From the ashes, La Fenice returns

To Venetians and opera lovers throughout the world, the 18th century theater represents the soul of this unique lagoon city, and its resurrection from the ashes -- Fenice means phoenix -- was cause for celebration across Italy.

"The Great Fenice Theater is given back to Italy and the world!" Venice Mayor Paolo Costa declared at the start of the performance. "And the music announces to us that the nightmare is over."

Fans lined up throughout the day to admire the newly polished marble facade, with the Fenice (pronounced feh-NEE-chay) symbol, a gilded phoenix, hanging in the entranceway.

"We are all happy to see the Fenice the way it was," said Stella Marchisello, a cashier in a fast-food restaurant down the street.

With so many VIPs in town for the opening, security was tight yesterday afternoon, with carabinieri paramilitary police patrolling Venice's fog-shrouded Grand Canal and the narrow streets and bridges.

Riccardo Muti conducted the Fenice orchestra and chorus in Sunday night's inaugural concert, which featured Ludwig van Beethoven's fitting overture, "Consecration of the House," as well as works by composers whose lives were touched by Venice.

He received at least three curtain calls and a standing ovation at the end of the two-hour concert, and in comments to the audience at its conclusion, said, "I want to express a wish for culture in our country, that it always be upheld, aided, and protected."

Muti conducted at the Fenice for the first time in 1970 at the beginning of his musical career, and hosted the Fenice orchestra and chorus at Milan's La Scala right after the 1996 fire.

President Carlo Azeglio Ciampi, seated in the royal box, was at the head of a jet-set guest list of European royalty and Italian movers and shakers. Many dressed to the nines for the occasion in black tie and long gowns. This being a city of canals and tiny bridges, they all had to get to the theater on foot.

"When I came after the fire, there was such despair," said Princess Michael of Kent, whose Venice in Peril organization donated the theater's gilded new chandelier. "Tonight is exhilarating."

Konstantin Becker, a French horn player in the orchestra for 14 years, recalled his emotions upon returning to the reborn theater for rehearsals. "After so many years of exile, I felt at home again," he said.

The performance also included works by Stravinsky, Caldara, and Wagner. Muti began the program with the Italian national anthem.