on one of the Iranian capital's main thoroughfares. His name has been ommitted for his sagety.)
TEHRAN _ The noise of the crowd was the first thing to hit me. I had been among demonstrators before, but I had never actually heard an angry crowd before.
The noise was powerful and full of fury. As I approached the street, I distinguished what they were chanting: "mikosham, mikosham, aanke baradaram kosht: I shall kill, I shall kill, he who killed my brother."
My wife, who was among the crowd, had told me that several people had been killed by riot police. I quickened my pace and approached the street. As if in sync, hands bearing stones and bricks were pumping into the air. "I shall kill, I shall kill..." I burst into tears.
The next thing I noticed surprised me: the crowd did not consist of young men, but housewives, seniors, businessmen wearing suits, even children. There was blood on many of them. They were walking downhill towards the Interior Ministry, determined and in force. The wave that had taken over Iran and partied in the streets into the morning for the last few weeks was now an army on the move. As I stood in place trying to figure out what I was seeing, I noticed shopkeepers shutting down and joining the flock. People were also chanting on the sidelines, "down with the dictator," referring to Supreme Leader Ayatollah Khamenei, while the crowd chanted "join us proud Iranians, join us, join us." The crowd was growing by the moment.
I had walked with them for a few minutes when I saw the riot police in the distance. The crowd had managed to catch one of them and stones were raining down on him, and his head was beaten out of shape. His motorcycle was in flames in the middle of the road. As I passed the burning motorcycle, I noticed two more stacked on one another approximately 100 meters away, also burning. Bloodstains on the asphalt were abundant. I turned around and ran to my car to catch up at the Interior Ministry.
All of the routes to the ministry had been blockaded. Riot police were pouring in, armed with batons, rubber bullets, and tear gas canisters. I couldn’t drive any closer than half a mile from the Interior Ministry. Black smoke was rising from the approximate location of the Ministry. I had picked up my wife and a few friends we had by then, and we parked in an alley and set off towards the Ministry. Walking among the flocks of people, I noticed how quiet they were, and the fear that had covered everyone like a blanket. We walked past a police blockade; apparently pedestrians were free to move but cars were being kept out of the square.
We had been walking for approximately twenty minutes when we saw a flock of people running towards us. The noise of the revving motors of the riot police filled the street, and a group of maybe twenty of them could be seen in the distance approaching quickly. Batons raised and dropped, raised and dropped. We turned around and ran with the crowd. My wife turned into an alley, to distance herself from the incoming motorcycles. I screamed don’t go that way, as I assumed that we’d be safer if we didn’t break off from the flock. She kept running, and I ran after her.
A group of motorcycles turned into the street, beating the people left and right. I picked up my pace and ducked under a banner remaining from the elections. I turned and saw that my wife had fallen behind. A riot police motorcycle reached me and aimed for my legs with his baton. I jumped out of his path and sprinted down the street. Running with all my might, I reached the end of the alley and turned into the sidewalk on the main street; and found myself in the middle of a group of both riot police and so-called "Basijis" who were lashing out at whomever they could reach.
The Basij are the remnants of the voluntary forces that assisted the army during the Iran – Iraq war. Following the war, they maintained their organization and are known by all Iranians by their attire of white untucked shirt, long beard, and gray pants. Their unofficial role allows them to skirt the limits of the law, and they are usually responsible for the dirty work that officials prefer to avoid.
By means of luck or agility, I was able to avoid most of their blows, but was hit in the face by a chain-wielding Basiji. I realized that if I continued running in the same direction, I’ll be beaten by every single weapon being swung on the sidewalk, so I changed course and sprinted towards the street.
Once in the street, I was one of the many others fleeing the officers, and relatively safe. A truck passed filled with young men waving a green flag. I turned back into the alley, now relatively calm, looking for my wife. A boy in the street said that she got away without being harmed, as the men had shielded the women and the weaker ones with their bodies. I found her amongst a crowd shortly later and we managed to get back to our car without other incidents.
The city had been laid to ruin. Motorcycles and garbage dumpsters were burning at every corner. In Kuye Daneshgah Avenue, where the main dormitory of Tehran University is located, a bank had been set on fire. Most of the windows of the cars that passed us had been shattered.
