Q. I have removed the gutters from most of my roof edges and put in Yankee gutters where I needed to keep rainwater from inundating people waiting at my doorway. I am happy with this situation.
I left a gutter in place along a shed dormer, above the roof of my three-season porch. The downspouts of the gutter deliver rainwater down the porch roof. I was wondering if I could get rid of that gutter after it breaks down, and let the water drip onto the porch roof. Would that work?
BRYAN BUTLER, Newburyport
A. I think it will, although the dripping water could create a sort of trough in the asphalt shingles, wearing them out prematurely. So, to prevent that, install a wide aluminum flashing at the top of the roof, which would resist wear and tear from the dripping water.
If you can't stand the ding-ding-ding of water dripping on the aluminum (some people actually complain about that), you can instead put down a deep-pile AstroTurf type strip of carpet to deaden the sound and prevent bouncing, so the water will go flump-flump-flump.
Q. I am fixing up an old house, and I plan to put up crown molding made of MDF (medium density fiberboard). They already are cut with mitered ends, so they can be fit into corners. But what if the corners are not square? How can I handle that? Also, how to handle outside corners as well? And finally, how can I put up that molding? Nails or glue?
JOE C., Grafton, N.Y.
A. Crown molding is elegant, a good finishing touch to a room, but very tricky to install. I think it is light enough to put up with an adhesive, specifically Liquid Nails, and I think I got some information recently that the company has a quick-set Liquid Nails which will work even better than the old version. At least the adhesive will avoid nail holes.
If the mitered ends fit fairly well, then that is the way to go. If they don't fit, you can always fill in the gaps with an adhesive caulk, but you cannot do that if the molding is a wood tone. Otherwise it can be painted.
The other way to handle inside corners is by coping: Miter one end and then cut the end square with a coping saw, which can turn tight corners. Following the edge of the mitered end will shape the end to exactly fit into the curves of the molding that you put up on the abutting wall.
Outside corners can be handled, I think, by mitering the ends. Again, if there are any gaps they can be filled with an adhesive caulk.
Q. I have two center chimneys whose bricks are turning to dust. How can I fix that little problem?
DESPERATE
A. Yes, it is a problem, and it is not a little one. The only cure if they are really and truly turning to dust is to rebuild the chimneys from the attic floor to the very top above the roof. Unless you know something about laying brick, this is best left to a mason. This would also be a good time to put a flue liner in the chimneys.
Q. My two-story garrison had two layers of shingles on the roof, so I had them taken off and a new layer put on, but with a 6-foot ice and water shield installed on the edge of the roof under the shingles. I also had a ridge vent installed, and also aluminum ice panels along the edges. Wouldn't you know, I am getting ice dams and leaks through the roof. What should I do?
BOB KING, North Andover
A. You did everything right, except perhaps putting in soffit vents. Such a vent, going the full length of the soffit (underpart of the overhang), will, or at least should, make a big difference in keeping the roof cold, by providing a continuous flow of air into the attic through the soffit vents and up and out through the ridge vent. If you have gable vents, ventilation experts suggest closing them because they interfere with the flow of air from soffit vents to ridge vent.
Q. My beautiful Waterford crystal salt shaker has a pull-off (not screw top) metal cap that has frozen on, and no amount of work will take if off. I have tried soaking it in water, even using a rubber gripper pad and pliers to pull off the cap. I think it is the salt that caused the freeze, because the pepper shaker cap comes off very easily. You are my last resort. I don't want to ruin that nice cap, either. Waterford sent me a new cap, but it is too big.
FRAN CALABRO, Winchester
A. Ah, what price glory. And the heavy weight of responsibility. You did everything I can suggest, but try soaking it longer. Or, soak it in white vinegar. Or, make a half-and-half solution of ammonia and water which might seep between the cap and glass. Finally, bring out the big guns:
I do not suggest the old trick of separating glasses by dipping the outer glass in hot water and ice cubes in the inner glass because I am afraid of breakage. If anything broke, my name would be mud.
Q. I tried your trick of killing fruit flies by putting out a bowl of vinegar with a bit of detergent, but it did not work. Maybe I put the trap too close to the kitchen drain, where the flies seem to be coming from. Should I use a different kind of vinegar?
STILL FIGHTING
A. If you used white vinegar, it might not have been fruity enough. Next time use cider or wine vinegar, even though neither cider nor wine is citric. And keep the trap away from the sink drain. Flies coming out of the drain are called, amazingly, drain flies, but I think they are fruit flies. To get rid of them, pour a cup of bleach in the drain and leave it overnight. Repeat as necessary.
Q. My storm door froze to the threshold so hard that I had to use another door to come and go. How can I keep that from happening? I was afraid I would break it if I used brute force.
And here is a tip for you: To keep from tangling all up in your leaf blower and other tools with long cords, curl the cord in one of those big paper shopping bags with handles, and pay out and wind in the cord as you go along.
ANONYMOUS
A. First, thanks for the tip. You could also use one of those cloth totes that we are now using to carry out groceries.
As for the frozen storm door, spray WD-40 to loosen it. Or, let it thaw out. Then spray a bit of WD-40 on the threshold to try to prevent further freezing.
Globe Handyman on Call Peter Hotton is also in g on Thursdays. He is available 1-6 p.m. Tuesdays to answer questions on house repair. Call 617-929-2930. Hotton also chats online about house matters 2-3 p.m. Thursdays. To participate, go to www.boston.com. Hotton's e-mail is photton@globe.com.
