In a great touch, the lobster dress was reimagined as a clutch bag.
Lacroix was chosen as a one-off designer, and the house is still to name an artistic director.
IRIS VAN HERPEN
Wild nature was in the spotlight for Dutch wunderkind Iris Van Herpen, who produced a typically organic-infused couture display for fall-winter.
The show venue—among the pillared architecture of the neoclassical science museum—lent itself well to explorations of organisms and exoskeletons that ran through the 11 creations.
The twist this season was a neat fusion with Japanese styles. That featured nicely, for example, on a bronze kimono dress with round, large arms in the shape of a moth. Here, scratched detailing evoked the feeling of a perforated cocoon.
The piece de resistance had to be an incredible oval dark gray mini dress that, in its intricate hard ruffles, teaming sinews and un-human shape, looked like a work of abstract sculpture.
There was a feeling, however, that Van Herpen is having trouble moving forward creatively from her organic themes — though finely executed, two exoskeletal sheath dresses felt a little like a rehash of old-styles.
Thomas Adamson can be followed at Twitter.com/ThomasAdamsonAP