At Parkway, which is a main intersection in Tehran, people had blocked the main routes to the intersection and were tearing down everything they could, from guardrails to billboards. The people lit fires on both sides of a pedestrian bridge over the highway and were flinging stones at a group of riot police that were stuck on the bridge. Tear gas was everywhere, and battles were going on between police and civilians at every corner.
In the early hours of the next morning we were on our way home when we saw that the road was blocked by a group of demonstrators -- women and men and children you’d see everyday walking down the street -- chanting “down with the dictator."
We stepped out of the car and joined them. A dumpster burst into flames next to me. The revolution had begun.
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Thank you for this inside peek into what's happening on the ground. People the world over are watching and hoping for the liberation of the Iranians. Keep up the good work!
That is amazing. Wow
We are with you, Iran
Um, wow.
Good thing we didn't invade Iran! I hoe they realize the crackjob their leader is and free themselves.
holy crap that is topete menutoleo real. dude...you brought your wife?
Go, green, go! Take inspiration from your neighbor. Iraq is showing that it is possible to be a Muslim state and still have a democratically-elected goverment. Muslims need not live under dictators!
To the many conservatives here in the USA saying that Obama is weak and like Chamberlain on the subject of Iran, read and learn. If we push too hard, we play into the Islam0-fascist hand by uniting the country AGAINST US. These people want freedom and the mullahs and dictator are now learning how much.
Should the average American care about this? Both jerks don't believe in Israel, hate the US and want nukes. One happens to be a bit me outspoken than the other. They both suck and are a threat to my children's generation in the US.
May God...be their great protector...in this their greatest "Time of Need". Freedom's coming, I can tell!
Wow! Did you hit the water pipe afterwards?
God speed and good fortune. Hold your family close and fight for the nation you want your children to inherit. My thoughts go with you.
this story is unbelivable. I can't believe that I am the first person to comment. If Iran goes alittle left, it will only help the situation in the middle east. Like East Germany,
I hope the time has come for real change. This could get interesting in the next few days.
Consider this. There have been free elections in Iraq for what, three or four years now? Freedom of speech and religion are part of the fabric of life now, in an area dominated by Islam. The people of Iran have seen this. How many of them wonder, why can't we have this? Did GW Bush plant the seed for the downfall of the Islamic Republic of Iran without firing a single shot? If that government falls, does anyone think that GW Bush will get the credit? Think about it. Something brought this on and the war in Iraq is the only event that has the power to do that.
It's unbelievable he is witnessing this. There is little information to be found in other major media outlets that is this detailed about the uprise in Iran. I hope he is getting paid very well for this. I hope he, his wife and the people of Iran the very best.
Harrowing story, filed at 4 in the afternoon EST, and still no comments here. This is surprising. Boston readers are usually engaged, and comment often when they have an opinion. But this is not about Bostonians. It is about foreign affairs. What we read here tonight, even though it is an engrossing story, shows us that new media is a much more acute and timely means of communication. My hope is that readers have not commented because they are following more recent updates. Better judgment tells me this is only half true. I will say that stories like this, as delayed as they might be, certainly paint a clearer picture of events than what is described breathlessly on Twitter. The media conundrum continues. Here's to the safety and liberty of all Iranians.
Late 1979 in reverse....the Supreme Ayatollah being the bad guy this time....
I hope this works out.....Iran's people are not the Devil.
well put, i wish i was there .
Good luck to the Iranian people as they fight for their freedom. Too bad we didn't do the same when the 2000 election was stolen here.
Amazing to live through this - hope it turns out Berlin Wall and not Tianannamen Square
I can only hope Mr. Shams is correct, and the liberals will prevail. The conservatives do have the heavy armaments -- that is, if the army will follow their commands.
Speaking of conservatives, I'd like to respond to some US rightists who have been accusing Obama of taking insufficient action to support the good guys in Iran. Can't everyone see that the last thing these Iranian rebels want is to be associated the United States? That just helps the Iranian government in its attempt to tar the rebels with being under the control of foreign enemies. We do much better as an example of a good society than we do when we move in and try to take charge. Obama's low-key approach is about right.
The ignorant comments of the Obamabots on this thread are incredible. Think people! Couldn't it be that your boy's round-the-world alienation of US allies, and his anti-Israel misrepresentations of Middle Eastern history in his Ich bin ein egomaniac speech in Cairo, just might have emboldened the attempted election theft in Iran.
