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Darkness in the City of Light

Posted by pnealon  June 24, 2010 11:38 AM
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Hawkers display their wares at the base of the Eiffel Tower.

Elizabeth Pereira recently graduated from Thayer Academy. She will enter the University of Southern California in the fall.

With only three days in Paris, our school group immediately set off on a frenzy of non-stop sightseeing. And while every sight was unique and breathtaking in its own way, some things remained constant: the aggressive men selling cheap trinkets, the homeless beggars, the pickpockets.

Is this the dark side of the City of Light?

We know Paris as a metropolis of magic, home to iconic images of lovers kissing atop the Eiffel Tower. But as we arrive at the fabled monument, momentarily agape as we stare up at one of the world's most celebrated structures, an uglier image intrudes. "Five for one Euro, girls, Five for one Euro,'' came the increasingly familiar refrain in heavily-accented English.

A man selling mini Eiffel Tower key chains literally stuffed five into my hand. “For free,” he exclaimed as he forced my clenched fist open. I finally took them. “OK, now you pay me one euro.” At that point, my aggressive-when-crossed personality kicked in and I tossed the key chains back and stormed off.

Before reaching the entrance gate, there are a half-dozen more keychain peddlers I must dodge.

Another time, an elderly woman holding a sign approached a friend and asked, “Do you speak English?” After he responds that he does, she proceeds to push her sign into his face. It says that she is from a foreign country and has no family or money and desperately needs help.

I then learned that when asked if I spoke English to simply respond no, and quickly walk away.

While sitting on a bench next to the Eiffel Tower, after being approached by no less than six men selling key chains, I start to get angry again.

But things are put into perspective when my teacher buys a keychain from a man for two euro. “I could have got it for one, but the man needs to make a living.” And then it makes sense.

Paris attracts millions of visitors every year. And tourists like me stick out. So it makes sense that poor Parisians would flock to the most visited sights to try to make a few Euros.

On a short trip to one of the most romantic cities in the world, I learned something. Paris is not all glamour and romance.

To learn how you can contribute to Passport, email Patricia Nealon at pnealon@globe.com

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About Passport Dispatches from Boston-area residents as they travel the world.
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