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HANDYMAN ON CALL | PETER HOTTON

To be safe, call garage door repairman

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July 20, 2008

Q. My garage doors are 50 years old, and one of the springs broke. I can buy a new one, but how can I determine what size to buy? And can I install it myself?

TRAPPED IN MY GARAGE

A. One way is to take off the spring and bring it to a store to assure getting the right replacement. Can you put in a spring yourself? There has been controversy over that ever since automatic doors were developed. One side says certainly, you can handle it. The other side advises not to, because there are considerable hazards involved, particularly heavy springs under tension, a real danger to someone who is unfamiliar with the opener. The handyman falls on the latter side of the argument, suggesting you call the store or an overhead-door dealer.

Door openers are like appliances, best left to those who know them inside and out. A house call is expensive, but worth it to fix the problem without mangling an arm or losing an eye. To give you an idea of how careful the handyman is concerning appliances, here's a short story: When my dishwasher developed a smell like plastic burning, I assumed it was a fire in the motor, and called my appliance dealer, who happened to be George Washington Toma of Weymouth, who sent a repairman, who opened the washer's bottom panel and pulled out a half-burned plastic lid that had slid down during one wash cycle. Five minutes and $105 later, I was home free. If I had investigated myself, I might have found the culprit. But that doesn't matter; I paid my money, solved the problem safely, and went to bed content.

Q. When my son bought a house, he discovered that some of the windows were painted shut. They just don't budge. How can he open them and make them workable again?

HEMMED IN

A. The painter got too enthusiastic and used too much paint on the windows and frames, or closed them too soon, effectively sealing the joints between sash and frame. Some paint may have gotten between sash and jamb, making matters worse. It might be possible, if the windows are tilt-out, to angle them, breaking the paint bond. Better yet, go outside and cut the paint film where the sash and frame meet, using a utility knife. Then jiggle the sash back and forth, and start to raise it. Or tilt it out, if that's possible. Or you can take it out bodily to check the edges. If there is paint on them, or on the jambs, you may be able to scrape or wipe it off. There should be no paint left on them. When you can move the windows and they are still a bit stiff, rub the edges with wax.

Q. My hardwood floors are varnished with a water-based polyurethane. Some sunblock was dropped on the floor, and stained the area. How can I remove that? Also, my daughter drew pictures on my leather car seats with a ballpoint pen. How can I clean them?

JIM ECKENRODE, Newton

A. Check the sunblock bottle to see if there is any information on washing it off. Many of these products are water soluble, so try using water on the floor; it will not hurt the finish. Or try paint thinner or rubbing alcohol. For the pen markings, alcohol is the solvent for ballpoint ink - not gin but rubbing alcohol.

Q. My kitchen is in pretty bad shape, mainly because there is some old contact paper on the shelves, and it simply will not come off. I have tried so many things, and the paper will not budge. What can I do?

TONY MOBAYED, Dedham

A. That is the "old" contact paper, and I had some similar stuff, so I know it is the very devil to take off. But do not despair, you can succeed with a lot of work. First, try working up several inches of the paper, enough to grab with both hands, then pull it up; some will come off with effort. You can try to soften the glue under the paper by using paint thinner or rubbing alcohol. With the paper off, some glue will remain, but it can usually be softened with rubbing alcohol. An alternative is to put "new" contact paper over the shelves. It will come off as easy as pie.

Q. I would like to blow insulation in the walls of my old house that has some rock wool, but which has settled. One man, for $4,000, will drill holes in the clapboards, blow in insulation, then plug the holes. Another man, for $6,000, will remove or cut the clapboards, drill holes in the sheathing underneath, blow in insulation, then replace the clapboard or, if it is broken, put on a new one. What should I do?

BRIAN

A. First, make sure the insulator fills the cavity, because no one knows how much the rock wool has settled. Also, have him add insulation to the attic floor and to the basement ceiling, if that is possible. As for who to choose, pick the $6,000 man, who will remove a clapboard before drilling holes. The other man, who would drill through a clapboard and then patch it, is doing you no favors. He is an insulator, not a patcher. His patches will stand out like sore thumbs, and your house will look like a polka-dotted bikini.

Q. My condo is 30 years old and has a beautiful sheet vinyl floor with black and white squares. We like it a lot, but recently the white squares have developed a pinkish stain that nothing will remove - not bleach, not store cleaners, not Mr. Clean Magic Eraser. Is there anything that will work?

UPSET IN CHICOPEE

A. The things you tried are designed to treat the surface of the vinyl, so I think the stains are in the vinyl itself, and I don't know what can be done, if anything. You could call a manufacturer of vinyl products, such as Armstrong or Mannington, who might be able to offer some explanation.

Q. I have an odd problem. My refrigerator suddenly, randomly, makes a crashing sound, which is startling to say the least. It is not related to anything I can determine, and nothing inside has fallen. The dealer (Maytag) is stumped. Do you have any ideas? You are my last resort.

MARY, Belmont

A. Here's one for the Maytag serviceman, who usually has time on his hands. The handyman has two stabs in the dark. First, the sound may be the compressor or air circulator coming on. It is my understanding that they do not run steadily, and sometimes that start up can be fairly loud. Secondly, the air circulator fan may be hitting the metal housing as it starts, but quiets down when it gets up to speed. My Amana makes some pretty weird noises, but not loudly enough or frequently enough to be alarming. Does anyone "out there" have a different idea? Or a better one? Mary would love to know.

Q. We are having an ongoing dispute with our central-air-conditioning guy. We have nine windows, 30-by-60 inches, all with outside awnings and inside blinds. We think the awnings keep the house cooler because the sun does not hit the window glass. The air-conditioning guy says the blinds do a better job. We like the awnings better because we still can see outdoors and the indoor plants get better light. What is your opinion?

MATHE CROTEAU, by e-mail

A. There are many kinds of blinds. A thermal shade that blocks off all air and light will do a better job than others, but it is not easy to live with the darkened house that results. Anything less is a compromise. Any difference that blinds may make vs. awnings is not enough to argue about, or to make much difference in your bill. So keep the awnings and enjoy the view, and let the plants enjoy themselves.

Globe Handyman on Call Peter Hotton is also in the Styles Section on Thursdays. He is available 1-6 p.m. Tuesdays to answer questions on house repair. Call 617-929-2930. Hotton also chats online about house matters 2-3 p.m. Thursdays. To participate, go to Boston.com Hotton's e-mail is photton@globe.com.

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