Eh, if Obama saying a few words in support of the rebels will doom them by assocation with the evil USA; why doesn't Obama suggust that he supports the Iranian gov't as it is and doom them?
Um, yeah, ok Chas Simmons. Watch Obama take credit for it though when the Iranian people have done all the work themselves.
""Too bad we didn't do the same when the 2000 election was stolen here.""
No one kept you from doing something. LOL, sheep.
As for the Iranians, I hope your zeal can overcome the brutality which is sure to be visited upon you; the Mullahcracy will not fade away without a fight.
All people want to live free with self determination. The USA wishes the Iranian people well, may Freedom be in your future.
"18.Good luck to the Iranian people as they fight for their freedom. Too bad we didn't do the same when the 2000 election was stolen here.
Posted by Biscuitboy "
Hey moron, not one single recount ever, ever had Goracle leading in Florida. Find some new fiction to blab about. I'm just glad ACORN and the Black Panthers weren't there to intimidate and vote steal like in 2009.
And to the other Obama defenders. He is already the worst president ever, beating out Carter. Carter was weak on Iran in 1979 and Obama's being just as weak here in 2009. Poor Iranians, if only you'd acted sooner.
Great report, Mr. Shams, and stay safe--both you and your wife are extremely brave! The genie is out of the bottle--may God bless the Iranian people and lead them to freedom and victory over tyranny!
If we had a smart President, the CIA would be in Tehran organizing these protesters. But we have Obama (alas!)
I lived in Iran from 77 to 79 and witnessed their cry for independence then. I was just a 12 year old American girl but still understood their need for freedom. At 43, I pray for these people who still want a freedom from tyranny no matter who's wielding it. I pray for the safety of all of those good people. Most were a kind a loving group to us while we were there and I ached then as I do now for their hope and desire to live free. Keep up the strength to fight.
Obama's behavior has been shameful....as has Clinton's. It Carter redux.
Meanwhile good people in Iran are being murdered by their government who now know the US will not even raise our voice.
This is pointless, there will be no freedom for them until they remove the Mullahs, who are the real leaders of the country. Ahmadinajed and Mousavi are both puppets to what the Mullahs want. Realistically, Mousavi is not much different thatn Ahmadinajed. I don't mean to throw water on this but get serious people.
Democracy cannot exist in a theocracy, and that is what Iran is.
#20, the protesters on the streets ARE the conservatives, and the totalitarian ayatollahs are the leftist, fascist thugs who have oppressed them for the last 30 years. As far as Obama is concerned, he has given abundant evidence that he is a mealy-mouthed prevaricator, who won't say anything substantive until he sees who is going to win. You can call that a lot of things, but one thing it ISN'T is leadership.
#18, Gore is the one who tried to steal the election in Florida. Just because the outcome wasn't the one YOU wanted doesn't mean it wasn't the rightful outcome.
President Bush has said many times that the democracy of the Middle east was through Iraq...but BDS & the vile Big Media squashed that communication...
You yahews thinking this is Obama's doing are so delusional. He hasn't done a damn thing and you are already giving him credit for this. How frickin' stupid you all are! How utterly stupid!! Don't be surprised when this is all over, and no matter who wins, you have the status quo. Even moderates in Iran are hard liners. Mousavi was the original Ayatollah's Prime Minister. Not exactly a warm and fuzzy guy. Careful what you wish for.
I wish I could Fed-Ex a big crate of guns and ammo to the protesters. Guns will help. Down with the Islamic Thugocracy. Up with democracy.
The savagery of ayatollahs' and their hooligans is on full display thanks to Mr. Shams. If they do this to thier own people, one can imagine what they will do to others when they get the A-bomb. As long as the Supreme Leader, Revolutionary Guards, Bassij, and Council of Guardians exist in Iran, there won't by any possibility of reform and democracy. Already political demands of protestors are fast moving beyond Mousavi and his agenda which ultimately is to preserve the Islamic Republic. He wants presidency while people seek an end to the regime when they say "down with the dictator."
Awesome job of reporting. No matter what your feelings are in regards to Iran's election, this is a truly engaging and terrifying first person account of what's happening. Keep up the good work and be safe.
Obama had absolutely nothing to do with this. Seeing Iraqi's stepping up and voting in real elections has helped inspire them to revolt. More power to them.
"Good luck to the Iranian people as they fight for their freedom. Too bad we didn't do the same when the 2008 election was stolen here."
There, fixed that for you, Biscuitboy. Your 8 looked like a zero. ;)
I join you though in wishing good luck to the Iranians.
PEOPLE OF IRAN! Hang in there! Eventhough you haven't heard much from the governments around the world, especially the US government. We the people of the world are with you! For decades, all we Americans see are pictures of Iranians burning our flag in the streets. But now, we see that the people of Iran is no different from us. They've just been misrepresented by the propaganda news medias that's run by the dictators. U are now an inspiration to the world. By standing up for your rights, you've now set an example for the rest of the world. If the leaders are not working for the people, THROW THEM OUT! I am an Asian American. Thank you for setting the example my brothers and sisters of Iran! If need be, We'd be happy to be side by side with you in this struggle for FREEDOM!
I've been reading first hand accounts from Iran on Twitter and YouTube......it seems many, many young Iranians are questioning why Obama and Gordon Brown are not supporting their cause more and not speaking out more forcefully in their quest for freedom. Read for yourself the YouTube comments.
And don't think this isn't about their freedom.....these young people are sick and tired of the mullahs, militant Islam, dictators and say they were born into this horrible regime...and want it to change.
These voting irregularities are just an excuse for them to finally rise up!
They want to join the rest of the world and are trying to regain their place as proud Persians (not Arabs..as many have stated!).
Believe it or not, they are looking to the U.S. for support in this!
"Should the average American care about this? Both jerks don't believe in Israel, hate the US and want nukes. One happens to be a bit me outspoken than the other. They both suck and are a threat to my children's generation in the US.
Posted by chappaquiddick"
Yes, we should care about this. Stop being naive and selfish and try to gain a bit of perspective of the world for once instead of trying to shout down an interesting story.
I don't think we need to worry what Iran is doing. No matter what, Europe will still be mostly Islamic by 2040 anyway. So after they finish fighting amongst themselves, our traitor, dhimmi governments will likely allow them to join the EU, then move freely through the what remains of the Western world.
I think it is most likely that the dictator will win and this man and others like them will either be converted to the side of the dictator, killed, or go along with but secretly resent the dictator as the did before. The most brutal and ruthless party will win if there is no outside help. Obama will not help. If we had a conservative in the white house the CIA could be helping with organization and the smuggling of weapons. The left in the past has called such activity the "evil meddling" of the "imperialist" USA. Now you will see that helping people remove their chains of bondage was never "evil". It is and always has been the noble conduct of a noble people , the same as helping someone resist a beating of a mugger. The obama foreign policy is best characterized as the "Kitty Genovese" doctrine. Stand by, do nothing and let the brutality continue. It is based in both cowardice and a feeling of kinship with the brutal party.
Type your comment here..."The tree of liberty must be refreshed from time to time with the blood of patriots and tyrants. It is its natural manure." Thomas Jefferson 1787
When shall we here in the USA shed the dictatorial oligarchs ruining/running our country? When shall we wake up as the Iranians and reclaim our true freedom and liberty? The greatest enemies of freedom are not in Afghanistan, Iran, or North Korea--the greatest enemies to freedom and liberty are in Washington, D.C., our state capitals and our local governments--they call themselves Democrats and Republicans. Slaves who believe they are free are easily controlled--wake up Americans! Iran has the right idea.
Why is Obama silent? He used ACORN to register dead people, fake people, stuff ballot boxes, accept illegal campaign donations from foreign sources, turned off the credit card filters so they couldn't be traced, have his cronies vote in multiple states, illegal-aliens voting, felons voting, hiding his "real" birth certificate, hiding his college transcripts showing "foreign student" status, hiding his student loan cancelled check to a Saudi who funded his education, etc. He has more in common with the President who stole the election than every average "citizen" American. This usurper will be impeached when someone with integrety and honesty uncovers his fraud. Why is he spending millions of dollars in legal fees to hide all of this?
This is what Iraqis needed to do against Saddam instead of us sending our kids to die. Maybe they'll all realize that we could care less what they do if they'd just get up and fight for liberty!